don't forget to add a drop of blue lock tite(after cleaning the threads/nut) and don't over tq the shaft. its very easy to tweak the shaft. I think it's only 100 in/lbs of tq. and pay attention how your distribuiting the tq. my guy reccomends a t handle so you don't put a side load on the shaft. but you can use a standard tq wrench just hold it close to the head of the nut while tq'ing rather than at the end of the handle.

 

Way to go Man. I really would live to do my own turbo set up after the warrentie expires. I've been following this thread the last few days and I wanted to thank you for the details it makes it possible for noobs like me to see how to do one as well. Best of luck with the tuning sesion.

 

a few updates...
turbo is re-installed. no filter on it yet...im going to be designing that part today.

i went to the tuner on saturday. he convinced me to install a walbro fuel pump. so i now have a walbro 255 installed. the fitment was tight..it was about 1/4" taller than OEM causing the filter pad to be pushed against the bottom of the tank which caused it to cut off flow...sadly i only found this out on my way home from the shop when my car stopped working. the shop came to pick me up with their turbo 370z shop car on 20" mag blue volks, which i got to drive while they nursed my car back to the shop. they fixed my fuel pump and that problem is all better now.

problems im having with the install:
its not holding boost. boosts to 2 psi, then drops down to 1psi and holds steady. i do not have a vacuum leak and my internal wastegate is not loose.
for these reason i am assuming it has to either be 1) BOV adjusted too soft 2)loose vacuum hose between wastegate and turbine nipple 3) loose IC pipe clamp..but i doubt that or else i would have good vacuum.

also, the shop said it is the loudest turbo they have heard, significantly louder than the twin turbo z's that they have built. keep in mind, there is no shaft play in/out or to the side. they said the only thing that could cause this is bad bearings...however, i didnt remove the bearing when i took the turbo apart, but i did inspect them and felt the center surface and they seemed to be in perfect condition.how would i be able to tell if its bad bearings if there is no shaft play? i start to hear the sound (almost like a howl/whistle) when the vacuum gauge is reading 10. i know this is usually blamed on contact with the housing, but i have no signs of wear on either the fins or the inside of the housing. the turbo made this same sound before i took it off the first time as well...i just didnt think anything of it since i had never ridden in a turboed car and assume dit was just how it sounded when spooling.

im hoping its either just loud due to manifold design, or that there is no filer installed yet.

ill be posting a few pics today.

 

If you're not making boost, just make sure the wastegate isn't opening too early. Check the spring for tension, and check the flapper for leaks.

If it's really THAT loud I'd look towards a leak... Make sure your clamps are all good, and make sure the housings aren't leaking where they meet the CHRA.

My turbo sounds like a faint high-pitched "woosh" until my synchronic bypass valve snaps shut around 0vac, and then it sounds like a little jet engine. It really isn't a "howling" though. That's really wierd. You're sure you saw no rub marks on the inside of the housing?

Sounds like your turbo is cursed dude.

 

lol. seriously.

i did a boost leak test yesterday. wont hold any PSI. i can hear air coming out from near the turbo as fast as i put it in . there is a coupler there that was a very tight/awkward fit...which i assume is the problem. i have a new coupler and some more IC piping coming in the mail so i can redo that section and fix any leaks.
i also ordered a lower PSi wastegate so i dont overboost...i only want 5-7 psi. the one i have now is 8psi and its definatly had tension on it.

there is definatly no marks in the inside of the housings.
heres a few pictures:
disassembled...you can see the fins are in good condition and there are no marks on the turbine.

the bowl/heat shield that was filled with oil from a bad seal:

reassembled and reinstalled.

 

A coupler that isn't seated all the way can easily vent when pressure is applied. Shove that sucker on there and make sure the clamp is on the coupler, over the pipe. I had a clamp that was squeezing BETWEEN the turbo and the pipe, on the soft part of thd silicone. That sucker popped off as soon as I drove around the block

 

looks nice hope it works out for you. Those clamps need to go. Get some t-bolts.

 

boost leaks=no bueno. it can cause the turbo to overspin and cause damage. definitly get that figured out before you damage it. as for a leak between the wastegate and turbo nipple, definitly not the problem. that would cause a overboost condition.

welcome to the world of modding. working out the bugs is half to fun.

 

i will. im more concerned with geting it to run correctly before i replace somthign that is not necessary at teh moment.
well im daily driving the car, but staying out of boost obviously....very light on the throttle. im just waiting on my new lower psi wastegate and a coupler so i can redo some IC piping and clean up the really tight area that i think is causing the leak.
a leak between the wastegate and turbo nipple is still a leak...why do you think it wouldnt allow my to loose boost? if air can escape, that means im loosing psi.

 

last night i started to modify the washer bottle to fit around the IC pipe. i cut a section of it off with a cutting wheel (BTW, melted plastic that gets slung onto your hand is not fun...i have a few blisters from it). i will be designing the side i cut off with fiberglass tonight. i will take some pictures as i go.

 

If you had a leak on the supply to the wastegate, you'd have a small boost pressure leak. You would also have no wastegate. Guess which matters more.

As long as you're sure the wastegate is staying closed under pressure, forget about it. It isn't your problem. Readjust that piping and try to get the system to hold pressure before anything else.

Also, T-bolts are nice, but I'm on the stock worm clamps that came with the T1R kit and I have no problems. My wastegate source is the compressor nipple from the turbo itself and I lose < 1psi between the compressor and my IM.

 

You successfully boosted yet dude?

 

I had a busy weekend so i didnt get to work on it yet.
but i did recieve a few couplers and a 5psi internal wastegate and i will be definatly installing them today. hopefully redesigned piping will fix the leak and the wastegate will lower the total hp output...i want the engine to last a while.

there will be an update tomorow.

 

Always better to have a lighter wastegate with a boost controller than be limited to too much boost.

...I want a MBC now. I think I'll buy one for my 21st birthday present to myself.

 

my turbo is shot. wear on the inside of the housing and minor wear on the wheel. no idea why..i bought the turbo "rebuilt" (looked lihe it) even though the oil seals werent good. very pisseda bout this. it was the second turbo i bought. ive learned my lesson and i will just buy new this time.

 

are you serious dude... and which turbo are you going to buy brand new and what size ?

 

i dont know yet. it will be a little while before i finish. i hav ea vaction coming up and a few other things that i need to save soem money for.

im probably going ot end up getting a GT1548 or a gt20 turbo.

 

turbo kit is FS!

 

you not bying the new Turbo...

 

no. ive layed under my car for too many hours. im jsut sick of it. luckily whoever get teh can just rebuild the turbo and start boosting.

if you want it, ill give you a deal.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/sale...turbo-kit.html