I agree that it doesn't make sense and every rwd car I've owned you do the opposite and stiffen your bars for increased performance. I am going on the advice of an experienced fit racer who endurance races his fit through 9 hour sessions. We'll see. Thanks for the videos though!

 

Also, in the first video you posted at 2:15 the narrator, in explaining "how sway bars work" says, to reduce understeer, "you can remove the front sway bar..." I knew there'd be some opinions on this, but "I'm not sure you understand" is a little insulting. I'm sure you've noticed the understeer when you've been out on the track with your fit. Cheers!

 

I not trying to insult you.

From my experience (autocross) when running stock classes where stock OEM springs are required people who were trying to corner balance their car would use adjustable sway bar end links. You have coil overs so you don't need to half a*s attempt to corner balance with adjustable end links.

In regard to the video. I took it as an extreme to make a point about reducing understeer. Myself I went with the biggest rear bar I could find. As in the video; it locks up the rear and lifts the rear tire during hard cornering. Not an ideal situation. One of the down falls of running a stock class where stock OEM springs are required and only one sway bar change is allowed.

I know guys who have went smaller front bar, but I don't know anyone who ever totally removes the front bar.

Personally if I was in your situation I'd run the biggest front bar I could, and change spring rates and alignment to eliminate the understeer. But I'm just an autocrosser, so it may be different?

 

I am competing in HFF challenge Saturday. The proof is in the pudding. I am running 10k front 8k rear spring rates and BC custom valves the shocks to match. I would love to cross corner balance the car if I had the scales. I need a local bro to hook me up. I bought the adjustable end links when I was just presuming the "extreme low kit" BC coilovers would put the bar in an unnatural position with OEM links. After purchase and consultation with chassis builder they were rendered unnecessary. Never planned or heard of corner balancing with end links but there is adjustment so... appreciate the insight and experience. Try an HPDE event, you get a lot more seat time for your day vs. Autocross. And PCA and NASA are extremely safety first oriented clubs.

 

I wouldn't do it, but have seen it done in stock autocross classes. Basically preloading with the sway bar to corner balance. Normally the adjustable end links would be to make the bar "neutral" after the car was corner balanced, not preloaded to one side after corner balancing. Even though my friend has scales, I don't bother with corner balance. IMO It's just a compromise on a production based car.

For some good reading:

Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Corner Weights


BTW: No interest in HPDE or track days. If I did I'd just buy a $4K Miata. Something that was expendable.

 

Some people in other communities are really into corner balancing. I know some people who won't get a professional alignment on a car without commensurate ballast added to the driver's seat. Our options are pretty limited with no camber adjustment available (stock, I do have camber bolts), no caster adjustment unless you want to go crazy (I do, coming soon), and no camber/toe adjustment in the rear (I have shims for both). And yes, Miata is the answer when it comes to racing, and quite often it doesn't matter what the question is haha. I want to graduate to wheel-to-wheel racing, and I will probably end up in a Spec Miata someday. Of course they are ~$35,000 to get in there and I still need to make my first mill LOL.

*** Sorry for all the race talk in the WDYDTYGKFT thread, but hopefully it is valuable information to all who are interested in what these beautys can do. Thanks to Rob_H for the insightful articles and candid opinions. Prost y'all!

 

Washed it😄

 

I love it. makes the fit way more fun

 

WOW!! How long did that take?

 

It took me about 6 hours total I only put the driver seat back in
I had help from my cousin too

 

Me too! Lol!

 

For weight reduction?

 

Where the left front fog light used to be

Also drilled out the fake grill

Just remove 1 screw from the fender well and get rid of that resonator. Then you can push the tabs in on the black housing. Then remove the connector and two screws on the fog light.

I found this 4" to 3" coupler at home depot which perfectly mated the weapon r hose to the fog light housing.
IATs are about 25* cooler with it while driving vs. Sitting still so it's working!

 

Yes and more space!

 

I saw some of your build
We have the same color fit!!!
Youre planning on sound deadening the fit right?

 

I'm almost done. Still a bit more to do.

 

Looks sharp in white��

 

Dear my bad. Forgot to quote but was referring to burtch07’s White Sport

 

So yesterday I attempted to replace my injectors due to the dreaded misfire engine code the existing injectors are causing. Took them out and saw that the injectors were indeed dirty which i think is causing the short in one if not all the injectors. Ran into an issue getting the new ones in. Found out these direct injection injectors require the teflon seal at the tip to be properly set with the appropriate tools. Some folks I hear have successfully installed the injectors without the tool. Now I am on the fence about how I should go about it... anyways, was bumbed out i couldnt complete the replacement, but got other things done, replaced the fuel Joint pipe, cleaned the throttle body and replaced the gasket..

Now gotta wait til this coming weekend to make another attempt at installing the injectors..

anyone know if there is an injector seal kit for the cheap so I can get this done already? Not sure if shops loan this specific tool... aint tryna pay Honda $300 for the tool neither..

Someone help me get this done so I can make it to this year's TFC Annual meet in Central Cali!

cheers!

 

I never heard about that seal seating, but I hope you find a solution.