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That's what I'm going for power wise. I asked Web Cam Inc to put the power band high on the cams (Uninstalled) also. I'm sure I've lost a bit of power down low but I can't get to 5th and 6th gears (obvi) on the track. The engine build is planned for 8500 red line... my current red line is 7250 via my ktuner and it pulled strong until I smacked the rev limiter so...
@royg plenty of videos of my car in the racing section, or search all posts started by me...
Siphoned off the additional liter of oil the dealership added when doing the oil change.
Idiots added 4 liters when it's only 3.3
Oh, and I also filled up with prem (91 octane) as opposed to the recommended reg (87).
Not sure, but car seems to run smoother/have more power???not sure....
I only did this to see if it made any difference...
Anyone else running prem in their fit?
Last edited by BMWguy22; Nov 16, 2020 at 02:23 AM.
Siphoned off the additional liter of oil the dealership added when doing the oil change.
Idiots added 4 liters when it's only 3.3
Oh, and I also filled up with prem (91 octane) as opposed to the recommended reg (87).
Not sure, but car seems to run smoother/have more power???not sure....
I only did this to see if it made any difference...
Anyone else running prem in their fit?
i run 91 and the car runs find I’m ktune with bolt
ons the car seen to love 91 happy how the car runs I have 2014 accord and Acura TL all run 91 and the car run great 😎
Sure. Higher octane fuel will resist pre-ignition better than lower octane, and can take more pressure before igniting. Not bad in an engine with a high compression ratio. Of course it's a trade off as there could be fuel that does not get ignited and, especially on gdi engines, could cause some trouble.
Last edited by JorbNorb; Nov 16, 2020 at 04:12 AM.
Sure. Higher octane fuel will resist pre-ignition better than lower octane, and can take more pressure before igniting. Not bad in an engine with a high compression ratio. Of course it's a trade off as there could be fuel that does not get ignited and, especially on gdi engines, could cause some trouble.
ah, jeez! that's right. Totally didn't think that could be an issue.
I just got used to running prem in my is350 and 325is and figured since it worked well for those, why not the Fit too?
I haven't seen anyone post negative results from running premium, the engine will be able to advance timing a bit to take advantage of the increased knock resistance. Whether it gives a meaningful increase in power without a tune is another matter, though.
On the contrary, try running your ktuned car on 87. It also adjusts by pulling timing. Car has never seemed so sluggish. There are better additives sometimes with the brand name hi po has, like techroline etc. That's a reason, but expect any performance gains without a tune to be placebo effect for treating your car nice...
I am the only 3G to try it. Involves cutting off your shock tops on the frame, and possibly removing the windshield wipers during install on the 3G. Seamus had the template below he shared with me and I'm going to make it a go! This will seriously improve handling on the track. Very excited!
I am the only 3G to try it. Involves cutting off your shock tops on the frame, and possibly removing the windshield wipers during install on the 3G. Seamus had the template below he shared with me and I'm going to make it a go! This will seriously improve handling on the track. Very excited!
I am the only 3G to try it. Involves cutting off your shock tops on the frame, and possibly removing the windshield wipers during install on the 3G. Seamus had the template below he shared with me and I'm going to make it a go! This will seriously improve handling on the track. Very excited!
TCS caster camber plates Lucky template
☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽THIS i was thinking about fabricate but as you stated.... the cutting part... I am NOT a fan off but it is a GREATA MOD for our GK's
Pics to follow, but I got the Fastbrakes rear disc conversion installed. Parking brake adjustment took a few tries, but once everything was set up properly it turned out to be pretty good. Wish I could compare it to the Taiwan sourced kit posted here before, but Elpapas is the only one I've seen with it- if anyone south of Seattle gets it,a side by side test ought to be arranged.
My rear discs are now larger than the fronts, but it doesn't unbalance the car. While bedding the pads in, the fronts still seem to lock first. Not going to try any spirited driving until the roads are better and I get some new tires, though.
I'd love to see the pictures and get further impressions please!
Mounted a SS braided clutch line to my GK....
TBH, it might be the placebo efect..or NOT.... BUT i really felt the clutch pedal a bit firmer.....
Note: it's a pretty straightforward job, it took about 20 minutes... this including the taking out the whole OEM filter airbox/intake assembly... and being extremely careful not to drop brake fluid on any painted surface
More thoughts on the Fastbrakes rear disc conversion.
First of all, sorry to everyone for the lack of really good photos. When I put the brakes on, it was getting dark, it was raining, and my hands were filthy. At the time, I just wanted to get done and get inside, and the left side drum was really frozen on. Still, I think this is enough to get an idea of what's involved. If I had more time or enough garage space to do the work indoors, I would have preferred to get photos of all the parts included before installation.
The calipers are from an RSX or a last gen Civic Si. The most important part of the kit is the brackets to put the calipers on the axle, and they are very solid. I have no fear of them bending or otherwise failing. You also get smaller brackets to route the parking brake cable, some adapters to let the factory cable work with the calipers, and some brake lines. The brake lines are supposed to come in two sets, short ones to replace the factory rubber line that goes from the body hard line to the axle hard line, and longer ones to go from there to the caliper.
The rotors are from a 2003 Nissan Sentra, Fastbrakes drills the appropriate hole pattern for you. This shouldn't be too difficult if they don't want to provide replacements down the road, but I'd be surprised if they said no to selling another set. I asked for cross drilled and slotted, after reading that for track purposes this can cause cracking- I know I'm not going to the track, and I like the way they look. Pads are whatever you want to get for an RSX or a Civic Si, I went with Hawk HP+, after reading they're supposed to have better bite than your average street pad without having to be warmed up like some track pads.
The instructions are... adequate. They're not very detailed, and the first page tells you if you don't know what you're doing with brakes, you shouldn't be installing them. I can't really argue with that, but they're still not very good instructions. There's one photo to show how the parking brake adapter is supposed to look, but it's so dark it reminds me of trying to use the copier at the public library 20 years ago. They skip over some minor details, like the ABS sensor wire- which, if you know much about brakes, I suppose you don't need to be told. Out of seven pages, there's one on removing the drums, and one on installing the calipers.
There's a page warning about the kit overpowering the stock front brakes. I'm not sure if I really believe this, I was feeling the fronts lock up first on worn summer tires, and I'm feeling the fronts lock up first on new Blizzaks as of this afternoon. Not that I'd turn down a big brake kit in the front, but I don't think it's unsafe to drive in this condition. All I can say is the difference is like braking using only the fronts on a motorcycle vs using both front and rear- before, it felt like the fronts were doing a lot more of the work, and there was more pronounced dive under braking. Overall I'm happy with the performance.
I have mixed opinions on the overall experience, though. Some of this is my fault, I tried to save money by ordering the partial kit, which is minus calipers and pads. I had a gift card for the pads, and I got cheapo remanufactured calipers. At this point I can't tell how much of the squeaking sound is from me not knowing how to adjust the parking brake cable (fixed after a few iterations), and how much is from the calipers being low quality and sticking a bit. Some of the squeak is undoubtedly from getting pads known for squeaking.
The customer service is probably the low point. And this is a mixed bag, not a rant. I couldn't figure out how the brake lines worked, because I was only sent the short pair of lines. I got a very fast email response when I asked about it, explaining what I was supposed to have in hand, but it's been two weeks now and I don't have the other set. I had a local shop make some replacements, but they ended up being too long, so I asked Fastbrakes to send the set I didn't receive. Not sure when that's going to happen. Some of the email I get is very fast, some is noticeably less so. I asked what calipers and rotors were used when the kit first showed up on their website, and never got a response. Until I ordered the kit, anyway, and asked again.
This is frustrating in the internet age, but it seems like one of the things that just happens in a small shop. I think it's worth it, though. At the end of the day, this is a kit that uses parts easily found on the US market. If I need a new caliper, new rotors, new pads, I can go down to Autozone and get them. The balance feels good, the pedal feels good on the stock master cylinder, and as long as I get some less squeaky pads next time, there doesn't seem to be a downside.
There's two things I would do differently if given the chance- get the full kit, so I don't have to worry about the caliper quality, and get quieter pads. And if anyone from Fastbrakes ever reads this, consider putting some color photos in the instructions. Thanks to Youtube, there's a whole bunch of people out there who can do work above their regular skill level if given the right guide.
Edit- forgot to add, they fit under the factory 15" steel wheels, too.
More thoughts on the Fastbrakes rear disc conversion.
First of all, sorry to everyone for the lack of really good photos. When I put the brakes on, it was getting dark, it was raining, and my hands were filthy. At the time, I just wanted to get done and get inside, and the left side drum was really frozen on. Still, I think this is enough to get an idea of what's involved. If I had more time or enough garage space to do the work indoors, I would have preferred to get photos of all the parts included before installation.
The calipers are from an RSX or a last gen Civic Si. The most important part of the kit is the brackets to put the calipers on the axle, and they are very solid. I have no fear of them bending or otherwise failing. You also get smaller brackets to route the parking brake cable, some adapters to let the factory cable work with the calipers, and some brake lines. The brake lines are supposed to come in two sets, short ones to replace the factory rubber line that goes from the body hard line to the axle hard line, and longer ones to go from there to the caliper.
The rotors are from a 2003 Nissan Sentra, Fastbrakes drills the appropriate hole pattern for you. This shouldn't be too difficult if they don't want to provide replacements down the road, but I'd be surprised if they said no to selling another set. I asked for cross drilled and slotted, after reading that for track purposes this can cause cracking- I know I'm not going to the track, and I like the way they look. Pads are whatever you want to get for an RSX or a Civic Si, I went with Hawk HP+, after reading they're supposed to have better bite than your average street pad without having to be warmed up like some track pads.
The instructions are... adequate. They're not very detailed, and the first page tells you if you don't know what you're doing with brakes, you shouldn't be installing them. I can't really argue with that, but they're still not very good instructions. There's one photo to show how the parking brake adapter is supposed to look, but it's so dark it reminds me of trying to use the copier at the public library 20 years ago. They skip over some minor details, like the ABS sensor wire- which, if you know much about brakes, I suppose you don't need to be told. Out of seven pages, there's one on removing the drums, and one on installing the calipers.
There's a page warning about the kit overpowering the stock front brakes. I'm not sure if I really believe this, I was feeling the fronts lock up first on worn summer tires, and I'm feeling the fronts lock up first on new Blizzaks as of this afternoon. Not that I'd turn down a big brake kit in the front, but I don't think it's unsafe to drive in this condition. All I can say is the difference is like braking using only the fronts on a motorcycle vs using both front and rear- before, it felt like the fronts were doing a lot more of the work, and there was more pronounced dive under braking. Overall I'm happy with the performance.
I have mixed opinions on the overall experience, though. Some of this is my fault, I tried to save money by ordering the partial kit, which is minus calipers and pads. I had a gift card for the pads, and I got cheapo remanufactured calipers. At this point I can't tell how much of the squeaking sound is from me not knowing how to adjust the parking brake cable (fixed after a few iterations), and how much is from the calipers being low quality and sticking a bit. Some of the squeak is undoubtedly from getting pads known for squeaking.
The customer service is probably the low point. And this is a mixed bag, not a rant. I couldn't figure out how the brake lines worked, because I was only sent the short pair of lines. I got a very fast email response when I asked about it, explaining what I was supposed to have in hand, but it's been two weeks now and I don't have the other set. I had a local shop make some replacements, but they ended up being too long, so I asked Fastbrakes to send the set I didn't receive. Not sure when that's going to happen. Some of the email I get is very fast, some is noticeably less so. I asked what calipers and rotors were used when the kit first showed up on their website, and never got a response. Until I ordered the kit, anyway, and asked again.
This is frustrating in the internet age, but it seems like one of the things that just happens in a small shop. I think it's worth it, though. At the end of the day, this is a kit that uses parts easily found on the US market. If I need a new caliper, new rotors, new pads, I can go down to Autozone and get them. The balance feels good, the pedal feels good on the stock master cylinder, and as long as I get some less squeaky pads next time, there doesn't seem to be a downside.
There's two things I would do differently if given the chance- get the full kit, so I don't have to worry about the caliper quality, and get quieter pads. And if anyone from Fastbrakes ever reads this, consider putting some color photos in the instructions. Thanks to Youtube, there's a whole bunch of people out there who can do work above their regular skill level if given the right guide.
Edit- forgot to add, they fit under the factory 15" steel wheels, too.
did the caliper bracket push you rim and tire out of are you still in the clear
Dropped my FIT off at the dealer yesterday morning for a squeaking clutch.
Turns out its the clutch switch that's making noise. At least warranty is covering it.
...on a car with 38k miles...why is the switch making noise?!
My 32 year old bmw's clutch has never squeaked in the last 17 years I've owned it.
This Honduh is not impressing me currently.
Last edited by BMWguy22; Nov 25, 2020 at 11:02 PM.
I didn't measure the bracket thickness vs the drum backing plate (not sure if there's a technical term for that), but they seemed to be pretty close. The bracket is probably a few mm thicker, but not enough to give me any clearance problems on the 16" wheels.
Thank you hasdrubal for the info and pictures! It looks like the rotors have a centering ring so they register correctly on the hub, am I seeing that right?
Correct, and it looks like aluminum, so you won't have the rotors rusting on like my drums did. Half an hour with penetrating oil, a large hammer, and a torch didn't do any good. Ended up dremelling some slots into it before it would break free.
