No need to do anything out back. Already running Dixcel slotted rotors and ProjectMu HC+ pads out back. The braking was simply incredible out on circuit, maybe too good as I need to rework my already late braking to even later.

Won't get the car back till February most likely, just dropped it off yesterday afternoon and they are quite busy and holidays are coming up. Also waiting on the valve springs and retainers, were just shipped the other day.

 

Ah, that's good. No changes to the rear, use money to get Swift Mach springs to reduce nose dive during hard braking.

When it gets back, the "slow beast" will be a not-so-slow slow beast.

 

This is old. But i wasn't paying attention, so here's some FYI.

The gen 3 fit/jazz in my locale does not use the earthdreams engine. Don't know why, but we still get the L15A7 on the gen 3's. Different looking ECU though but probably similar maps. And it has that econo button that people are so excited about.

 

Session 1 fastest...

Session 2 fastest...

 

^ Oooooo! Sweeeet! Very nice! The track i mean. Your driving, well, it's alright. Not too bad.

May i assume that the Cusco front /rear anti-roll bars didn't ruin the handling? Was it better?

 

I've had the Cusco fr/rr bars on for a few track days. I don't feel the handling was ruined, but as already stated the rear was a bit nervous on Suzuka. Even had the wing set at full downforce setting. Suspension dampening was set at 13 clicks from soft front and 15 clicks rear. The other circuits it felt quite good.

 

Thank you for confirming that i haven't lost my mind. People were saying that the front ARB would ruin handling, that the rear ARB was all i needed. Well, on my car, the rear ARB made the rear quite jiggly on anything but the smoothest roads. A rear strut bar took care of that.

 

Hi 555sexydrive,

I really need your help,
I understand that you are customer of J's Racing,
Could you please kindly ask the J's Racing people,
what is the size of their Brake Master Cylinder Kit for GE?
I mean the Bore Diameter?
I really need a 1in bore diameter,
and i just bought a Honda Civic Type R (FD2) brake master cylinder brand new from Japan,
only to find out that it is only 13/16in...

I mean this one:
https://www.jsracing.co.jp/js2/index...3-VS&xKEYWORD=

Item Number:
Thank You so much.

 

BMW, the J's brake master cylinder looks to be no different from the stock one visually, but since I had it installed, I have yet to feel the same spongy feel after a circuit run that I was feeling with the stock one and it wasn't air in the system as I could bleed it right after and no change till it would cool down a few hours later.

Sad note to my car, well sort of to my wallet, my mission is completely HOSED. I'm not sure what actually happened, did the Suzuka day, dropped the car off to J's, they pulled the drain plug the other day on the mission to get started on the rebuild of the engine and out came a long ass piece of metal on the magnetic drain bolt. No idea how much damage, but the picture made it look quite bad and Kaz told me the car was not going into any gear. After the first rebuild back in June, I was happy that 2nd was not jumping around, but to be honest, something didn't feel quite right with 1st and 2nd, but I just ignored it because it didn't seem like anything major and it was a VAST improvement to what it was. So J's is going to rip open the mission and see if the case itself is salvageable as well as the LSD, if it is not, I'm most likely going to swap to a 6MT running gears 1-3 from the Fit and 4-6 from the CR-Z with a special final drive and might move to a 1.5way LSD from the current 1way.

 

Very unfortunate

 

Yeesh. That is no good dude.

 

So Kaz sent me more photos after opening it up. It seems the bearings are what really shit the bed and from there more damage. The LSD will need to be rebuilt and the internal case is damaged. So I've got 2 price points, first to rebuild the 5MT or swap to a 6MT and I'm leaning heavily that way even though it is over twice as much. Just seeing how much quicker the 6MTs are on circuit is the main reason for this. Though I need to talk to my wallet and see if it will have any objections. Engine, tranny and sussy rebuild is costing me about 3/4 a new GK...OUCH, but a new GK would be sucking on my ass out on circuit when it is all said and done.

 

New Fit owner here and I just started digging through this thread, quite a build! 555, that last pic would not make me happy and you seem not to upset about.

Question about J's as I am new to Fit's and even looking at tuning Honda's, where are they located? I am curious because I will be in Japan in March and, if my work schedule allows, I would love to try and get by there. Thanks!

 

How goes it SLVR6? They are located in Osaka, Ibaraki section of Osaka. 34.829012, 135.563646 are the coordinates.

About not being upset, well I'm a little bit only because I just had the mission rebuilt in June, but I think the main bearings were missed as being ready to go. So that was just wasted money as it could have went towards the 6MT swap. I'm all about playing this car game though and I use the crap out of the car quite hard, so these things should be expected. Appreciate it.

 

Not bad 555, thank you for the location of J's. That's actually only about 30 minutes from where I normally stay in Osaka. I will have to try to get over there.

Curious about what you mentioned about CRZ gears, are those taller? I am actually shocked how the gearing is on the GK. Reminds me of the change in 5MT for the Integra to the 6MT in the RSK.

It's nice to see what can be done with these cars, though it will be a few years until I start working on anything!

 

The CR-Z uses the first gen JDM GE8 Fit's 4th (1.054) and 5th (.853) and moves to a .688 6th, but uses a 4.11 final drive whereas the newer GE8 6MT (JDM and USDM) uses the original USDM GE8 final drive of 4.62, but the 6th gear in that mission is the same as the USDM 5th gear (reason many that have driven both see no difference in revs in 6th) which is a .727 and 4th is the same between the USDM 5MT and the JDM/USDM 6MT at .927. So using the first gen GE8 or CR-Z 4th and 5th is a closer gear set and using the CR-Z 6th slightly lowers revs when cruising, but out on circuit if/when can use 6th at a full tilt shift from 5th will see the revs drop to a meatier part of the power band dropping to around 5600 versus 6050 (give or take) for more grunt.

Easier if just listed out.

JDM GE8 5MT gearing 4.29 final, 3.461, 1.869, 1.303, 1.054 and .853
USDM GE8 5MT gears 4.62 final, 3.308, 1.869, 1.303, .949 and .727
JDM/USDM GE8 6MT 4.62 final, 3.461, 1.869, 1.235, .949, .809 and .727
JDM/USDM CR-Z 6MT 4.11 final, 3.142, 1.869, 1.303, 1.054, .853 and .688

 

I can see now why you would want to use the CR-Z 4, 5, 6! A bit more grunt in 4 and 5 and a little more overdrive in 6th.

 

Is the 6MT more durable than the 5MT? Or similarly fragile?

 

Honestly, I can't say either way, but it seems the bearings were on their way out and I'm not sure if Seeker actually replaced those on the first rebuild. Like I stated, something didn't feel quite right with 1st and 2nd after the rebuild, so I'm leaning towards they weren't replaced and it was missed that they were on their last legs. Kaz told me, after their rebuild it will be the most beautiful mission I've ever used. It might be fluff, but I will say it made me chuckle at the thought of it being true.

Yeah, the current gearing in mine now is nice 3~5, the 1-2 spacing is quite lacking (all Fits are this way though) and it was even worse when I was using the stock final of 4.29 versus the MFactory 4.68.

 

Received some more pics from Kaz of J's recently. All conrod bearings were scarred. It looks like I may be experiencing some starvation while out on circuit. I haven't really heard of Ls having oiling issues like the first gen Ks. I experienced that first hand in my old 5R, cylinder 2 and 3 the bearings were roasted during a gymkhana event. It's actually a good thing I decided to do this rebuild, because it could have been much worse if the bearings failed completely. The crank is still in good condition. Think I am going to have to seek out a baffling system. I know Spoon offers one for the CR-Z, so maybe I can talk them into producing one for the Fit. Though I would prefer a trap-door setup like I had in the 5R after its rebuild. Joe McCarthy from Prototype Racing had a nice setup and that is what I went with. Doubtful I will find anything remotely similar though.






I also pulled out my old DC5R titanium knob yesterday (used it on the old AP2 as well) and decided to give it a bit of color. Used the oven set on self-clean and ran it for about 75 minutes. Would of done it longer, but was leaving the house and just didn't want it going while not there, just in case. After work today I will go pick up a torch and bring some more heat to it. I don't really want it blue blue like my J's one, just a bit more blue and maintain the sort of matte finish it has. Also need to get a thin-tipped paint brush and paint the numbers back to red. Getting ready for that 6MT.