What did you do to your GE fit today?
BTW, I was also considering the Kosei K1, but e+42 isn't enough offset for 205 tires. Also, e+48 (Ray's & Weds) is sufficient for Wilwood's 4-pot dpha replacement caliper, but for BBK's that use bigger rotors, e+45 is probably the maximum.
I upgrade the microphone for bluetooth phone call from the stock one that came with the Sony RSX-GS9 Head Unit with Sony ECM-DS70P Stereo Microphone,
and I found a unique place to "plug it in"
DIY details here
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1412835
Also replace my DIY RCA selector with modified Sony XA-300 RCA selector:
And replace my scratched A/C air flow knob selector:
And replace my burn out LED front parking light with new one from Philips:
I also ordered a new custom REAR disc brake rotor since my current one already almost run out of the slot pattern, I modify the size a bit from 13.08in diameter to 13.18in diameter, so it will match the brake pad upper boundary better. Hopefully I can received it in a month when I am free and have time to do the replacement.
and I found a unique place to "plug it in"
DIY details here
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1412835
Also replace my DIY RCA selector with modified Sony XA-300 RCA selector:
And replace my scratched A/C air flow knob selector:
And replace my burn out LED front parking light with new one from Philips:
I also ordered a new custom REAR disc brake rotor since my current one already almost run out of the slot pattern, I modify the size a bit from 13.08in diameter to 13.18in diameter, so it will match the brake pad upper boundary better. Hopefully I can received it in a month when I am free and have time to do the replacement.
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 09-16-2018 at 03:53 AM.
Today, my father woke me up so that he could help me to my brakes... ha, not happening.
Why?
Cause I'm an idiot.
When I ordered the parts, I somehow managed to order two sets of brake pads, meaning I have to return one since there's no point in having it now, only to potentially lose track of it later. And the real reason I'm an idiot, is that I didn't pay enough attention and only ordered ONE rotor... which I fixed later with another order. So I have to wait for the second one to arrive before doing the work... but by then, my father would've already flown back to SD.
Before I explained why I couldn't do the brake work to him (having only one rotor, when I need two), he's all over me about needing two people to do the work, bleeding and all that. I'm like... no, I can do it by myself, especially considering that I did exactly that a few times already. And since I'm only swapping rotor and pads, I don't need to bleed anyway (the rotors aren't that thin, just worn unevenly).
He goes "pfft, whatever. When I was younger, I did all the work by myself..."
I'm like, "the bleeding too?" He goes "yes."
The what's the difference with me doing it by myself?!?
Geez, this old man.
Why?
Cause I'm an idiot.
When I ordered the parts, I somehow managed to order two sets of brake pads, meaning I have to return one since there's no point in having it now, only to potentially lose track of it later. And the real reason I'm an idiot, is that I didn't pay enough attention and only ordered ONE rotor... which I fixed later with another order. So I have to wait for the second one to arrive before doing the work... but by then, my father would've already flown back to SD.
Before I explained why I couldn't do the brake work to him (having only one rotor, when I need two), he's all over me about needing two people to do the work, bleeding and all that. I'm like... no, I can do it by myself, especially considering that I did exactly that a few times already. And since I'm only swapping rotor and pads, I don't need to bleed anyway (the rotors aren't that thin, just worn unevenly).
He goes "pfft, whatever. When I was younger, I did all the work by myself..."
I'm like, "the bleeding too?" He goes "yes."
The what's the difference with me doing it by myself?!?
Geez, this old man.
Last edited by Goobers; 09-16-2018 at 04:41 PM.
The Philips is ok, it is not as bright as I hope it is, but it have better review than the Osram/Sylvania model... I don't have much choice since I want an amber colored one...
if it is white, I can buy from IPF in Japan. So far I am very happy with all my IPF bulb. my last amber bulb for the front parking light were from VLEDS, they are bright but only last a bit more than a year,
so this time I decide Philips.
If you want to buy IPF, you can buy from rakuten japan using Buyee buying service.
When I ordered the parts, I somehow managed to order two sets of brake pads, meaning I have to return one since there's no point in having it now, only to potentially lose track of it later. And the real reason I'm an idiot, is that I didn't pay enough attention and only ordered ONE rotor... which I fixed later with another order. So I have to wait for the second one to arrive before doing the work... but by then, my father would've already flown back to SD.
Before I explained why I couldn't do the brake work to him (having only one rotor, when I need two), he's all over me about needing two people to do the work, bleeding and all that. I'm like... no, I can do it by myself, especially considering that I did exactly that a few times already. And since I'm only swapping rotor and pads, I don't need to bleed anyway (the rotors aren't that thin, just worn unevenly).
He goes "pfft, whatever. When I was younger, I did all the work by myself..."
I'm like, "the bleeding too?" He goes "yes."
The what's the difference with me doing it by myself?!?
Geez, this old man.
Before I explained why I couldn't do the brake work to him (having only one rotor, when I need two), he's all over me about needing two people to do the work, bleeding and all that. I'm like... no, I can do it by myself, especially considering that I did exactly that a few times already. And since I'm only swapping rotor and pads, I don't need to bleed anyway (the rotors aren't that thin, just worn unevenly).
He goes "pfft, whatever. When I was younger, I did all the work by myself..."
I'm like, "the bleeding too?" He goes "yes."
The what's the difference with me doing it by myself?!?
Geez, this old man.
So I was washing / waxing over the weekend and my parents were like all over me for giving too much attention to a cheap, old car. I think maybe they were jealous?
Last edited by hotkey; 09-17-2018 at 02:08 AM.
I'm shooting for close to, or below $200.
Doing a quick search, the lowest price I could see for 17x7 +50 (or even +42) is $333 ea.
Anything less expensive is either in the 15" or 16" size (which might not clear the BBK).
Kosei K1 TS from TireRack is $175, 17x7, 4x100, +42 mm and 15 lb. While the offset isn't as high as the SSRs can be, it's only off by 1 mm from my current Enkeis, so it's close enough for me to accept and almost half the price of the SSRs (and 3.7 lbs lighter per wheel). But, it's a "special/closeout" price from TR, so I don't know if that price will be around when I'm ready for new tires.
Doing a quick search, the lowest price I could see for 17x7 +50 (or even +42) is $333 ea.
Anything less expensive is either in the 15" or 16" size (which might not clear the BBK).
Kosei K1 TS from TireRack is $175, 17x7, 4x100, +42 mm and 15 lb. While the offset isn't as high as the SSRs can be, it's only off by 1 mm from my current Enkeis, so it's close enough for me to accept and almost half the price of the SSRs (and 3.7 lbs lighter per wheel). But, it's a "special/closeout" price from TR, so I don't know if that price will be around when I'm ready for new tires.
I'm shooting for close to, or below $200.
Doing a quick search, the lowest price I could see for 17x7 +50 (or even +42) is $333 ea.
Anything less expensive is either in the 15" or 16" size (which might not clear the BBK).
Kosei K1 TS from TireRack is $175, 17x7, 4x100, +42 mm and 15 lb. While the offset isn't as high as the SSRs can be, it's only off by 1 mm from my current Enkeis, so it's close enough for me to accept and almost half the price of the SSRs (and 3.7 lbs lighter per wheel). But, it's a "special/closeout" price from TR, so I don't know if that price will be around when I'm ready for new tires.
Doing a quick search, the lowest price I could see for 17x7 +50 (or even +42) is $333 ea.
Anything less expensive is either in the 15" or 16" size (which might not clear the BBK).
Kosei K1 TS from TireRack is $175, 17x7, 4x100, +42 mm and 15 lb. While the offset isn't as high as the SSRs can be, it's only off by 1 mm from my current Enkeis, so it's close enough for me to accept and almost half the price of the SSRs (and 3.7 lbs lighter per wheel). But, it's a "special/closeout" price from TR, so I don't know if that price will be around when I'm ready for new tires.
Edit...that being said, it is unbelievably hard to find decent wheel options for our Fits because of the offset requirements. There are great/cheap options for light wheels in Miata specs, but as soon as you want +43 or more offset, the choices get limited and expensive. Even harder if you're specifically looking for 7" width like I am.
Last edited by GAFIT; 09-18-2018 at 02:48 PM.
With my Enkei 16x7 +43mm wheels, the BBK clears the spokes if I remove one set of shims from the caliper. And if that was the only issue, the 3mm spacer I bought would be more than enough of a solution (since removing the shims means the caliper isn't centered on the rotor).
But the caliper hits the wheel weights because the barrel itself is barely big enough to clear the calipers. The barrel shrinks in diameter by 2" or rather the radius by 1" to make room for the valve stem and to be compliant with having enough room for TPMS sensors and unfortunately, thats where I need the wheel weights.
That said, I know that Hotkey has provide wheels that fit around the same size bbk... but the issue is... do all other wheels fit too? If it's going to be "hit or miss" (as no one actually lists the spec for the barrel, especially near the spokes where the valve stem needs to mount)... Instead of finding a 16x7 wheel that I like in both price, design and offset, etc... only to receive it and find out that even though it has more room than the Enkeis but still hits the wheel weights... and basically stuck in the same issue... then I'd rather save myself the headache and just get 17" wheels.
Out of curiousity, I measured the barrel of the stock wheels... and it's the same thing, the barrel shrinks to make room for the valve stem/TPMS, ending up with a 14" diameter near the spokes and bigger diameter elsewhere... despite being 16" wheels.
Back to what I quoted from you... if you look around, you'll see most, if not all wheels are the same, the diameter that mounts the tire isn't the same as the narrowest part of the barrel... and unfortunately, that difference also varies, hence why it's "hit or miss."
As for the claim to fit 15" wheels... that would only be true if the valve stem was non-TPMS and straight into the barrel at the spokes. It wasn't until AFTER the bbk shipped to me that I found out a LOT of other people had the same issue of fitting the BBKs... many solutions are ridiculous spacers that push the wheels out enough for the weights to clear or just plain bigger wheels.
Front to back clearance doesn't change with diameter. You are needing the 3mm spacer because of the spoke design and offset. More offset would be even worse.
Hitting the wheel weight is a different story. That would be due to the inner diameter of the wheel. That would be what I would call top to bottom clearance. Thanks for explaining the tpms sensor issue with the smaller inner diameter.
Too bad you don't have access to a bunch of wheels. I agree that it would be too costly to try for hit or miss fitments. Maybe see if there are other FitFreak's in your area? Plenty of people around here have aftermarket wheels.
Hitting the wheel weight is a different story. That would be due to the inner diameter of the wheel. That would be what I would call top to bottom clearance. Thanks for explaining the tpms sensor issue with the smaller inner diameter.
Too bad you don't have access to a bunch of wheels. I agree that it would be too costly to try for hit or miss fitments. Maybe see if there are other FitFreak's in your area? Plenty of people around here have aftermarket wheels.
Front to back clearance doesn't change with diameter. You are needing the 3mm spacer because of the spoke design and offset. More offset would be even worse.
Hitting the wheel weight is a different story. That would be due to the inner diameter of the wheel. That would be what I would call top to bottom clearance. Thanks for explaining the tpms sensor issue with the smaller inner diameter.
Too bad you don't have access to a bunch of wheels. I agree that it would be too costly to try for hit or miss fitments. Maybe see if there are other FitFreak's in your area? Plenty of people around here have aftermarket wheels.
Hitting the wheel weight is a different story. That would be due to the inner diameter of the wheel. That would be what I would call top to bottom clearance. Thanks for explaining the tpms sensor issue with the smaller inner diameter.
Too bad you don't have access to a bunch of wheels. I agree that it would be too costly to try for hit or miss fitments. Maybe see if there are other FitFreak's in your area? Plenty of people around here have aftermarket wheels.
I don’t understand why you think a higher offset would be worse. A higher (positive) offset means that even if the spoke comes in contact with the caliper, a spacer can be used (hopefully limited to 3mm), and still allow the wheel to not stick out much or smash into the fender as going too low on the offset would. My ideal in this case is +45/+48 without spacer or +48 to +53 with a 3mm spacer (equivalent to +45 to +50 range)... since I want to push the wheels back into the body a tad. Of course, +53 without a spacer means 205 tires are likely to rub the struts.
There in lies the rub... your meaning if “front to back” is different from mine. I would take front to back as clearing the wheel from the front face to the back edge, ie the barrel. Because that has been the issue I’ve been trying to resolve. Instead, you meant depth clearance of the spoke, which is no longer the issue.
I don’t understand why you think a higher offset would be worse. A higher (positive) offset means that even if the spoke comes in contact with the caliper, a spacer can be used (hopefully limited to 3mm), and still allow the wheel to not stick out much or smash into the fender as going too low on the offset would. My ideal in this case is +45/+48 without spacer or +48 to +53 with a 3mm spacer (equivalent to +45 to +50 range)... since I want to push the wheels back into the body a tad. Of course, +53 without a spacer means 205 tires are likely to rub the struts.
I do agree that higher offset works best for these cars, but I can't imagine needing more than a +48. At +40 the amount of rub we get is somewhat tolerable. I would think that +43 is enough. Just need to have a wheel with better face/spoke clearance for the calipers so you're not having to space them back out. My limited knowledge is that the RPF1's aren't so good for that.
We are mostly in the market for the same wheels. After about a year of searching, I've determined that what I want doesn't exist in the price range that I want to shop in. I'm going to live with our +40's until I find a good deal on a set of Volks or Advans in the specs I want. That or until I just get sick of looking and pony up a stupid amount of money for what I consider to by tiny wheels.
Kosei K1 TS from TireRack is $175, 17x7, 4x100, +42 mm and 15 lb. While the offset isn't as high as the SSRs can be, it's only off by 1 mm from my current Enkeis, so it's close enough for me to accept and almost half the price of the SSRs (and 3.7 lbs lighter per wheel). But, it's a "special/closeout" price from TR, so I don't know if that price will be around when I'm ready for new tires.
Sweet! : bowdown :: bowdown :: bowdown :
A higher offset would be worse for wheel face (spoke) to caliper clearance. You're already at a +43 and needing a spacer, correct?
I do agree that higher offset works best for these cars, but I can't imagine needing more than a +48. At +40 the amount of rub we get is somewhat tolerable. I would think that +43 is enough. Just need to have a wheel with better face/spoke clearance for the calipers so you're not having to space them back out. My limited knowledge is that the RPF1's aren't so good for that.
We are mostly in the market for the same wheels. After about a year of searching, I've determined that what I want doesn't exist in the price range that I want to shop in. I'm going to live with our +40's until I find a good deal on a set of Volks or Advans in the specs I want. That or until I just get sick of looking and pony up a stupid amount of money for what I consider to by tiny wheels.
I do agree that higher offset works best for these cars, but I can't imagine needing more than a +48. At +40 the amount of rub we get is somewhat tolerable. I would think that +43 is enough. Just need to have a wheel with better face/spoke clearance for the calipers so you're not having to space them back out. My limited knowledge is that the RPF1's aren't so good for that.
We are mostly in the market for the same wheels. After about a year of searching, I've determined that what I want doesn't exist in the price range that I want to shop in. I'm going to live with our +40's until I find a good deal on a set of Volks or Advans in the specs I want. That or until I just get sick of looking and pony up a stupid amount of money for what I consider to by tiny wheels.
As many of us agree... spoke design plays a role in caliper clearance with spokes. And since people say the RPF1s are particularly bad in that regards, then most other wheels should afford me the clearance at the same and even slightly higher offset.
The way I see it, if I start with a higher offset (say +48) and find the spokes hits the caliper, then I can add a spacer to move it and still retain a decently high offset (hopefully, +45) and still minimize rubbing the fenders. Where as, if I start at a lower offset that potentially rubs, and the spokes hit... then I’ll still need a spacer and I’ll definitely be rubbing.
Of course, this depends on the wheel maker. I’ve seen wheels where the only difference when moving offset is shaving the face that mounts to the hub... and other wheels that actually move the whole hub body a nd spokes in and out, so the spokes connect with the barrel slightly deeper with lower offset.
Oh, they definitely do, as my 205 on +43 will show with the rubbing ring on all my tires indicate. Which is also part of why I want higher offset.
Hello Chantastic, that bed fit snugly and looks comfortable enough for camping or rest during long drive. Nicely done !
The Philips is ok, it is not as bright as I hope it is, but it have better review than the Osram/Sylvania model... I don't have much choice since I want an amber colored one...
if it is white, I can buy from IPF in Japan. So far I am very happy with all my IPF bulb. my last amber bulb for the front parking light were from VLEDS, they are bright but only last a bit more than a year,
so this time I decide Philips.
If you want to buy IPF, you can buy from rakuten japan using Buyee buying service.
The Philips is ok, it is not as bright as I hope it is, but it have better review than the Osram/Sylvania model... I don't have much choice since I want an amber colored one...
if it is white, I can buy from IPF in Japan. So far I am very happy with all my IPF bulb. my last amber bulb for the front parking light were from VLEDS, they are bright but only last a bit more than a year,
so this time I decide Philips.
If you want to buy IPF, you can buy from rakuten japan using Buyee buying service.