NIGHTHAWKSI's custom turbo build progress thread
Master FitFaker. CHEA!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,317
From: Marble Falls, TX
yeah i'd think 175psi + area. best thing to do is compare cylinders for % difference. not sure how the fly by wire works but hold the pedal at wot while cranking the engine for compression. also see if there is a fuel pump fuse and remove it. if not I'd remove the center consule and unplug the connector at the tank to make sure your not washing down the cylinders with fuel during the test. hopefully everything is ok and it's just a loose connection somewhere.
started the install asturday night at 6ish. wokred until 2. started again on sunday at 11 am, finally started the car at 9pm. that install was a bitch.
but there is a problem....my idle fluctuates by about 700 RPM. at start up it revs to about 2k (normal when first cranking), then it goes down to 1000 (normal) within a couple seconds .....but it then continues to fluctuate between 800-1500 RPMs. i checked my vacuum lines..they seem to be fine.
any ideas?? i need help!
but there is a problem....my idle fluctuates by about 700 RPM. at start up it revs to about 2k (normal when first cranking), then it goes down to 1000 (normal) within a couple seconds .....but it then continues to fluctuate between 800-1500 RPMs. i checked my vacuum lines..they seem to be fine.
any ideas?? i need help!
and im done. needs a tune, BOV adjustment,maybe small oil leak at the return on the pan. and maybe an adjustment of the downpipe (i think) since its knocking slightly at low rpms.
the spool up is VERY loud...but i stopped since my a/f was a steady 14.9 at full throttle.
the spool up is VERY loud...but i stopped since my a/f was a steady 14.9 at full throttle.
I second T bolt clamps. congrats on getting it installed. looking forward to seeing how the turbo responds. if you get full boost by 4k I might have to get my butt busy and bite the bullet and boost. lol I skurred though. I drive to much. bought my fit 2/23/08 and I all ready have 40,850 miles. yikes.
I second T bolt clamps. congrats on getting it installed. looking forward to seeing how the turbo responds. if you get full boost by 4k I might have to get my butt busy and bite the bullet and boost. lol I skurred though. I drive to much. bought my fit 2/23/08 and I all ready have 40,850 miles. yikes.
well i have a problem...
the turbo makes a scraping sound after spool up, as it builds boost...and it wont really build any boost. as im driving it sppols very nicely when im in vacuum (with no abnormal sounds). just before 0 on my vacuum/boost gauge, as it actually goes into boost, it starts to make the scraping sound and wont go over 1PSI. i might be able to blame the fact that it doesnt build more then 1PSI on the internal wastegate (i maye have it set too soft), or me not wanting to keep WOT while its making the scraping sound.
any ideas on the sound?
i am using a rebuilt center housing that absolutely had no shaft play. only thing i can think of is oil starvation...the oil feed im using has a restrictor. i plan on drilling it out this afternoon when i get home from work.
EDIT: after a little reading, some DSM owners have reported a bad turbo sound when teh car wasnt up to full operating temp. i didnt drive my car until the temp dash light went off...does anyone know what temp the light on the dash goes off at? i dont think this is my problem since the turbo i am using doesnt run coolant through it....but you never know.
the turbo makes a scraping sound after spool up, as it builds boost...and it wont really build any boost. as im driving it sppols very nicely when im in vacuum (with no abnormal sounds). just before 0 on my vacuum/boost gauge, as it actually goes into boost, it starts to make the scraping sound and wont go over 1PSI. i might be able to blame the fact that it doesnt build more then 1PSI on the internal wastegate (i maye have it set too soft), or me not wanting to keep WOT while its making the scraping sound.
any ideas on the sound?
i am using a rebuilt center housing that absolutely had no shaft play. only thing i can think of is oil starvation...the oil feed im using has a restrictor. i plan on drilling it out this afternoon when i get home from work.
EDIT: after a little reading, some DSM owners have reported a bad turbo sound when teh car wasnt up to full operating temp. i didnt drive my car until the temp dash light went off...does anyone know what temp the light on the dash goes off at? i dont think this is my problem since the turbo i am using doesnt run coolant through it....but you never know.
Last edited by NIGHTHAWKSI; Apr 1, 2009 at 09:38 AM.
I second T bolt clamps. congrats on getting it installed. looking forward to seeing how the turbo responds. if you get full boost by 4k I might have to get my butt busy and bite the bullet and boost. lol I skurred though. I drive to much. bought my fit 2/23/08 and I all ready have 40,850 miles. yikes.
the turbo is starting to spool around 3k, and is defiantly is starting to build boost by 4k.
a few notes about the install:
1. the oil sender switch is in PITA location. it is difficult to get to, attatch a 3 way fitting to, as well as attatch a oil feed line. that part alone took 2+ hours. for your information, a 15/16 deep socket fits the sender switch...you do not need a special socket as most applications need.
2. i see no way of getting fog lights to fit. IC piping is touching the bumper where the fog lights would have been
3. the turbo is a tight fit. i orginally wanted it to be a top mount...that was a bad idea. definatly no room. luckily i found that out before i designed the manifold.
and as for a bottom mount, it needs to be on a slight angle away from teh block or else the turbine housing will hit the block. but if its too much of an angle, you will hit the firewall.
i tried to bottom mount the turbo with the cold side at the passenger side...no luck. it hit the firewall and brake lines. and the downpipe would have had some horrible angles on it. i wasted about 3 hours on this until i decided to flip the turbo around and try the other way.
the turbo fit prefectly bottom mounted with the cold side at the drivers side of the car. although my internal wastegate actuator hits the shifter cables. not too bad, but i got some silicone vaccuum hose , cut it lengthwise and covered the cables. then i went a little crazy and covered the cables with about 5 layers of heat tape. the last thing i want is melted shifter cables.
4. the shield for the CV boot no longer fits with the turbo because the oil drain line is in the way. i will keep an eye on it to make sure it isnt effected by heat. the hot side is about 5 inches from it and the downpipe is wrappe din heat wrap, so hopefuly it wont be an issue.
i currently have no filter on it..there is just some screen covering teh turbine with a hose clamp. i need to design an intake system. not a huse deal to me, i just wont be driving the car too much until this is done.
1. the oil sender switch is in PITA location. it is difficult to get to, attatch a 3 way fitting to, as well as attatch a oil feed line. that part alone took 2+ hours. for your information, a 15/16 deep socket fits the sender switch...you do not need a special socket as most applications need.
2. i see no way of getting fog lights to fit. IC piping is touching the bumper where the fog lights would have been
3. the turbo is a tight fit. i orginally wanted it to be a top mount...that was a bad idea. definatly no room. luckily i found that out before i designed the manifold.
and as for a bottom mount, it needs to be on a slight angle away from teh block or else the turbine housing will hit the block. but if its too much of an angle, you will hit the firewall.
i tried to bottom mount the turbo with the cold side at the passenger side...no luck. it hit the firewall and brake lines. and the downpipe would have had some horrible angles on it. i wasted about 3 hours on this until i decided to flip the turbo around and try the other way.
the turbo fit prefectly bottom mounted with the cold side at the drivers side of the car. although my internal wastegate actuator hits the shifter cables. not too bad, but i got some silicone vaccuum hose , cut it lengthwise and covered the cables. then i went a little crazy and covered the cables with about 5 layers of heat tape. the last thing i want is melted shifter cables.
4. the shield for the CV boot no longer fits with the turbo because the oil drain line is in the way. i will keep an eye on it to make sure it isnt effected by heat. the hot side is about 5 inches from it and the downpipe is wrappe din heat wrap, so hopefuly it wont be an issue.
i currently have no filter on it..there is just some screen covering teh turbine with a hose clamp. i need to design an intake system. not a huse deal to me, i just wont be driving the car too much until this is done.
typically when the turine wheel or compressor wheel hits the housing it will howl more than a scraping noise? you sure your not hearing detonation? like rocks in a folgers can? also if the internal gate is set loose the puck can rattle around causing a ticking like sound, easy check on the comp wheel is to pull your screen off and (with it cool) wiggle the shaft and make sure there is no in or out movement and then rotate it while pushing to the side and it should not contact the housing. barely if any.
typically when the turine wheel or compressor wheel hits the housing it will howl more than a scraping noise? you sure your not hearing detonation? like rocks in a folgers can? also if the internal gate is set loose the puck can rattle around causing a ticking like sound, easy check on the comp wheel is to pull your screen off and (with it cool) wiggle the shaft and make sure there is no in or out movement and then rotate it while pushing to the side and it should not contact the housing. barely if any.
the wastegate was tight...i think. and it was definatly not detonation.
when i took teh turbo off, i did notice that there were a few bolts that were not finger loose, but close to it on the housing and teh exhaust wastegate flange. but since its off now, i am going to have it looked at and tested by a professional. hopefully put it back on making sure everythign is tight and then get tuned.