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I’ve managed to strip some smaller screws/bolts (not cross threading) and even shear a lugnut on my previous car... so, I’m pretty fearful of doing anything similar inside the engine.
But, did you actually need to replace the rear brakes?
I mean, supposedly, with “normal” driving, it should last the life of the car. Of course, it means nothing if you’re driving with the e-brake lightly engaged (or e-brake drifting).
I’m coming up on 150k miles on my Fit and still haven’t replaced the rear brakes on my Fit, while the front have been replaced multiple times (replaced pads 4 times, rotor twice). The dealer didn’t mention needing anything done to my rear brakes last time I had it there a few months ago (I don’t think they inspected it when I brought it in the other day). In fact, it still holds quite well on the few times I tried to move while forgetting to release the e-brake.
No, The front and rear didn't need replaced. The original ones were very rusty and looked horrible. The fronts also had non OEM pads. I didn't like the feel. Now I have all fresh brakes.
No, The front and rear didn't need replaced. The original ones were very rusty and looked horrible. The fronts also had non OEM pads. I didn't like the feel. Now I have all fresh brakes.
Nice! Good working brakes is always money well spent!
I drove mommy dearest to the doctor and all was fine with the Fit. Once I left the doctor, that was the end of that. I got hit with sputtering, then limp mode and a p0304... to save anyone else from googling, the code is misfire cylinder #4.
Right now, I’m thinking the coil pack failed.
But I’m going to contact th dealer since it’s related to what they did.
You could be headed toward insert time. On my good friends GE, we pulled the head and took it to a machine shop to have them do all 4 plug holes. He may have the only permanently fixed GE cylinder head. LOL He just didn't want any chance of not being able to get to work again and a used head or just doing the one hole leaves you wondering about the next time.
It was probably 15,000 miles or so ago. Guess I got it right and the head gasket sealed. That was my first time pulling a head on a Honda.
You could be headed toward insert time. On my good friends GE, we pulled the head and took it to a machine shop to have them do all 4 plug holes. He may have the only permanently fixed GE cylinder head. LOL He just didn't want any chance of not being able to get to work again and a used head or just doing the one hole leaves you wondering about the next time.
It was probably 15,000 miles or so ago. Guess I got it right and the head gasket sealed. That was my first time pulling a head on a Honda.
I was also thinking it might be possible it came loose again, too. But unlike before, it's straight up throwing the misfire code at me. Also, the way it sputters is different from before. Though, maybe it's different because it's only affecting one cylinder this time instead of two like before... something about evening out or whatever.
Anyway, like I said, I'm gonna let them take a look and hopefully under the pretense(?)/assumption its related to what was going on a few days ago.
update: dropped off the car earlier and then had them drop me off. After I dropped off the car they tried to get me to okay the charge for an addition diagnostic fee. I’m like, shouldn’t this be covered under the previous diagnostic, especially since this was what they worked on? Then it was, last time was a ticking issue, this time was a drive ability issue. My response was that it was stalling out previously, so I’d say that’s a drive ability issue too. It’s even noted in the receipt.
update (again): they texted me... plugs #2 & 4 we’re missing their electrodes... what the flying...?
update (again): they texted me... plugs #2 & 4 we’re missing their electrodes... what the flying...?
... I assume they mean the side electrodes, and that they're probably still inside the engine. Are they going to remove the cylinder head to get them out? Or do they have some other way?
... I assume they mean the side electrodes, and that they're probably still inside the engine. Are they going to remove the cylinder head to get them out? Or do they have some other way?
Oh... I got my car back and hadn't thought to ask. But yes, it was the side/ground electrode... they showed one of the two to me. It broke off at the base of the electrode near the main body.
Did a brief google and... there aren't many results about what happens to the electrode after breaking (there's plenty about why it breaks). The few I found mentioned a (more likely?) possibility that it ends up being ejecting out the exhaust valve, though what happened afterwards was getting stuck in the catalytic converter or somehow manage passing through.
They were IZFR6K13, which were what the Sprintex install instructions says to use. I didn’t check the gap, but I think the ones I bought had labeling saying to not re-gap them or something. Had them in since March, so maybe 8-9k miles, maybe.
The dealer put in OEM (13s still?), which was what I was using until earlier this year.
When I was googling about broken electrodes, there were some forum posts saying that they could break due to vibration, and that loose spark plugs were more likely to vibrate.
If you’re talking about the “BKR7e11,” the car they were using had it, but they didn’t say anything about recommending or suggesting everyone else with the SC do it. You’ll notice, I posted in that thread too. And I would’ve followed it if they had even hinted I should, aside from “which allowed a skosh more timing up top in vtec, 5500rpm+.” This applies even less to me, since I no longer have a piggyback (nor reflash).
I'm putting this here in case anyone stumbles on this and are choosing plugs...
As is often the case, Honda is following the aftermarket. This exact same thing has happened with my boosted Ford product. Ford has revamped the plug number twice since introduction of the motor and the book spark plug called for is now two heat ranges colder than stock.
Here's where Honda is at today...
2015+ Honda Fit now calls for NGK 7 heat range and smaller gap. That is despite it being DI which is more efficient and could, in theory, get away with hotter plugs. This is of course without boost.
The Civic L15 with a turbo comes from the factory with NGK 8 heat range plugs and are factory gapped at .032
If someone is looking to boost an older L15, following Honda's fueling, timing, spark plug, etc choice for their L15 turbo motors is not a bad place to start. Yes, there are differences, but there are also many similarities.
Ordered a can of VHT Caliper paint. I'll be painting the rotor hats so they don't rust.
Also ordered a set of Kyo-ei hub rings in 56mm ID, 65mm OD. I have a set of Kone's, but I prefer Kyo-ei's.
Ordered a can of VHT Caliper paint. I'll be painting the rotor hats so they don't rust.
Also ordered a set of Kyo-ei hub rings in 56mm ID, 65mm OD. I have a set of Kone's, but I prefer Kyo-ei's.
Last 4 days I have been installing my sprintex supercharger. Ran into a few kinks. Haven't been able to figure out how to get the ECU Sockets off to connect the piggyback. I have been told there is a lever on the plug. Other than that I just need to re bolt a few items and then change the spark plugs to one step colder and I hope im good to go!
Last 4 days I have been installing my sprintex supercharger. Ran into a few kinks. Haven't been able to figure out how to get the ECU Sockets off to connect the piggyback. I have been told there is a lever on the plug. Other than that I just need to re bolt a few items and then change the spark plugs to one step colder and I hope im good to go!
Last 4 days I have been installing my sprintex supercharger. Ran into a few kinks. Haven't been able to figure out how to get the ECU Sockets off to connect the piggyback. I have been told there is a lever on the plug. Other than that I just need to re bolt a few items and then change the spark plugs to one step colder and I hope im good to go!
Since you also posted your questions here, I think it is best if I answer it here along with the fuel line questions that you ask me through PM.
Below are the pictures of my Boomslang harness that will plug into the ECU, and you can see the 3 connector have a "LEVER". I see your factory connectors from the pictures you send me through PM and I think you need to move the "cover" to expose the connector. Please note that it had been a while since I remove the Honda factory harness connector from the ECU so I do not remember it 100% but after you move that cover (or it could be part of the cover), you will see the "LEVER" on the factory connector just like the Boomslang connector.
For the fuel line, I don't think the original Honda retainers will work anymore but that "BLUE" clip from the sprintex fuel line will act like a retainer and yes, they can move a bit, but since they have o-ring inside, it is ok.
If you want a connection with a retainer, look at the second and third picture below where I upgrade to Goodridge 910Series PTFE with Aramid(Kevlar) reinforced hose and use EARL’s AT991965ERL EFI Quick Disconnect QD -6AN Male to 5/16” for Fuel Rail which will plug in directly to the fuel rail , and here is the thread about it: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...rced-hose.html
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; Oct 5, 2018 at 11:01 AM.
Last 4 days I have been installing my sprintex supercharger. Ran into a few kinks. Haven't been able to figure out how to get the ECU Sockets off to connect the piggyback. I have been told there is a lever on the plug. Other than that I just need to re bolt a few items and then change the spark plugs to one step colder and I hope im good to go!
... I assume they mean the side electrodes, and that they're probably still inside the engine. Are they going to remove the cylinder head to get them out? Or do they have some other way?
Hope we get to see pics 
