Got these in the mail!

The picture shows a weird looking reflection in the big front emblem. In reality they are perfect.

FML the wife took the car this morning. The install will have to wait. Have to go find the install thread now.

------Should I drill new holes (and add a touch of adhesive glue) or snip the pins off the new emblem?-----decisions decisions.

The RS badge has "glitter" in the red. I wish all the emblems matched perfectly!!! But no matter.

Oh how many horses do the emblems add I forget....I think it's 5.

I never got this excited over the mail man coming at my door before....I feel like I'm twelve...Progress sway bar next. Then the PRM intake.

 

If I remember correctly from my instal, the pins on the new emblems are just straight, no like "bump" on the end of them that would hold them in a new hole. You'd have to have something behind the black plastic that the pins would actually snap into. Maybe I'm remembering wrong... I just cut them off though and used the adhesive on the back plus some heavy duty plastic epoxy. Just make sure you get them centered the first time you put it on, because it won't be moving around!

 

Yes you are correct the pins are straight and probably wouldn't add any strength to the install after some thought. Epoxy glue...hmmmm I might have some "no more nails" construction adhesive laying around...might do the trick.

Thanks mate!

 

I'm envious. I'd put an image up of the drives I usually take my fit on around here in California, but I think we all already know what a straight line looks like.

 

hope they don't glow in the dark

 

 

Subwoofers! Never had 'em, always wanted 'em, love 'em. Also finished "kustom" rear shelf to hide everything.

Now I just need to replace the stock door speakers b/c the treble can't keep up.

 

A minor change, but I bought a nice custom window shade to protect my dash (and the interior temperature) from the HOT Texas sun.

Next up? Unsure, trying to decide if I want to save up for some new wheels to replace my stock plastic caps or get me a Mugen rear wing spoiler.

 

Ordered Progress RSB, Megan OE-RS axle back.

No sound clips of the Megan out there, so we'll see how it goes. It looks nice and is not very expensive, so if it's too loud for me, surely someone here will want it. Call dibs now!

Was disappointed that the rear rates on the Swifts didn't seem to make the car rotate a whole lot better, so RSB it is.

 

I'm planning on adding that sub, but I'm going to get the one that's pre-mounted in the Pioneer shallow mount enclosure.

Sound good? I don't want booming base you can hear for two miles, I care more about accuracy.

 

Please post audio clips once you get it installed if possible...would love to hear how it sounds.

 

I plan on at least trying. All my recording devices suck, but I also have a bunch of pro audio recording gear that would be fun to set up with a laptop recording. haha Not likely.

 

Got this in the mail today.

Amazon.com: ElmScan 5 Compact USB OBD-II Scan Tool & OBDWiz Engine Diagnostic Software (423001): Automotive

Cleared some codes that were stored from when I ran the car without a cat on.

 

Replaced the brake fluid...but did not take pictures during the job.

Left a posting under the DIY section.

The next DIY is to replace pads and rotor, as soon as the parts arrive.

 

Came home from work, gave her a bath, wiped down and polished the interior!

 

went to home depot to pick up a knockout plug for my centercaps and ended up getting the screw caps from the lowes diy.

also i messed up my top lid/glove box used an alchol wipe and now theres a big stain? its like 80 bucks to replace i might just vinyl cover it in cf hasnt someone done that here? how much did it cost?

 

I would be very glad for a comprehensive DIY brake pad replacement. I'm always afraid of coming to a point where I would have to bleed / adjust the brakes and that's when I loose my nerve to do it. I would love to be able to remove my tires and be able to clean my own brakes regularly and have the confidence to change the pads when needed.

If you don't skimp on this DIY this FitFreak would be very happy

 

Been reading around on the DIY front lip. Seemed legit enough. So put one on and did a mini-photoshoot.


Also changed the horn out to the honda accord low horn and made a stupid video with it last night.

*meep meep*

 

After 3+ years of ownership I just cracked the driver-side door panel up near the window with my elbow getting in to the car. Argh.

It's really hot and I forgot to crack the windows so I think the plastic was extra soft and bent more than usual when pressed on. Bummer.

 

Hmmm. Took my newly swifted car to an off-ramp that I benchmark with and the car's behavior was kind of crazy. Now, I've been messing with tire pressures, trying to get as much response out of the front continentals as possible (they are softer than the dunlops) and running a similar pressure to what is recommended for the Si under "fast driving" of ~35F 32R, taking advantage up the increased rear spring rates to hold it in place despite the oversteer equation with the tires.

I had to enter a little slow because of traffic, so I tried to speed up smoothly and then let off and see how it took it. Well, it spun the tires really easily up front when it normally wouldn't have been a problem, and then I got pretty wild lift-off oversteer, sending my car into a light drift at speeds I could take on the stock tires while yawning, much less the 205s.

I guess the car really does need an alignment. It seemed that as the body rolled, the negative front camber caused it to really hook up all of a sudden, yet at slow speed, couldn't put down any power. Obviously I botched the corner cause I couldn't go at it smoothly with cars in the way, but now I'm questioning whether or not to put the RSB I ordered on. If I had to make an emergency maneuver in the rain, I don't think that setup would fare well. I'll try going back to 33F/33R and see how it goes before making any decisions, then get an alignment, then put on the bar. I think it's possible that the increased front pressure is also increasing grip when the sidewall rolls over at speed, compared to the factory recommended pressures. This just creates a massive front grip transition under cornering load.