Well, I like the Tritons because it bring back my DRL function, but I just don't like the fact that due to Honda Flasher non replaceable design, we are stuck with resistor to prevent hyperflashing for turn signal, and that mean no energy saving... plus that resistor run very hot that it need to be installed on a metal parts (not close to wire/plastic)...

The T10... do you mean the front parking light,
I like it since it is brighter (Amber), but not make the light housing become amber in color when it is off, plus of course the electric energy saving...
I need all the energy saving I can get in preparation for future Audio System plus future Aquamist Water Meth Injection system...

 

I see. My resistor doesnt get hot, maybe a little warm. I wonder if thats normal. I would certainly feel comfortable mounting mine on plastic. I think youre still saving power vs stock signal though.

Oh good, so its a lot brighter than the stock t10 bulb?

 

It is only warm if you use it for normal use, like 1 minute waiting for light to turn green for left hand turn...
but if for example you had a flat tire, or emergency situation and turn your hazard light for like 20 minutes... then it will get very very hot...
on the webite VLEDS said their resistor is rated to 250 Faranheit...
they also specify if you use 3ohms resistor for 1 resistor replicating two bulb front and rear (I use 6ohms), it will get very hot that their high strength adhesive will not work anymore... and you had to use bolt/screw (which I already did anyway, use bolt)...
VLEDS had warning about the danger of this resistor if not installed properly..., if you install yours on a plastic, you really need to relocate it before it cause damage...
I mean, imagine, if somehow you have flat tire, turn on your hazard, change your tire on the side of the road in a remote facility for about 30 minutes,
and right after you finish changing your tire and ready to drive...
then next thing you notice is your car is on fire...


now regarding the power drain,
the resistor and VELD triton combo actually take more power...
the Phillips LED is 3 watt each x 6 = 18 watts per Triton bulb...
but since only 3 LED are amber ,that mean only 9 watts.
the 6 ohms resistor mean about 25 watts (2 amperes),
that mean it actually consume 9 + 25 watts = 34 watts per triton bulb... not to mention, the control module also must consume little power... while the regular factory bulb only consume 21 watts...

I notice that my turn signal actually flash slower now... then when it was on OEM filament bulb, this must be because the triton consume more power... well, at least it is brighter

the only alternative for me is buying this unit:
///IPF FLAT LES for DRL ML-06




After careful consideration...
I decide not to but the above IPF DRL LED set, because I just prefer the OEM look with the DRL integrated in the main headlight housing... plus those LED no matter how thin, will interfere with the flow of cool air into my oil cooler/radiator... and I had done a lot of detail modification to increase this airflow, so I am not going to let some LED light reduce the air flow no matter how small hahaha,
that is why VLED Triton is my only choice...

 

remove the resistor. it doesn't hyperflash. i took mine out after i discovered this.

 

Wow, this is good to know,
I will try it, Thanks Ryu...

 

By the way, Ryu,

Your VLED Triton is also a switchback version right? (or is it a regular NON switch back?)
and you use it for your front turn signal and DRL function right?

How about the rear?
Do you have an LED bulb for the REAR turn signal too or just regular filament bulb?
If you have LED bulb for the REAR turn signal, may I know what brand/model?
and did you use resistor for the REAR turn signal LED bulb?

 

Bmw, it sounds like you have a resistor and control box at the same time, this unnecessary like ryu suggests. I have had my control boxes mounted to the back of the rad support with VHB tape for 4 years now and its had zero problems. They dont get hot, just a little warm even after 10 minutes of running. Perhaps the switchback box gets hotter, but my rear switchbacks are also mounted with vhb tape on the metal behind my taillights, they have not fallen off or broken either.

If you remove the resistor, it will cut your power usage down. My bulbs flash at the normal stock rate so it sounds like your resistance is too high anyway.

About the power usage, did VLEDs say the phillips rebel leds are actually running at 3W each? Im pretty sure they arent running at full power because if you look at the phillips rebel spec sheet, the amber LEDs are rated for over 200 lumens each. But the triton bulb is only rated for around 480 lumens total with three rebel bulbs. They probably did that to keep the heat and power usage down. Plus at 480lm, its already more than bright enough.

 

Well, after a three week hospital stay, I've found that the batter in my '12 5/MT Sport has died! Four years, 6 months it lasted!! Now will start the search for a 51R to replace it. So far, It looks like Sam's Club/Duracell w/ 500CCA is the potential winner, unless someone with more experience has a better suggestion? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

That's the best way
Same as what I did and its lasted ages

 

same setup as Connor. Switchbacks front and back.

 

Hmmm...
I just test on my car,
so my car had Front Triton Turn Signal/DRL Switchback and Conventional 21watt filament bulb at the rear.

First I took out the rear turn signal bulb, (imitating a fail bulb) and the turn signal HYPER Flash right away.

So I put the rear turn signal bulb back, and this time I took out the FRONT resistor, and the same thing happened, HYPER Flash again...

but of course I don't have a Triton Switchback at the rear...
ok... perhaps I will gamble and just buy a Triton or some cheap LED bulb to test it first at the rear turn signal...

Ok, Thanks Ryu and Connor for your tips

 

Is that a RHD scion/toyota bB?

 

^yes sir! Could not be more excited about getting later this year. Heres a couple pics at the shipyard in japan. (Sorry wont spam too many non fit pics here lol)

 

What are the laws in Canada regarding RHD cars? I know that you can't drive them here in the states because they don't meet collision or emission standards here. But I take it thats not the case in Canada?

 

Basically, if its over 15 years old you can import almost anything lol. Its huge business here. It will still have to pass provincial inspection before i can register it, but its in such good shape due to japanese "shaken" that im not at all worried. I just need to add drls for it to pass.

 

You cannot do that anymore in Quebec... Laws have changed here and RHD cars are prohibited unless 25 years old or older. (or unless you registered your 15 years old vehicle before laws changed)

 

That sucks. It might be trickier to drive RHD at first, but shouldnt take too long to get used to it.

 

First reason why laws changed is because in a RHD car, you cannot see when you want to pass someone since we drive in the right lane...

 

I dont agree with that. If you shoulder check, you will be fine. Making left turns might feel awkward at first, but many people have gotten used to it.

 

I had developed some serious rub issues up front. The car was just was just way to low. Although I liked how it looked, I really prefer to be more functional and drive spirited around twisty roads.

So I finally got out there and raised up the front a significant amount from where it was. No more rubbing and so much more fun to drive now! The Dunlop Direzza ZII star spec tires are super sticky! It really showed me how unsupportive our stock seats are. I was getting thrown around lol

Excuse the filth, it desperately needs a bath.