What did you do to your GE fit today?
Very Nice
Where did you buy those Paddle Shift Extender? Please... ?
Edit: found it on eBay:
Pinalloy Red Alloy Steering Paddle Shifter Extension Fit Honda Jazz Civic CRV | eBay
I just buy one for me...
I see the seller had sold 2 piece before me, that must be you and FittedonEM?
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 11-26-2016 at 12:53 AM.
I think you are only the person I know who has had this dilemma, because of your grille.
I believe the legit badges are from a EP3 type r front and rsx/integra for the rear.
If you are serious about getting a legit red badge (and you should because that grill is awesome) call up ICBMotorsport and ask them.
They should be either able to give you measurements or at least tell you what models of badges are available in different sizes.
I believe the legit badges are from a EP3 type r front and rsx/integra for the rear.
If you are serious about getting a legit red badge (and you should because that grill is awesome) call up ICBMotorsport and ask them.
They should be either able to give you measurements or at least tell you what models of badges are available in different sizes.
I guess it's a nice problem to have after all...
Hi Mr. Hollow,
Very Nice
Where did you buy those Paddle Shift Extender? Please... ?
Edit: found it on eBay:
Pinalloy Red Alloy Steering Paddle Shifter Extension Fit Honda Jazz Civic CRV | eBay
I just buy one for me...
I see the seller had sold 2 piece before me, that must be you and FittedonEM?
Very Nice
Where did you buy those Paddle Shift Extender? Please... ?
Edit: found it on eBay:
Pinalloy Red Alloy Steering Paddle Shifter Extension Fit Honda Jazz Civic CRV | eBay
I just buy one for me...
I see the seller had sold 2 piece before me, that must be you and FittedonEM?
FittedonEM had silver ones, but I am sure its the same seller.
I noticed something really odd on my exhaust pipe while under the car yesterday. It is the pipe between the resonator and muffler. It looks like some sort of tar or sap like substance, and I am absolutely stumped.
Any ideas??
Any ideas??
Hi Mr. Hollow, you must had parked somewhere where there is a lot of dry grass or dry tree leaf...
When I work at my car dealership, the new cars, always parked at the same spot each time, and at the center of it, usually there is tons of dry tree leaf collected and become small mountain... (the subcontractor who wash our new car on the lot 2 times a week are lazy and don't want to clean underneath the car)....
in rare cases, where we need to rearrange the lot and that make the position of the cars change,... the mountain of leaf suddenly not at the center anymore in relation to the car.. and sometimes those leaf got sticky to the hot muffler/exhaust pipe from car return from "hard" test drive.
and in your case, you must had parked on top of those leaf, or the leaf got blown by wind and deposited under your exhaust pipe while it still hot.... those exhaust pipe of ours located on the right side of our car (near curb) so another possibility is you park on mountain of some kind of trash near the curb that you missed (perhaps it was dark at night when you parked....)...
talking about exhaust,
I have new plan for my exhaust... will know more hopefully by tonight (our time) when people in Japan start working as their time is ahead of us... and already Monday morning in few hours...
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 11-27-2016 at 06:30 PM.
Thanks for the great idea Mr. Hollow , I can't wait for it to arrive
Hi Mr. Hollow, you must had parked somewhere where there is a lot of dry grass or dry tree leaf...
When I work at my car dealership, the new cars, always parked at the same spot each time, and at the center of it, usually there is tons of dry tree leaf collected and become small mountain... (the subcontractor who wash our new car on the lot 2 times a week are lazy and don't want to clean underneath the car)....
in rare cases, where we need to rearrange the lot and that make the position of the cars change,... the mountain of leaf suddenly not at the center anymore in relation to the car.. and sometimes those leaf got sticky to the hot muffler/exhaust pipe from car return from "hard" test drive.
and in your case, you must had parked on top of those leaf, or the leaf got blown by wind and deposited under your exhaust pipe while it still hot.... those exhaust pipe of ours located on the right side of our car (near curb) so another possibility is you park on mountain of some kind of trash near the curb that you missed (perhaps it was dark at night when you parked....)...
talking about exhaust,
I have new plan for my exhaust... will know more hopefully by tonight (our time) when people in Japan start working as their time is ahead of us... and already Monday morning in few hours...
Hi Mr. Hollow, you must had parked somewhere where there is a lot of dry grass or dry tree leaf...
When I work at my car dealership, the new cars, always parked at the same spot each time, and at the center of it, usually there is tons of dry tree leaf collected and become small mountain... (the subcontractor who wash our new car on the lot 2 times a week are lazy and don't want to clean underneath the car)....
in rare cases, where we need to rearrange the lot and that make the position of the cars change,... the mountain of leaf suddenly not at the center anymore in relation to the car.. and sometimes those leaf got sticky to the hot muffler/exhaust pipe from car return from "hard" test drive.
and in your case, you must had parked on top of those leaf, or the leaf got blown by wind and deposited under your exhaust pipe while it still hot.... those exhaust pipe of ours located on the right side of our car (near curb) so another possibility is you park on mountain of some kind of trash near the curb that you missed (perhaps it was dark at night when you parked....)...
talking about exhaust,
I have new plan for my exhaust... will know more hopefully by tonight (our time) when people in Japan start working as their time is ahead of us... and already Monday morning in few hours...
Oooh sounds like you are planning to buy something from Japan My guess is J's racing axle back muffler?
I thought about the spoon N1 muffler as you can buy it from Nemos Garage here in local for 400 dollars.
https://nemos-garage.com
Is a T1R B Pipe worth it?
Also, is it possible to map out all of the buttons on the Civic SI steering wheel? I want to get one because they look nice and I prefer the civic wheel over the fit, I just don't want 10 unused buttons on it...
Also, is it possible to map out all of the buttons on the Civic SI steering wheel? I want to get one because they look nice and I prefer the civic wheel over the fit, I just don't want 10 unused buttons on it...
Last edited by counterFIT; 11-27-2016 at 09:41 PM.
Nothing new really, had a 2 year inspection last week, which meant I went back to stock front bumper, stock canister, stock hood and removed wing. Yesterday, when the weather let up, put the J's rear canister, hood and wing back on. Will put the bumper back sometime this week. Was bored and ordered a S660 Honda Access Ti shift knob and some ChargeSpeed carbon side sills.
Well technically, did prior to the inspection install the new DBA Series4000 rotors up front that are made for a Mini JWS as they are the same size as the rotors that come with the J's/Seidoya 6 pot caliper, new Dixcel HS rotors in the rear and the Seidoya RM551+ pads front and rear; these things scream performance, literally when cold they scream.
Well technically, did prior to the inspection install the new DBA Series4000 rotors up front that are made for a Mini JWS as they are the same size as the rotors that come with the J's/Seidoya 6 pot caliper, new Dixcel HS rotors in the rear and the Seidoya RM551+ pads front and rear; these things scream performance, literally when cold they scream.
Last edited by 555sexydrive; 11-27-2016 at 10:08 PM.
the Civic Si steering wheel (older generation) should fit our Honda Fit because when I buy my J's Racing Steering wheel, it specify that it will fit both the Civic and Honda Fit. The button looks similar to Honda Fit sport button, but I don't know about the electronic socket connector for Civic Si Button, but don't worry, you can buy those button and connector for Honda Fit Sport independently, so just buy the Civic Si SKELETON steering wheel, and buy the button separately.
Regarding the T1R B Pipe,
I would recommend you do a custom 2 1/4in piping at your local exhaust shop, should be cheaper and you can select your own resonator.
I used OEM Honda Civic Si Resonator and Civic Si Muffler plus a bullet Vibrant resonator and Dynomax mini racing bullet resonator with 2 1/4in piping all the way.
(yeah so many resonator cause I want to keep my car quiet yet have very high flow to help my Sprintex).
Also I want to share with you,
that if you are still thinking of buying T1R B Pipe, better wait and buy a used one.
Here is why,
Few days ago, I email AJ Racing/T1R in Canada because their website show they have the T1R Racing Converter in stock,
but as usual (typical AJ Racing),
when I email them they wrote their standard operating procedure reply:
a. the parts Not in Stock (even their website show it is in stock and luckily I don't just place order and pay on their website),
b. the only way I can get it is I had to place NON REFUNDABLE deposit
c. More coming soon in January??? and when they arrive They will sell very fast... so I better put a NON REFUNDABLE deposit ???
You know, after all this year dealing with AJ Racing,
I would NOT buy anything from them unless they confirm in writing (email) that they really had the item in stock...
My first experience was (back in early 2013 when I just bought my car) buying a Honda RED emblem for the front grill and back hatch plus JDM RS emblem... I paid their mandatory "NON REFUNDABLE Deposit" and at that time Jason who work there (by the way Jason is a nice person who just happened to work there and no longer working there), told me I will have the emblem in 1 month... you know what, it end up being almost 6 months before I received them... yap,... and of course I actually PAID IN FULL in advance... that is kinda suck.... at that time, I don't know about Buyee/Tenso/Rakuten/Amazon Japan/Japan Parts/Nengun/eBay/RHDJapan... if I know, I would already able to get those emblem in 2 weeks time!!! and would be CHEAPER too.
Second time, I bought the T1R DownPipe/header which they do have in stock (they advertise at fitfreak saying they have in stock), so this one went smoothly.... no complain but of course simply because they had it in stock.
Third time, I want to buy their 2 point lower arm brace because T1R version is the only one (beside ultra racing bar) that will fit Honda Fit with AT transmission... (I already have Cusco 4 point lower subframe brace and the Cusco 2 point lower arm brace will hit the engine mounting on Fit with AT Transmission).
This time I contacting them several times during 6 months period and they always say 15 pieces (new batch) will come in 2 months and ask for deposit, which I refuse, and I told them I will contact them again in 2 months, each time I contact them again, they keep saying the last shipment of 15 pieces just sold..., too late...
This happened like 3 times in a row, and at my last phone contact,
I think it was Ben (the owner) who again told me I need to put deposit otherwise I will always missed my chance to buy and in a kinda arrogant (but nervous) tone said he just pre sold all the batches that according to him arrived last week...
Wow, I almost feel like ordering a T1R 2 point lower arm braces for Honda Fit/CR-Z going to be as hard as ordering a Ferrari,... cause unless you put deposit, they are gone / pre sold before they arrived
Yeah right... Sure..., at that time I really feel like arguing, but... I let it go...
I mean, this parts only fit Honda CR-Z and Honda Fit GE and I am pretty sure if 15 pieces sold (each time for 3 times in a row which mean the entire 3 x 2 months = 6 months they sold something like 45pc 2 point lower arm braces) someone who bought them surely post at either fitfreak or crz forum...
and NO one in both forum post about buying them in those time period...
which can only mean,
NONE of those batch EVER arrived... basically AJ Racing never want to stock anything and when they ask us for deposit, usually they will try to wait for more people to order the same parts so they can order a bunch together...
problem is
if nobody else order during those period or not enough MOQ (minimum order quantity),.... that mean our order might get stuck in limbo for a very long time until enough people order to reach the MOQ...
and since the deposit is NON refundable, we get stuck...
There are many post both in this forum and CRZ forum who complain about they are waiting a long time for their parts to arrived...,
The T1R Down Pipe/Header that I bought had a very good quality.
That I admit, so QUALITY is NOT a PROBLEM...
and if AJ RAcing would just be humble enough and say,
we don't want to stock any parts because we don't want to burden our inventory level and cash flow, and we need you to put non refundable deposit before we place order, and it might take 3 to 6 months, and just be honest with it,
I will be fine.... and I still order from them, because I like dealing with honest people who under promise and over perform.
But if they are NOT Honest and still sound arrogant and keep saying they sold very quickly,... yeah right.... no matter how bad I want their stuff,
I rather pass and buy it somewhere else even if I have to pay much more.
Yes, again, on the last email that I just received few days ago,
AJ Racing again say that those T1R racing converter sells very fast and I need to put non refundable deposit... for incoming January shipment.
I mean if they sell very fast, the logic is AJ RAcing would STOCK them since it is their money making fast selling item...
but of course we know this is not true,
Our Fit GE and CR-Z had stopped production... there is no way this racing converter still a fast selling item... what a BS !!!
I hate when people think they can just LIE to other people, and think other people is not smart enough to see through...
so right now I am looking for a used T1R racing converter,
I prefer to buy a used one from honest fitfreak or crz forum member than order new with non refundable deposit knowing it might took forever (if ever) before I can get them...
In summary, only buy from AJ Racing after you got written email confirmation that they had the item in stock !!! do NOT buy right away from their website without checking about the stock first. If they had them in stock, then usually no problem.
Like people say,
Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice shame on me...
No way I am going to get fooled again!!!
Anyway,
I just found a alternative source for this racing converter from Japan (different brand and cost more), and I am currently waiting if I can still custom order it...
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 11-27-2016 at 10:54 PM.
Hi CounterFIT,
the Civic Si steering wheel (older generation) should fit our Honda Fit because when I buy my J's Racing Steering wheel, it specify that it will fit both the Civic and Honda Fit. The button looks similar to Honda Fit sport button, but I don't know about the electronic socket connector for Civic Si Button, but don't worry, you can buy those button and connector for Honda Fit Sport independently, so just buy the Civic Si SKELETON steering wheel, and buy the button separately.
Regarding the T1R B Pipe,
I would recommend you do a custom 2 1/4in piping at your local exhaust shop, should be cheaper and you can select your own resonator.
I used OEM Honda Civic Si Resonator and Civic Si Muffler plus a bullet Vibrant resonator and Dynomax mini racing bullet resonator with 2 1/4in piping all the way.
(yeah so many resonator cause I want to keep my car quiet yet have very high flow to help my Sprintex).
Also I want to share with you,
that if you are still thinking of buying T1R B Pipe, better wait and buy a used one.
Here is why,
Few days ago, I email AJ Racing/T1R in Canada because their website show they have the T1R Racing Converter in stock,
but as usual (typical AJ Racing),
when I email them they wrote their standard operating procedure reply:
a. the parts Not in Stock (even their website show it is in stock and luckily I don't just place order and pay on their website),
b. the only way I can get it is I had to place NON REFUNDABLE deposit
c. More coming soon in January??? and when they arrive They will sell very fast... so I better put a NON REFUNDABLE deposit ???
You know, after all this year dealing with AJ Racing,
I would NOT buy anything from them unless they confirm in writing (email) that they really had the item in stock...
My first experience was (back in early 2013 when I just bought my car) buying a Honda RED emblem for the front grill and back hatch plus JDM RS emblem... I paid their mandatory "NON REFUNDABLE Deposit" and at that time Jason who work there (by the way Jason is a nice person who just happened to work there and no longer working there), told me I will have the emblem in 1 month... you know what, it end up being almost 6 months before I received them... yap,... and of course I actually PAID IN FULL in advance... that is kinda suck.... at that time, I don't know about Buyee/Tenso/Rakuten/Amazon Japan/Japan Parts/Nengun/eBay/RHDJapan... if I know, I would already able to get those emblem in 2 weeks time!!! and would be CHEAPER too.
Second time, I bought the T1R DownPipe/header which they do have in stock (they advertise at fitfreak saying they have in stock), so this one went smoothly.... no complain but of course simply because they had it in stock.
Third time, I want to buy their 2 point lower arm brace because T1R version is the only one (beside ultra racing bar) that will fit Honda Fit with AT transmission... (I already have Cusco 4 point lower subframe brace and the Cusco 2 point lower arm brace will hit the engine mounting on Fit with AT Transmission).
This time I contacting them several times during 6 months period and they always say 15 pieces (new batch) will come in 2 months and ask for deposit, which I refuse, and I told them I will contact them again in 2 months, each time I contact them again, they keep saying the last shipment of 15 pieces just sold..., too late...
This happened like 3 times in a row, and at my last phone contact,
I think it was Ben (the owner) who again told me I need to put deposit otherwise I will always missed my chance to buy and in a kinda arrogant (but nervous) tone said he just pre sold all the batches that according to him arrived last week...
Wow, I almost feel like ordering a T1R 2 point lower arm braces for Honda Fit/CR-Z going to be as hard as ordering a Ferrari,... cause unless you put deposit, they are gone / pre sold before they arrived
Yeah right... Sure..., at that time I really feel like arguing, but... I let it go...
I mean, this parts only fit Honda CR-Z and Honda Fit GE and I am pretty sure if 15 pieces sold (each time for 3 times in a row which mean the entire 3 x 2 months = 6 months they sold something like 45pc 2 point lower arm braces) someone who bought them surely post at either fitfreak or crz forum...
and NO one in both forum post about buying them in those time period...
which can only mean,
NONE of those batch EVER arrived... basically AJ Racing never want to stock anything and when they ask us for deposit, usually they will try to wait for more people to order the same parts so they can order a bunch together...
problem is
if nobody else order during those period or not enough MOQ (minimum order quantity),.... that mean our order might get stuck in limbo for a very long time until enough people order to reach the MOQ...
and since the deposit is NON refundable, we get stuck...
There are many post both in this forum and CRZ forum who complain about they are waiting a long time for their parts to arrived...,
The T1R Down Pipe/Header that I bought had a very good quality.
That I admit, so QUALITY is NOT a PROBLEM...
and if AJ RAcing would just be humble enough and say,
we don't want to stock any parts because we don't want to burden our inventory level and cash flow, and we need you to put non refundable deposit before we place order, and it might take 3 to 6 months, and just be honest with it,
I will be fine.... and I still order from them, because I like dealing with honest people who under promise and over perform.
But if they are NOT Honest and still sound arrogant and keep saying they sold very quickly,... yeah right.... no matter how bad I want their stuff,
I rather pass and buy it somewhere else even if I have to pay much more.
Yes, again, on the last email that I just received few days ago,
AJ Racing again say that those T1R racing converter sells very fast and I need to put non refundable deposit... for incoming January shipment.
I mean if they sell very fast, the logic is AJ RAcing would STOCK them since it is their money making fast selling item...
but of course we know this is not true,
Our Fit GE and CR-Z had stopped production... there is no way this racing converter still a fast selling item... what a BS !!!
I hate when people think they can just LIE to other people, and think other people is not smart enough to see through...
so right now I am looking for a used T1R racing converter,
I prefer to buy a used one from honest fitfreak or crz forum member than order new with non refundable deposit knowing it might took forever (if ever) before I can get them...
In summary, only buy from AJ Racing after you got written email confirmation that they had the item in stock !!! do NOT buy right away from their website without checking about the stock first. If they had them in stock, then usually no problem.
Like people say,
Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice shame on me...
No way I am going to get fooled again!!!
Anyway,
I just found a alternative source for this racing converter from Japan (different brand and cost more), and I am currently waiting if I can still custom order it...
the Civic Si steering wheel (older generation) should fit our Honda Fit because when I buy my J's Racing Steering wheel, it specify that it will fit both the Civic and Honda Fit. The button looks similar to Honda Fit sport button, but I don't know about the electronic socket connector for Civic Si Button, but don't worry, you can buy those button and connector for Honda Fit Sport independently, so just buy the Civic Si SKELETON steering wheel, and buy the button separately.
Regarding the T1R B Pipe,
I would recommend you do a custom 2 1/4in piping at your local exhaust shop, should be cheaper and you can select your own resonator.
I used OEM Honda Civic Si Resonator and Civic Si Muffler plus a bullet Vibrant resonator and Dynomax mini racing bullet resonator with 2 1/4in piping all the way.
(yeah so many resonator cause I want to keep my car quiet yet have very high flow to help my Sprintex).
Also I want to share with you,
that if you are still thinking of buying T1R B Pipe, better wait and buy a used one.
Here is why,
Few days ago, I email AJ Racing/T1R in Canada because their website show they have the T1R Racing Converter in stock,
but as usual (typical AJ Racing),
when I email them they wrote their standard operating procedure reply:
a. the parts Not in Stock (even their website show it is in stock and luckily I don't just place order and pay on their website),
b. the only way I can get it is I had to place NON REFUNDABLE deposit
c. More coming soon in January??? and when they arrive They will sell very fast... so I better put a NON REFUNDABLE deposit ???
You know, after all this year dealing with AJ Racing,
I would NOT buy anything from them unless they confirm in writing (email) that they really had the item in stock...
My first experience was (back in early 2013 when I just bought my car) buying a Honda RED emblem for the front grill and back hatch plus JDM RS emblem... I paid their mandatory "NON REFUNDABLE Deposit" and at that time Jason who work there (by the way Jason is a nice person who just happened to work there and no longer working there), told me I will have the emblem in 1 month... you know what, it end up being almost 6 months before I received them... yap,... and of course I actually PAID IN FULL in advance... that is kinda suck.... at that time, I don't know about Buyee/Tenso/Rakuten/Amazon Japan/Japan Parts/Nengun/eBay/RHDJapan... if I know, I would already able to get those emblem in 2 weeks time!!! and would be CHEAPER too.
Second time, I bought the T1R DownPipe/header which they do have in stock (they advertise at fitfreak saying they have in stock), so this one went smoothly.... no complain but of course simply because they had it in stock.
Third time, I want to buy their 2 point lower arm brace because T1R version is the only one (beside ultra racing bar) that will fit Honda Fit with AT transmission... (I already have Cusco 4 point lower subframe brace and the Cusco 2 point lower arm brace will hit the engine mounting on Fit with AT Transmission).
This time I contacting them several times during 6 months period and they always say 15 pieces (new batch) will come in 2 months and ask for deposit, which I refuse, and I told them I will contact them again in 2 months, each time I contact them again, they keep saying the last shipment of 15 pieces just sold..., too late...
This happened like 3 times in a row, and at my last phone contact,
I think it was Ben (the owner) who again told me I need to put deposit otherwise I will always missed my chance to buy and in a kinda arrogant (but nervous) tone said he just pre sold all the batches that according to him arrived last week...
Wow, I almost feel like ordering a T1R 2 point lower arm braces for Honda Fit/CR-Z going to be as hard as ordering a Ferrari,... cause unless you put deposit, they are gone / pre sold before they arrived
Yeah right... Sure..., at that time I really feel like arguing, but... I let it go...
I mean, this parts only fit Honda CR-Z and Honda Fit GE and I am pretty sure if 15 pieces sold (each time for 3 times in a row which mean the entire 3 x 2 months = 6 months they sold something like 45pc 2 point lower arm braces) someone who bought them surely post at either fitfreak or crz forum...
and NO one in both forum post about buying them in those time period...
which can only mean,
NONE of those batch EVER arrived... basically AJ Racing never want to stock anything and when they ask us for deposit, usually they will try to wait for more people to order the same parts so they can order a bunch together...
problem is
if nobody else order during those period or not enough MOQ (minimum order quantity),.... that mean our order might get stuck in limbo for a very long time until enough people order to reach the MOQ...
and since the deposit is NON refundable, we get stuck...
There are many post both in this forum and CRZ forum who complain about they are waiting a long time for their parts to arrived...,
The T1R Down Pipe/Header that I bought had a very good quality.
That I admit, so QUALITY is NOT a PROBLEM...
and if AJ RAcing would just be humble enough and say,
we don't want to stock any parts because we don't want to burden our inventory level and cash flow, and we need you to put non refundable deposit before we place order, and it might take 3 to 6 months, and just be honest with it,
I will be fine.... and I still order from them, because I like dealing with honest people who under promise and over perform.
But if they are NOT Honest and still sound arrogant and keep saying they sold very quickly,... yeah right.... no matter how bad I want their stuff,
I rather pass and buy it somewhere else even if I have to pay much more.
Yes, again, on the last email that I just received few days ago,
AJ Racing again say that those T1R racing converter sells very fast and I need to put non refundable deposit... for incoming January shipment.
I mean if they sell very fast, the logic is AJ RAcing would STOCK them since it is their money making fast selling item...
but of course we know this is not true,
Our Fit GE and CR-Z had stopped production... there is no way this racing converter still a fast selling item... what a BS !!!
I hate when people think they can just LIE to other people, and think other people is not smart enough to see through...
so right now I am looking for a used T1R racing converter,
I prefer to buy a used one from honest fitfreak or crz forum member than order new with non refundable deposit knowing it might took forever (if ever) before I can get them...
In summary, only buy from AJ Racing after you got written email confirmation that they had the item in stock !!! do NOT buy right away from their website without checking about the stock first. If they had them in stock, then usually no problem.
Like people say,
Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice shame on me...
No way I am going to get fooled again!!!
Anyway,
I just found a alternative source for this racing converter from Japan (different brand and cost more), and I am currently waiting if I can still custom order it...
When I asked about the steering wheel I was actually talking about the 2012 (I should've clarified) which has the circular buttons instead of the GE style. I actually found a potential solution to this but it involves using a Raspberry Pi, which I'm interested in but will not be doing for quite awhile. So for the steering wheel I think I'll just end up ordering a non-Si model on eBay for ~$60 which should be a direct fit (I'll have to mess around with the wiring). Also, sounds like A&J racing is a no go , I prefer not to deal with companies like that.
Another quick question... Does anyone know how to get an alignment done where they actually mess with the coilover camber? I want a slight bit of negative camber so my tires will more easily clear the front fenders but I want it done right. My BuddyClub N+ has camber adjustment but I am not sure how to do it accurately, right now it's just based on "visual analysis."
Last edited by counterFIT; 11-28-2016 at 01:35 AM.
Nothing new really, had a 2 year inspection last week, which meant I went back to stock front bumper, stock canister, stock hood and removed wing. Yesterday, when the weather let up, put the J's rear canister, hood and wing back on. Will put the bumper back sometime this week. Was bored and ordered a S660 Honda Access Ti shift knob and some ChargeSpeed carbon side sills.
Well technically, did prior to the inspection install the new DBA Series4000 rotors up front that are made for a Mini JWS as they are the same size as the rotors that come with the J's/Seidoya 6 pot caliper, new Dixcel HS rotors in the rear and the Seidoya RM551+ pads front and rear; these things scream performance, literally when cold they scream.
Well technically, did prior to the inspection install the new DBA Series4000 rotors up front that are made for a Mini JWS as they are the same size as the rotors that come with the J's/Seidoya 6 pot caliper, new Dixcel HS rotors in the rear and the Seidoya RM551+ pads front and rear; these things scream performance, literally when cold they scream.
So it sounds like second hand is the way to go for the b pipe, which is fine with me since it will be cheaper anyways lol. I also may consider doing custom piping because I assume that would be much cheaper. Any way I could just replace the stock resonator with aftermarket? Would it sound any better?
Another quick question... Does anyone know how to get an alignment done where they actually mess with the coilover camber? I want a slight bit of negative camber so my tires will more easily clear the front fenders but I want it done right. My BuddyClub N+ has camber adjustment but I am not sure how to do it accurately, right now it's just based on "visual analysis."
Another quick question... Does anyone know how to get an alignment done where they actually mess with the coilover camber? I want a slight bit of negative camber so my tires will more easily clear the front fenders but I want it done right. My BuddyClub N+ has camber adjustment but I am not sure how to do it accurately, right now it's just based on "visual analysis."
I initially use this one, Dynomax 24234 Race Bullet Muffler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and it make the car sounds very very deep (at idle almost like a V8),
unfortunately since I place this between the second cat and the Civic Si resonator (I have the Civic Si resonator at the stock resonator location),
I run into ground clearance problem, it scrape badly whenever I went over speed bump so I had to replace it with the thinner diameter Vibrant, which not sound as deep as this Dynomax...
Also if you could upgrade to at least 2in piping while you change your B-pipe with custom one, that will help your upper end performance.
I think the T1R B-pipe is 2 in...
Regarding alignment,
in the beginning I take it to a shop which do a decent job,
but that shop have the lift/alignment rack that is not design for lowered car and after I put my Mugen Side Skirt, I worry if I go there, the climb to their alignment rack might crack my Mugen Side Skirt...
so at first I bought this simple tool:
Specialty Products Company 81139 Magnet Adjustable Camber Gauge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I manage to adjust the camber but this tool is not as accurate as what I would like...
so I bought a second better tool:
QuickSlide Elite Series QuickTrick Wheel Alignment Machine
https://www.quicktrickalignment.com/...-elite-series/
and with this tools I manage to do camber adjustment accurately.
I don't know how easy to adjust your camber with your coilover adjustment,
but since my coilover do not come with adjustable camber plate,
I bought 2 pairs of SPC camber bolt:
Specialty Products Company 81260 Alignment Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oh, don't forget to adjust your toe in after you adjust your camber,
otherwise your tire will wear out very fast (toe misalignment will wear your tire much faster than negative camber).
My car really handle better (more stable at high speed straight and during high speed cornering) after I align them precisely...
oh, one more thing, when I change my J's racing steering wheel, the steering wheel would be slightly off center when the car go straight,
so I also use the toe adjustment to make the steering wheel center again when the car run straight...
when you change the steering wheel with the civic one, this might happened to you... (they have gear engagement on the steering wheel shaft, but if you skip gear trying to make the steering wheel center, the steering wheel is either too much to the left or too much to the right, you will understand what I am saying when you install your new steering wheel).
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 11-28-2016 at 02:01 AM.
counterFIT, any shop that does alignments should be able to alter the camber up front if your suspension has the elongated openings, much better than camber bolts (IMO). Thanks, not on so much this past year, mostly since I was not driving for practically 7 months (leadfootitis)