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I used silicone grease on the o rings. I think what happened Is i had a hard time getting the unit back together so In order to get it to go back together I had to force the supercharger and manifold together. I'm guessing an oring slipped and got crushed. I'll have to figure it out before I re install it. I reached out to sprintex about the seals. Hopefully they will respond and it won't be to bad.
that's weird about the ebrake. We have cold winters here and that hasn't happened to me before.
Well, I’ve had my Fit for 8 years, and it never happened before either. As I said, there was heavy rain that changed into heavy snow. It was during the heavy rain, I had to drive through a bunch of puddles. So I’m sure water got into the brake drums and ebrake. It just, because of the immediate change, that water never got a chance to dry out.
Yeah, it looks like the glue failed and the very end piece of the coil pack is in the cylinder head. I pulled the coil pack up and thought... some looks off, took a few seconds to confirm in my head I wasn’t just seeing things.
Now, I’m buying new coil packs along with a pick or something to try and get it out, as pushing the original in and out couldn’t get it to catch. Another alternative is a really long needle nose plier.
That's super shitty. I have no clue what could cause a coil pack to break like that other than age or heat. Idk I would pull the head and install thread inserts to all the sparkplug threads. And then replace all the coil packs.
That's super shitty. I have no clue what could cause a coil pack to break like that other than age or heat. Idk I would pull the head and install thread inserts to all the sparkplug threads. And then replace all the coil packs.
I don't know if the age of a few months after the spark plug initially came loose is enough, but I'm pretty sure the heat of the escaping exhaust gas would be.
I may end up going the route of the threaded inserts, but that requires down time of the only car I have. And I need this car up and running as much as possible as I do deliveries with it. Borrowing my sister's Town&Country annoys me to no end and though she has another SUV, it's a bit awkward driving a Mercedes to do deliveries.
In addition, neither the mechanic I normally use nor the dealership want to do anything that messes with the supercharger, so I'll need to find a shop that is willing.
So, for the time being, I'm gonna see how it goes with my next attempt.
Yeah,I totally understand that. My fit is my only car too. But I don't use it for work. I'm just worried that as you keep having the plug ejected it could do more damage to the cylinder head. Idk if that's possible but a new head is expensive. If you have towing coverage, could you possibly take the supercharger off and then get it towed to the shop and then have them do the inserts? I understand a regular shop not wanting to touch the supercharger for liability reasons.
If you get a few days off would you be able to pull the head yourself and install the inserts your self? It's not too hard just need a tap and a few other tools..
I hope you can get it figured out. It sucks going through these problems. At least ge8 engines are cheap lol that's what I tell myself when I'm working on mine.
Replaced the stock mini-battery in my GE8 Fit with a 51R size battery.
Fit right in with no mods needed. A year ago, I changed my intake to an HPS short intake, which gave the bigger battery plenty of room.
Received the last of the stuff I ordered online...
- Pick set to try and get the loose end of the old coil pack.
- Set of new coil packs... is that white powdery stuff supposed to be there? I thought I got used packs at first, but one of the four came from a different seller, so I find that unlikely.
- Set of new spark plugs. Yes, going back to the factory specs. Just FYI, the Sprintex install calls for factory plugs, not colder. I used the colder as an experiment... and honestly speaking, something weird was going on immediately after installing them, so I'll stick with "tried & true." After all, I had factory plugs (not just OE, but the original) with the Sprintex for four years and some 65k miles.
- Rethreader & insert set to replace the threads for cylinder #2. I can only hope this works.
- Loctite 271 to hold the insert... hopefully.
- Grease and grease gun to stuff onto the rethreader in the hopes of catch bits of metal before they fall into the cylinder.
- Gear oil for the Sprintex, since I didn't have any to do the oil change for it when I did my last oil change.
Unfortunately, I won't be doing any of it until next week. The loctite requires some 24 hrs to cure, so to give it the best shot, I plan on doing the work on Monday morning (my day of the week off) and let it cure into Tuesday. I couldn't do it today, because I had no idea when the parts would arrive.
I'm not looking forward to doing this. Biggest reason is because the spark plugs are on the backside of the engine, where I can't see and barely have room to work with.
Couple of thoughts:
Grease will be difficult to clean up before using the loctite, and will likely inhibit the effectiveness of the loctite if any remains, and it may just hold the (now greasy) metal fragments in the cut threads.
Maybe skip the grease and use a vacuum with a small hose that you can fit down the spark plug hole to extract any shards of aluminum?
Is loctite recommended by the thread insert manufacturer? I've only used Helicoils (not for spark plugs either) and those didn't call for adhesive.
Couple of thoughts:
Grease will be difficult to clean up before using the loctite, and will likely inhibit the effectiveness of the loctite if any remains, and it may just hold the (now greasy) metal fragments in the cut threads.
Maybe skip the grease and use a vacuum with a small hose that you can fit down the spark plug hole to extract any shards of aluminum?
Is loctite recommended by the thread insert manufacturer? I've only used Helicoils (not for spark plugs either) and those didn't call for adhesive.
Honestly, the insert set is a bit "3rd party" (there's something about buying a part/repair tool that isn't made by the company that made the original part)... rather, more like 3rd party knockoff. And I did find the tiny ass instructions (seriously, who uses 2-4 pt font?!?)... it does call for threadlocker.
As for the grease, yeah, I've been thinking about it... I do have a bottle of brake cleaner. I'll do a test before anything, applying grease on something and see if spraying it with brake cleaner will clear it off. I may try some brute forcing with something like a rod/screwdriver wrapped with a paper towel and twisting it in there (hopefully without shredding it all over the engine). A while back, I bought a set of nozzles (still unopened) to fit onto my compressor to spray air and blow things around, so that'll help either way.
Careful spraying things around. If any of the valves are slightly open, you don't want metal fragments getting stuck between the valve and the seat. I would try to figure out how to get a vacuum nozzle in there. To do the job properly the head really needs to be pulled, outside of that it is going to be very tedious and you don't want to brute force anything. Best to do the work when you're rested and clear of mind, for sure, and have the patience to slowly work through it.
Careful spraying things around. If any of the valves are slightly open, you don't want metal fragments getting stuck between the valve and the seat. I would try to figure out how to get a vacuum nozzle in there. To do the job properly the head really needs to be pulled, outside of that it is going to be very tedious and you don't want to brute force anything. Best to do the work when you're rested and clear of mind, for sure, and have the patience to slowly work through it.
I do have a shop vac, but I'll have to see if there's any kind of tubing I can use thats big enough to pick up the shavings and yet small enough to actually get in there.
I used one of these Rubber Disposal Connector to step down from a vacuum hose to a smaller clear plastic hose for a project once. You can probably piece together a solution at a local hardware store.
Looks good. Did it come with a mic? Where did you place it if so? I'm installing mine soon but I've never done the mic. I'd like to get it on the roof liner if possible but I'm not sure how to snake it around, or if the cord is even long enough to do so.
Tore apart the stock passenger seat today to get the ODS and weight sensors out. I don't have the tools for the bottom end, and I think the sensors would need to be welded to the aftermarket seat rails, so I might just leave all that to my mechanic. For anyone reading this, I have a '13 and bought a seats out of a '09. The ODS unit is different and triggers the airbag light unfortunately. I'm waiting for a Honda Diagnostic tool to come in the mail to see if it can be relearned/make the light go away (thanks bmwalpina for the tip). Will update here when I get the HDS.
I do have a shop vac, but I'll have to see if there's any kind of tubing I can use thats big enough to pick up the shavings and yet small enough to actually get in there.
I second what alfa is saying. The only way other than pulling the head which is what I would recommend but understand why you can't/don't want to do that is with a vacuum. I would just be sketched out about some small bit of aluminum being In my cylinder and doing damage. Most people use thread locker for the inserts so that's the way to go. And I wouldn't worry about the white powder. Probably some anti corrosive stuff on it. Really glad you are doing the insert but I would have recommeded a time sert kit. Those are great for spark plugs and are better than helicoils. Good luck goobers! You can do it!
11-28-2018, 01:09 AM
