When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes sir. Rear holes on the FG seats line up. The “inside” rear foot needs to be angled down slightly. Outside rear foot needs 1/4 in spacer under the mount. I cut the front factory mounting points off of the FG seats so I was left with flat rails in the front. Then I fabricated brackets for the front legs by mimicking the front mounting points on the fit seats. The pass seatbelt bolts into the FG seat and I swapped both Fit seatbelt receivers to the FG seats. Airbag plugs are the same, but I still have a light. I’m assuming it’s because of the weight sensor being disconnected. I’m going to get the wiring diagram for the Si and see if I can make it work. You could have also easily drilled out the front mounts from the fit seats and welded/bolted those to the flat rails on the FG seats. I rarely keep cars more than 3 years and this one needs to be able to go back to stock in a few hours. That’s the only reason I made my own brackets.
Yes sir. Rear holes on the FG seats line up. The “inside” rear foot needs to be angled down slightly. Outside rear foot needs 1/4 in spacer under the mount. I cut the front factory mounting points off of the FG seats so I was left with flat rails in the front. Then I fabricated brackets for the front legs by mimicking the front mounting points on the fit seats. The pass seatbelt bolts into the FG seat and I swapped both Fit seatbelt receivers to the FG seats. Airbag plugs are the same, but I still have a light. I’m assuming it’s because of the weight sensor being disconnected. I’m going to get the wiring diagram for the Si and see if I can make it work. You could have also easily drilled out the front mounts from the fit seats and welded/bolted those to the flat rails on the FG seats. I rarely keep cars more than 3 years and this one needs to be able to go back to stock in a few hours. That’s the only reason I made my own brackets.
Low temps here in WA dropped down to the low 30's the last few days, so switched to Blizzaks on the stock LX steels. Car looks very different with the tires tucked so far in, especially in the back. Also tweaked the driver's side camber bolt I had put in when lowering the car a few weeks ago, should eliminate the rub but now I need to adjust the toe again.
I've also sent a sample of the oil from my last oil change to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I'm curious to see how the engine is doing after 10,000 miles. I'll share their analysis once I receive the results.
GK5 -> 73k miles:
- tranny oil change (6mt) with torco mtf.
- oil & filter change [castrol edge ep 0w20 + mobil1 filter].
- underside rustproof with honeygoo for winter season.
- bled some air out of front brakes with hand pump; some air came out to my surprise; topped off accordingly; brakes work just fine.
- flipped each set left & right oe front brake pads to even out wear for the next 20k miles when I expect a brake pad change.
- topped off windshield washer.
- new oe wiper blade for driver's side only.
all done in 6 hours. not bad.
Peace out!
Flipped brake pads? Hmmm never heard about that before personally.
Yea, one pad was 2 to 3 mm and the other one 4mm so I flipped them lol. I am curious if that will reverse the wear out rate such that the thick one wears out faster now ... squeezing a bit more mileage out of them. I also removed that wear indicator since it was about 1mm away from touching the rotor. I want to go right down to the metal!
- bled some air out of front brakes with hand pump; some air came out to my surprise; topped off accordingly; brakes work just fine.
I've found that bleeding machines of any kind will draw some air in from where the hose fits onto the nipple. The result is that you get false bubbles.
I've found that bleeding machines of any kind will draw some air in from where the hose fits onto the nipple. The result is that you get false bubbles.
I almost replaced the rubber inserts in my wipers yesterday. Almost!
After calling the Parts Dept, which said 'yes, we have them, about $8 each, and we'll install them for you'.
After driving about 10 miles thru rain and heavy traffic, the guy at the counter said 'I guess we sold out. Sorry.'
I went home.......also sorry.
I almost replaced the rubber inserts in my wipers yesterday. Almost!
After calling the Parts Dept, which said 'yes, we have them, about $8 each, and we'll install them for you'.
After driving about 10 miles thru rain and heavy traffic, the guy at the counter said 'I guess we sold out. Sorry.'
I went home.......also sorry.
I just ordered winter sets for both cars - Amazon.
looks good, USDM! can u feel less engine movement during on/off throttle or..?
Thank you! To answer your question, absolutely! Engine response has significantly improved. Aside from that, gears changes feel much more solid as well.
I opted for the U70A urethane. The cabin does experience an increase in NVH, but that's to be expected.
The increase in NVH is most noticeable while idling with the A/C on and during initial take off. Besides that, it's not very noticeable at all.
I was thinking the same.
