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Thank you for the info. You were also using IPF LED as your main driving lights too, right? Did they last long? Happy with them overall? I want to do projectors but am considering LED instead...
Up to this day, (I should say this night ), it still shine as bright as when they are new, and never have any problem. (and they are really bright, just as bright as car with LED headlight from factory)
The beam pattern is also just like stock, so it won't blind oncoming traffic unlike some other LED from non reputable manufacturer.
PIAA also just came out with a new model for their H4 LED replacement bulb, but I still like the IPF spec better.
Please click on the link above, and you can see the beam pattern on one of the pictures I posted on that thread.
I bought "premium" Centric rotors from Amazon to, hopefully, last me until I get new wheels to fit the BBK. After installing the new rotors and fresh pads, I drove a small loop around my neighborhood (35 mph roads) in an attempt to bed the pads. I managed to hit 55-60 mph twice, once on the desolate frontage road and the other one a big/wider (oddly empty) road before slamming the brakes to bring it down to 20-25 ish. I finished the remaining half of the loop with smaller/slower braking since I couldn't go that fast anymore.
Once I got home... I found both brakes a rather obvious blue. So, just from the (slightly shortcut) bedding process, they've already overheated... just f-ing dandy.
Oh, and while I was almost done with the front left corner (which I did first), I found this as I was about to put the wheel back on.
Well, shit.
Between those two... I maybe getting new wheels sooner than I had planned. :|
The other front wheel didn't show any dents. Both front tires were at the same 36 psi (I normally set 38 psi, but its been a month or two since), so it doesn't seem like it's leaking for now. The dark marks were my attempt at hammering it back with a rubber mallet (yeah, not even close to working). I'll see how it goes... maybe the two (rotors and wheel) will survive the life of that set of tires.
My current choice for wheel is the Enkei PF01 because it seems like the best compromise between design, specs and price for me... though, being bright silver is a PITA (I'd rather have a darkish flat gray). But a full set of that, plus tires and TPMS is almost $1700. However... TireRack doesn't have a full set of 4 wheels until the end of October... so, I have a minimum of a one month wait anyway.
Between those two... I maybe getting new wheels sooner than I had planned. :|
My current choice for wheel is the Enkei PF01 because it seems like the best compromise between design, specs and price for me... though, being bright silver is a PITA (I'd rather have a darkish flat gray). But a full set of that, plus tires and TPMS is almost $1700. However... TireRack doesn't have a full set of 4 wheels until the end of October... so, I have a minimum of a one month wait anyway.
But I did shoot TireRack a question about the barrel diameter of the PF01 16x7 +43mm where weights would be stuck on. The reason I asked was because of that stupid dent on my RPF1. Going with 17" wheel means shorter sidewall, which also means that if I manage to hit the same pothole that dented the RPF1, the PF01 is most likely going to break.
Fix the Alternator whine/noise by setting the HIDDEN switch inside my Zapco ASP-X4 X-over to FLOATING Ground.
It took me the whole Saturday because I try to locate the source of the alternator whine/noise one by one...
A good learning experience for me
They're pretty great! Except that I had to take the passenger side out for now until I figure out the airbag bussiness! I miss the old cars with no airbags to worry about lol
Up to this day, (I should say this night ), it still shine as bright as when they are new, and never have any problem. (and they are really bright, just as bright as car with LED headlight from factory)
The beam pattern is also just like stock, so it won't blind oncoming traffic unlike some other LED from non reputable manufacturer.
PIAA also just came out with a new model for their H4 LED replacement bulb, but I still like the IPF spec better.
Please click on the link above, and you can see the beam pattern on one of the pictures I posted on that thread.
Oh, I also use IPF LED bulb for my foglight.
Thank you! I will do some more research on this. Projectors are not cheap so this seems like reasonable solution.
So I’m driving up the 94/41 to Lake Bluff to take my niece to her golf practice... and about halfway up, I start hearing a rather disturbing sound. It sounds a lot like I’m dragging my muffler.
Due to traffic, I eventually slow down and the noise becomes more intermittent to the point where, even when moving I might not hear it, or still hear it when stopped. So, unless my muffler or whatever is jammed against something, it’s not the source of the sound.
I eventually get off the “highway” and immediately forced to stop because some jackass decided to turn out of a parking lot, right in front of me. My Fit stalls out and from then on it has trouble staying on, just like the incident a few weeks (or months?) ago.
I get to the golf course (which is getting rained out) and open up the hood.... PING! I hear some very loud pinging. It’s rather startling... but it sound likes something floating around that “eventually” slams into the metal housing. It’s a few seconds between sounds, so it doesn’t follow the rpm. So, I’m not sure if it’s the supercharger or the engine itself. Due to my hearing issue, I can’t really narrow the source beyond that.
This whole time, I didn’t get an trouble codes or even pending. But after a while of starting and stalling out, it finally gives a pending code of p0113.... google says IAT circuit too high. Which is doesn’t really make sense, unless it’s related to my briefly opening the air filter box (no, the engine wasn’t running when I opened it).
I’m worried about whether I can actually make it home, not to mention it suddenly got stormy.
So yeah, I’m not kidding, I think I’m gonna cry (if I’m not already since my eyes have been a little irritated lately).
Good luck Goobers! Out of curiosity, how many miles are on the supercharger?
Thanks.
About 87k. The Fit had something like 63k (Dec '13) when I installed it and its now about 150k.
Had it rebuilt earlier this year due to it spraying oil out the drive "snout"... but honestly, it seemed better BEFORE the rebuild. Things have been rather "uncertain" ever since, with the chatter and seemingly uncentered drive pulley...
I’m worried about whether I can actually make it home, not to mention it suddenly got stormy.
So yeah, I’m not kidding, I think I’m gonna cry (if I’m not already since my eyes have been a little irritated lately).
Aw, man! And I thought I had problems! Hang in there Fit brother!
How did it go? Were you able to get home?
Aw, man! And I thought I had problems! Hang in there Fit brother!
How did it go? Were you able to get home?
After that post (sorry, forgot to mention it in my last post), I eventually decided to take a chance and drive it to the dealership I normally go to. It was a chance for two reasons... one was whether or not I would make it, the other was whether they would work on it. Since they told me previously, they wouldn't work on the supercharger (aftermarket, liability and all that). I told them, if nothing else, I hoped they could at least narrow down the issue. They didn't have time to look at it, since I got there at 45 min to closing with 4 cars ahead of me and only 2 techs on hand. They told me they would try to get to my car the next day.
The strange (at the time) part was... there didn't seem to be a problem during the drive to the dealership. But, like I told my sister, just because it "sounds okay" doesn't mean that it is okay. So, I left my Fit there for them to check it out.
Fast forward to 15 minutes ago, got call from the dealer... "the #2 and #3 spark plugs were crazy loose." Because of that it was losing compression. He also mentioned the injector being corroded/burnt... maybe he meant the coil pack (I hope) or spark plug tip. They charged me $140 for labor (which happens to be the exact amount of the diagnostics fee it replaces) and told me that if I don't get a call back within half an hour, everything should be okay and I can pick up my Fit.
@.@!!!!!
I should count my blessings... I think I'm still gonna cry (too happy).
I replaced the spark plugs a little while back, but at the time, I only had a big 1/2" torque wrench. Despite the space the supercharger freed up over the stock manifold, its no where near enough for that wrench, so I had to guess it as hand tightened plus a quarter turn. I guess that wasn't enough. I did buy a smaller torque wrench to check it later, but never got around to actually following through. *sigh* what a lazy dumbass.
What I don't understand though is, while I guess the symptoms make sense with the trouble I was seeing... I fully expected trouble codes to be popping up left and right... but didn't get any except near the end (p0113... doesn't connect for me).
Hope all will be well with that, relatively, inexpensive repair.
Don't beat yourself up over the plugs. I do use a torque wrench, but that doesn't stop our #3 cylinder plug from coming loose. I keep tightening to the factory spec of 13 lb/ft. Next go around I'm going to try 20 lb/ft. Not much to loose since I'm tired of tightening that plug.
Fast forward to 15 minutes ago, got call from the dealer... "the #2 and #3 spark plugs were crazy loose." Because of that it was losing compression. He also mentioned the injector being corroded/burnt... maybe he meant the coil pack (I hope) or spark plug tip. They charged me $140 for labor (which happens to be the exact amount of the diagnostics fee it replaces) and told me that if I don't get a call back within half an hour, everything should be okay and I can pick up my Fit.
I replaced the spark plugs a little while back, but at the time, I only had a big 1/2" torque wrench. Despite the space the supercharger freed up over the stock manifold, its no where near enough for that wrench, so I had to guess it as hand tightened plus a quarter turn. I guess that wasn't enough. I did buy a smaller torque wrench to check it later, but never got around to actually following through. *sigh* what a lazy dumbass.
That's good to know! Whew!
Personally, I don't trust the "hand-tighten-plus-quarter-turn"; I always end up with loose plugs. All the mechanics I worked with tighten to their satisfaction w/o a torque wrench. I followed their example and haven't had loose plugs ever since. That was a long time ago.
I had the Honda dealer replace the rear drum brakes and shoes with OEM parts. Three weeks ago I had the front rotors and pads replaced with OEM parts. Its has been an expensive month.
2016 BMW M235ix
I just paid off the Fit . The Fit serves as my daily driver ( Beater car ) . I took out a 5 year loan and paid it off in 1.5 . Now I need to work on paying off the Beemer .
Last edited by Marmugmotleocay; Sep 27, 2018 at 10:05 AM.
That's good to know! Whew!
Personally, I don't trust the "hand-tighten-plus-quarter-turn"; I always end up with loose plugs. All the mechanics I worked with tighten to their satisfaction w/o a torque wrench. I followed their example and haven't had loose plugs ever since. That was a long time ago.
I’ve managed to strip some smaller screws/bolts (not cross threading) and even shear a lugnut on my previous car... so, I’m pretty fearful of doing anything similar inside the engine.
Originally Posted by Marmugmotleocay
I had the Honda dealer replace the rear drum brakes and shoes with OEM parts. Three weeks ago I had the front rotors and pads replaced with OEM parts. Its has been an expensive month.
But, did you actually need to replace the rear brakes?
I mean, supposedly, with “normal” driving, it should last the life of the car. Of course, it means nothing if you’re driving with the e-brake lightly engaged (or e-brake drifting).
I’m coming up on 150k miles on my Fit and still haven’t replaced the rear brakes on my Fit, while the front have been replaced multiple times (replaced pads 4 times, rotor twice). The dealer didn’t mention needing anything done to my rear brakes last time I had it there a few months ago (I don’t think they inspected it when I brought it in the other day). In fact, it still holds quite well on the few times I tried to move while forgetting to release the e-brake.
Agree on the rear brakes. I think we came close to finding the lifespan of the shoes. At 191k miles, they are finally getting pretty thin. I'm sure they'd last a bit longer, but not sure how much longer.
), it still shine as bright as when they are new, and never have any problem. (and they are really bright, just as bright as car with LED headlight from factory)
: bowdown :: bowdown :: bowdown :
I think I’m gonna cry.
