yeah i'd think 175psi + area. best thing to do is compare cylinders for % difference. not sure how the fly by wire works but hold the pedal at wot while cranking the engine for compression. also see if there is a fuel pump fuse and remove it. if not I'd remove the center consule and unplug the connector at the tank to make sure your not washing down the cylinders with fuel during the test. hopefully everything is ok and it's just a loose connection somewhere.

 

i doubt its anything electronic. the bang i heard was LOUD...shook the car.

i removed the coils and the plugs. everyhitng looked fine so i replaced them , but did not bolt the coil down. i started the car and it idled like shit, entire motor was shaking.

i pulled the coild off the plug one by one. cylinder 1 made no difference...2,3,and 4 all made the car almost die. to eliminate the chance of it being the coil on cylinder 1, i swapped it with the coil on cylinder 2.
pulled the coils off the plugs again...same situation...cylinder 1 made no diffrence and 2,3,4 all went to stall.

im not THAT knowledgable about motors....but this almost eliminates the entire ignition system. only thing left to check for is that coil 1 is firing.

does anyone know how i can determine if the wiring going to coil 1 is working? what voltage should the harness plug be getting?

 

IIRC the coil harness has 3 wires. It'll probably be a 12v source, ground refrence, and a 5v signal, which will be a square wave signal.

It sounds like it could be a bad plug. You can crack the insulators pretty easy, and it's not always visible. Try changing them. Also, try making sure your injectors are still good. Sounds like you did a wicked backfire. I don't think you put a hole in anything, though. It takes an awful lot of energy to poke holes in engine parts.

Energy you sure won't get just starting the car.

 

lol...your making me feel better..hopefully i didnt do internal damage. im new to all this, so i jus thought of the worst case.

ill try new plugs today. check that the coils are all getting power and functioning.

i mind as well get colder plugs since i still plan on installing the turbo. does anyone know what plugs are 1 or 2 steps colder than OEM? something i can pick up at the local parts store...maybe denso?
i do not want iridium plugs...id rather change them more oftem than pay 4x as much.

 

I'm running NGK BKR7e-11, gapped to .030". Copper plug, one heat range colder than stock.

 

^ thank you. youve been very helpful.

i have done a few more tests. the spark plugs are all good. the coils are all good.
however, i think that cylinder 1 is not getting a spark. i could have possibly fried the ECU with the emanage blue. i will use a volt meter tomorow and test for current. i am borrowing a leakdown tester and compression tester froma friend...i will be doing that on thursday. hopefully all i need to replace is the ECU.

 

pictures of my manifold ready to be welded up have been added to the first post.

 

easiest way to test a coil is to put an extra plug in the coil then touch the ground strap of the plug to the valve cover/exhuast or anything metal and it should spark while the engine is running.

oh on the manifold it looks like there is a gap on cylinders 1 and 4 to the flange. with a log manifold you always want the center runners to have the gap or the flange will dog ear and be near impossible to get flat. I'm talking like 1/8" of material removal to get it flat. log mani's warp flanges like mad!

 

NIghthawksi
before you weld it up, make sure your flange is facing the right way, it's NOT symmetrical.
depending which way youre mounting the turbo, make sure that there's enough clearance between the firewall. If the compressor side of the turbo is on the driver's side, then for sure there will NOT be enough clearance.
underdog is right, it will get warped like crazy make sure you take the necessary precautions to prevent it from warping.
TEST FIT BEFORE YOU WELD!!!

 

thers no gap, but all teh runners fit evenly. 1 and 4 look like that because the 90 degree bends came with angles on the end for welding. but i will be sure to make teh middle ones a little shorter just in case.

i did that test with the spark plug/coil. cylinder 1 was not getting a spark but i know th coil/plug are good since i tested them on another cylinder. i am praying that its my ECU that fried and isnt sending a signal to cylinder 1 to fire.
i will test it for sure today at the ecu with a volt meter and test light. on the injector wire.

i have a spair OEM header laying around that i will match the flange up to and make sure its facing the correct way before i weld.

i am planning on the compressor being on the driver side.... maybe i can offest the inlet to the passenger side of the manifold and get enough room?

 

I have a hard time believing you fried the ecu. I thought for sure I had done that when I installed my kit, as I just couldn't make the car run. It turned out to be a combination of a shitty tune and bad wiring. Make sure none of your grounds worked loose.

 

ill check, but all my connections were soldered, electrical taped, then heated to seal the electrical tape.
ive done my fair share of wiring and have learned to take my time to avoid loose connections...they can be a PITA.

i will double check today though. hopefully its somthing stupid. but i am anxiously waiting to do my leadown and compression test to reassure(hopefully) that i have no internal damage.

 

explosive...you were right. i disconnected my emeange after this whole thing and used jumpers in the emanage harness plugs to eliminate the Eemanage as the problem...sure enough the jumper for ignition coil 1 was not making contact. i am still going to do a compression test to make sure whatever the bang i heard didnt bend a rod or valve.

but this is great news. i am hopefully on schedule to install the turbo next weekend.

 

lol i wouldnt even do a compression test. fuel just probably accumulated in cylinder 1 and then got ignited in the hot exhaust. it was just a backfire!! hahaha

 

thank god it was nothign serious

 

scared the shit out of me... lol.

 

A compression test is never a bad idea, especially when doing something as extreme as a turbo kit. Helps with peace of mind if nothing else. Remember to do it with the motor hot, and pull the fuel pump fuse and all spark plugs before you start. Keep your foot on the floor, and look for numbers close to 200psi with <10% difference between cylinders.

Glad you got it sorted out! I knew you wouldn't have poked a hole in anything, you have to put some serious energy into poking holes in engines!

 

exactly..id sleep better at night knowing that im doing this to a 100$ healthy engine. and the tester is at my house now..it will only take 15 minutes form start to finish. so mind as well

my emanage supplement harness comes in today and the ultimate arrives tomorow. i cant wait to install it and have my car working again. the detonation and the backfire cased me to get a little worried and i havent driven it since. im hoping that the ultimate will be much easier to program for the car.

 

" for some reason i think it will be good.."

 

I installed the emanage ultimate on friday...took 30 minutes to wire up the extra wires. Set up the parameters for the car, and now its running great. No detination! yay!!!

I can't wait for next weekend when I install everything.