ive run into a little problem with designing the IC pipe between the IC and the turbo.
i was planning on removing the windshield washer reseviour and running 2.5" pip through there, but it doesnt fit, even with the fluid bottle moved out of the way.

so i am going to go back to my plan of using 2" piping for that section, but i still think it will be very tight.

anyone have any recomendations? i know it will fit since both t1r and hks run piping though there...i woiuld just like to make it easier on me and have no rubbing issues in the future

 

I've got my washer bottle in there (jury-rigged, but in there nonetheless), but I think the T1R kit runs a 2" before the IC and 2.5" after. I could easily be mistaken here, though.

 

saw your answer in the other thread i threadjacked lol

thanks!

 

U should replicate the hks version of the pipe
cuz its very nice!! It tapers around that corner so it doesn't rub!!!
with t1r I have rubbing issues ..... It pings against the rad support and scratches the pipe... I got tired of it and jus zip tied to the AC
hose
also with the t1r kit that same pipe rubs against the back of the AC pipe and at the same time it will rub alittle on the block around the oil cap part of it

 

thanks! exactly the kind of response i was looking for.

but what do you mena by tapered? they dented/flatened the pipe in that area?

BTW i added a few new pics to the first post.

 

I plan on going underneeth myself. parallel with the oil pan and there is even threaded holes where you could mount it to.(use some sort of fiber insulating washers to prevent heat transfer) lots more room and should be a shorter run of piping. I planned on 2" piping.

 

parallel with the oil pan at which side?

i thought about going under/next to the bottom of the motor...but was afraid of damaging piping.

 

passenger side. between the pully and plastic cover(slightly below pully at the same height as oil pan). there's enough room to snake some 2" with a little room to spare. but with 2.5" its going to be tough. I was going to go with the stealth factor.

 

when the weather gets a little warmer i will jack the car up and take a good look in that area to see what i can do. id be a little concerned with the engine shifting and hitting the pipe if there isnt too much room.


yesterday progress:
i bypassed the coolant from the throttle body. my turbo needs oil and coolant, so rather than cutting coolant lines and installing a "t" fittings for the feed and return i will just re-route the lines that the throttle body used. but to be sure there will not be any problem, i bypassed the TB now so i can keep an eye on the way teh car performs the next few weeks in the cold.
i also heat taped all wiring and brake lines that are behind and above the exhaust manifold.

there isnt much to see, but i will take a few pics later and post them after im done shoveling the 5" of snow on the ground

 

anyone car to share the t1r kit base tune? please PM me if you have it and ill give you the email adress to send it to.

 

be carefull. the blue may not have the same files as the ultimate. definitly buy a wideband or tune it on a dyno with a wideband.

 

already got the wideband in the car...jsut wating on getting my test pipe back with the bung welded in it so i can plug it into the sensor. i wouldnt even think about running a turbo wihtout one...even if it was a t1r/hks kit. i have no faith in the original tuner to know the weather conditions i will be running after installed.

im very new to the FI scene and emanage, so im not sure how the conversion of the t1r map to the EMB will be, but worst case, i can manually enter the tuen into the EMB support tool and go from there.

im just hoping to get some kind of base tune to start from. my goal is to at least get the car stable to about 3k RPMs...if thats difficult, ill tehn drive to teh shop and have them finish. if its easy, ill just continue and try and tune the rest myself.

 

word...

 

you coming to huntington village tomorow???

 

maybe lol... back to topic thought

 

+20% fuel per psi and 1 degree retard per psi is a safe start usually.

 

yup yup truth!

 

alright thanks.

and as for an update....i learned how to weld on saturday. mig welding with argon gas. i welded the o2 sensor bung onto my test pipe. i forgot to take pictures before i installed it though

installed it yesterday...that thing was a bitch. the bolts at the header-> cat were a PITA. my neck is killing mew today. i also need to go back under there and adjust my hanger( o2 sensor is tapping against the car sometimes) and i think i have an exhaust leak. the leak will have to wait until i get a gasket though.

 

somethings ive noticed since installing the a/f gauge and test pipe...

- the car idles at 14.9:1 - 15.0:1
- while driving it goes went as high as 16.5:1
- normally fluctuates between 14.9:1 - 16:1
- i got a CEL most likely from the cat delete. i will use a scan gauge soon to find out. if its not a lean/rich code, then it must be from a vacuum leak from hooking up the boost gauge.


alos, my oil life is down to 0%. i was hoping to ride this oil out until i install the turbo, but it looks ike i wont be able to. within the next week i will be drilling and tapping the oil pan and installing a plug temporarily. this way i dont have to waste all the oil a month form now when i install the turbo.

if anyone has any tips, it would be greatly appreciated. i was planning to try and drill ant tap the oil pan while its still on the car, then drain the oil with any shavings in it. the filter would catch anything that might be left.
however, im not sure if there is enough room for a drill to get to the oil pan, or if anyone would highly advise against doing it this way. i know its not the best, but it saves ALOT of trouble from dropping the pan.

 

Ian im wondering if i have the same thing also...