Wow that low mount looks really good! I want that!!

 

Get with Danyelle, I'm sure she can acquire a set from Osaka. I was looking more for the functionality of it, but it's a win and win as it also looks much better to my eyes as well.

 

Definitely like the low mount better, flows with the body and like you said more aerodynamic

 

I concur...that J's low bracket and spoiler look way better!

I like the shift knobs you chose...only my OCD won't let me run a 6-spd knob on a 5-spd car =/

 

Hahaha thanks, well I would never do that either. Mine has been changed out for a 6MT using a hybrid of Fit and CR-Z gearing. In fact, I had (well still have) a Honda t-shirt with the 6MT gear pattern on it that I stopped wearing for years after I sold the AP2 Snisen.

 

Managed to fit a 51r battery today without modding or cutting anything. Starts up in -20 now better than it did when it was new and in the summer

 

I really would like to see picture of your install!

 

well

So is it a CR-Z trans? huh? I'm lost...where can I find more? you have a thread? That is very intriguing and sounds like it'll help with the poor stock fit gearing. Being at 4k at 80mph is fine for me as the Tanabe and Intake actually toned it down....but some say it get old.

 

Heres a couple pics. I probably couldve used the oem bracket but its -20 outside and windy so i just used the bungee which was 10xeasier to install. It does the job well as the battery is very secure with the old shake test. Did not shift at all after a few hours of driving either.

Also because of the awkward position, i couldnt manage to slide the + terminal completely on. But it didnt seem to affect anything performance wise.
Having 500 cca is really nice. I could tell the engine was stiff to turn over but the new battery muscled through it with ease after sitting out in -20 all night

 

So if you weren't running the OEM intake...would you get better fitment of the POS+ terminal?

 

Yes, or you can cut a small notch out of the side of the oem intake and it will fit almost perfectly. It was just way too cold to sit in my garage and do any cutting, plus im taking the battery out in a few months anyway.

 

It is using the GE8 RS 6MT casing with a mix of the 2 RS GE8 5MT (1-3) 6MT (4-5) and CRZ 6th with the 6MT final of 4.62 (same final that you have).

In order to lower your revs, you either need to change out your final to the CRZ (4.11) or 5MT RS (4.29) or swap to the CRZ 6th (.688) in place of your 5th (.727) or a combination of the above. With the 4.29 final at 80 the revs should drop to about 3500 from around 3780 and to about 3550 with the CRZ 6th as your 5th. Using the GE8 RS 4.29 final in combination with the CRZ 6th should see revs at about 3300 and CRZ 6th and final to about 3175.

Really all depends on how you use your car, I wanted as close ratio as I could get using stock parts, I was gear limited to just 205km/h (127mph) before the change to a 6MT and now in theory I would be limited to 246km/h (153mph) though that is not happening as the car doesn't have enough power to overcome the wind drag.

 

I only ask because...I do not have the OEM intake anymore

Cant wait for your progress pics. Also your bB show up yet?

 

Yeah its in vancouver now going through customs as we speak

Install begins in a month, but i get home in 10 days and ill be doing a bunch of photo shoots with my fit and all the front end parts laid out in front of it! Cant wait to have a stubby fit

 

Question about TPMS and the VSA (Traction control)

I am looking to buy of set of track only wheels and have heard that once the ECU recognizes there aren't any TPMS sensors it won't allow you to disable the VSA (Traction control) which is bad thing for Autocross.

My question is, how long before the TPMS realize they aren't synced anymore? Miles? certain Speed?
If I arrive at the track with my Daily (tpms) wheels and switch over to my track (no tpms) wheels is there a grace period where I can deactivate the VSA before the ECU recognizes that they are no longer installed? A typical autocross day is maybe 5 miles at most.

The only other option I have read about is cloning the original TPMS onto programable sensors so when you switch out wheels the ECU still think they are the same wheels. Its the most reliable method but at the cost of 4 ($50) dollar sensors and a trip to a tire specialist its the most expensive.

 

I need to replace the little orange light in the top corner of the left headlight (which blink when you lock/unlock doors).
Anyone know if it is just a twist and lock socket?
Tried to twist it gently (gently because it's really cold outside and don't want to break it), but it wouldn't move...

EDIT: Nevermind, found the answer myself. Here is the link: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/H...acement-Guide/

 

Yeah that one is a pain in the ass. Twisting with a pair of pliers makes it easier.

 

oil change and wintermode today. #yawn

 

3 months away from having my fit for 5 years now and i finally bought new wipers today lol.

 

Finally my light came back from the dead...
Maybe the fact that I disconnected and reconnected the connector?