What did you do to your GE fit today?
Replacing the stock resonator with aftermarket one will make it sound different, ...
I initially use this one, Dynomax 24234 Race Bullet Muffler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and it make the car sounds very very deep (at idle almost like a V8),
unfortunately since I place this between the second cat and the Civic Si resonator (I have the Civic Si resonator at the stock resonator location),
I run into ground clearance problem, it scrape badly whenever I went over speed bump so I had to replace it with the thinner diameter Vibrant, which not sound as deep as this Dynomax...
Also if you could upgrade to at least 2in piping while you change your B-pipe with custom one, that will help your upper end performance.
I think the T1R B-pipe is 2 in...
Regarding alignment,
in the beginning I take it to a shop which do a decent job,
but that shop have the lift/alignment rack that is not design for lowered car and after I put my Mugen Side Skirt, I worry if I go there, the climb to their alignment rack might crack my Mugen Side Skirt...
so at first I bought this simple tool:
Specialty Products Company 81139 Magnet Adjustable Camber Gauge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I manage to adjust the camber but this tool is not as accurate as what I would like...
so I bought a second better tool:
QuickSlide Elite Series QuickTrick Wheel Alignment Machine
https://www.quicktrickalignment.com/...-elite-series/
and with this tools I manage to do camber adjustment accurately.
I don't know how easy to adjust your camber with your coilover adjustment,
but since my coilover do not come with adjustable camber plate,
I bought 2 pairs of SPC camber bolt:
Specialty Products Company 81260 Alignment Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oh, don't forget to adjust your toe in after you adjust your camber,
otherwise your tire will wear out very fast (toe misalignment will wear your tire much faster than negative camber).
My car really handle better (more stable at high speed straight and during high speed cornering) after I align them precisely...
oh, one more thing, when I change my J's racing steering wheel, the steering wheel would be slightly off center when the car go straight,
so I also use the toe adjustment to make the steering wheel center again when the car run straight...
when you change the steering wheel with the civic one, this might happened to you... (they have gear engagement on the steering wheel shaft, but if you skip gear trying to make the steering wheel center, the steering wheel is either too much to the left or too much to the right, you will understand what I am saying when you install your new steering wheel).
I initially use this one, Dynomax 24234 Race Bullet Muffler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and it make the car sounds very very deep (at idle almost like a V8),
unfortunately since I place this between the second cat and the Civic Si resonator (I have the Civic Si resonator at the stock resonator location),
I run into ground clearance problem, it scrape badly whenever I went over speed bump so I had to replace it with the thinner diameter Vibrant, which not sound as deep as this Dynomax...
Also if you could upgrade to at least 2in piping while you change your B-pipe with custom one, that will help your upper end performance.
I think the T1R B-pipe is 2 in...
Regarding alignment,
in the beginning I take it to a shop which do a decent job,
but that shop have the lift/alignment rack that is not design for lowered car and after I put my Mugen Side Skirt, I worry if I go there, the climb to their alignment rack might crack my Mugen Side Skirt...
so at first I bought this simple tool:
Specialty Products Company 81139 Magnet Adjustable Camber Gauge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I manage to adjust the camber but this tool is not as accurate as what I would like...
so I bought a second better tool:
QuickSlide Elite Series QuickTrick Wheel Alignment Machine
https://www.quicktrickalignment.com/...-elite-series/
and with this tools I manage to do camber adjustment accurately.
I don't know how easy to adjust your camber with your coilover adjustment,
but since my coilover do not come with adjustable camber plate,
I bought 2 pairs of SPC camber bolt:
Specialty Products Company 81260 Alignment Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oh, don't forget to adjust your toe in after you adjust your camber,
otherwise your tire will wear out very fast (toe misalignment will wear your tire much faster than negative camber).
My car really handle better (more stable at high speed straight and during high speed cornering) after I align them precisely...
oh, one more thing, when I change my J's racing steering wheel, the steering wheel would be slightly off center when the car go straight,
so I also use the toe adjustment to make the steering wheel center again when the car run straight...
when you change the steering wheel with the civic one, this might happened to you... (they have gear engagement on the steering wheel shaft, but if you skip gear trying to make the steering wheel center, the steering wheel is either too much to the left or too much to the right, you will understand what I am saying when you install your new steering wheel).
counterFIT, any shop that does alignments should be able to alter the camber up front if your suspension has the elongated openings, much better than camber bolts (IMO). Thanks, not on so much this past year, mostly since I was not driving for practically 7 months (leadfootitis)
Leadfootitis. I'll remember that one.
You ran over a plastic bag and some of it melted onto the exhaust. Looks just like my old car a couple years ago when that happened. By the time I could stop it was already melted and fused onto the pipe.
I just wake up and check my email and turn out Noblesse still can custom made the testpipe/racing converter/2nd cat delete for me
so I just paid for it, but delivery will be 6 weeks instead of 4 weeks due to new year holiday in Japan... but that's ok because I trust they will deliver as promise.
Here is the link:
?????????????????????????????? - Web Shop NOBLESSE????????????????????
They have 3 level of finished/quality and I bought the highest quality one which is the "SP" version because they add hand polishing to remove the weld where the flange meet the pipe for extra smooth air flow plus the also hand polished the outer stainless steel surface for super nice finish.
Here is the SP version explanation:
http://www.noblesse-japan.com/spfp.html
With shipping to US, they will cost approximately 3 times compare to T1R one shipped from Canada, but that's ok, as long as I am happy
I will add (weld) HJS 200 cell high flow cat to this Noblesse pipe, plus 2 more AEM bung for AEM UEGO sensor and Defi Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) Meters.
Initially I want to buy the HKS CR-Z Metal Catalyzer but realized their RIGID design with no flexible joint and no spring joint (like the factory OEM) will make them very vulnerable to cracking, and it already happened to item9 at CRZ forum...
so I look for another alternative,...
and I think this Noblesse with HJS Cat Converter should be even better quality/design wise than the HKS one.
Plus, I can combine factory Honda OEM header/down pipe (if I have too) with this Noblesse pipe.
Here is the pictures (many more pictures on their website if you click the link):
http://www.noblesse-japan.com/spfp.html
so I just paid for it, but delivery will be 6 weeks instead of 4 weeks due to new year holiday in Japan... but that's ok because I trust they will deliver as promise.
Here is the link:
?????????????????????????????? - Web Shop NOBLESSE????????????????????
They have 3 level of finished/quality and I bought the highest quality one which is the "SP" version because they add hand polishing to remove the weld where the flange meet the pipe for extra smooth air flow plus the also hand polished the outer stainless steel surface for super nice finish.
Here is the SP version explanation:
http://www.noblesse-japan.com/spfp.html
With shipping to US, they will cost approximately 3 times compare to T1R one shipped from Canada, but that's ok, as long as I am happy
I will add (weld) HJS 200 cell high flow cat to this Noblesse pipe, plus 2 more AEM bung for AEM UEGO sensor and Defi Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) Meters.
Initially I want to buy the HKS CR-Z Metal Catalyzer but realized their RIGID design with no flexible joint and no spring joint (like the factory OEM) will make them very vulnerable to cracking, and it already happened to item9 at CRZ forum...
so I look for another alternative,...
and I think this Noblesse with HJS Cat Converter should be even better quality/design wise than the HKS one.
Plus, I can combine factory Honda OEM header/down pipe (if I have too) with this Noblesse pipe.
Here is the pictures (many more pictures on their website if you click the link):
http://www.noblesse-japan.com/spfp.html
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 11-28-2016 at 10:26 AM.
Edit: Especially interested to see how this compares to T1R
Last edited by rise; 11-28-2016 at 03:52 PM. Reason: Spelling and such
Well,
Noblesse do offer 2 more cheaper version:
The one made of steel and painted black only 18,050 yen
?????????????????????? - Web Shop NOBLESSE????????????????????
and the Stainless Steel but NON SP version for 28,500 yen
?????????????????????? - Web Shop NOBLESSE????????????????????
I bought the SP version just because I love my car too much
Here is another link where they compare the weight with stock Cat Converter and many more:
VŒ^‚e‚h‚si‚f‚d‚Wj—pƒtƒƒ“ƒgƒpƒCƒv‚ÌÚ×
I am curious what is the OUTER diameter of the pipe for Noblesse,
the T1R is 2in, the Weapon r is 2.25in, there are a brand for CR-Z that
is no longer made that was 2.5in... the HKS Metal Catalyzer is 2in...
Noblesse do offer 2 more cheaper version:
The one made of steel and painted black only 18,050 yen
?????????????????????? - Web Shop NOBLESSE????????????????????
and the Stainless Steel but NON SP version for 28,500 yen
?????????????????????? - Web Shop NOBLESSE????????????????????
I bought the SP version just because I love my car too much
Here is another link where they compare the weight with stock Cat Converter and many more:
VŒ^‚e‚h‚si‚f‚d‚Wj—pƒtƒƒ“ƒgƒpƒCƒv‚ÌÚ×
I am curious what is the OUTER diameter of the pipe for Noblesse,
the T1R is 2in, the Weapon r is 2.25in, there are a brand for CR-Z that
is no longer made that was 2.5in... the HKS Metal Catalyzer is 2in...
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 11-29-2016 at 12:08 AM.
Hi Connor,
How is your front JDM conversion progress?
I wasn't planing to spent anything for my car until next year
but somehow I manage to get a new "slightly" better paying job few weeks ago so I decide to celebrate it
plus I worry that Noblesse no longer make this part for our GE,
so I decide to buy it while they are still available... plus the Yen to USD exhange rate is improving...
the other thing that I really really worry might not be in production soon is the Recaro SR-7 ASM Limited Ruby...
but I don't have enough money to buy them now...
hopefully I can buy them before they no longer produced...
I watch ASM blog each day,
and today they just post this article:
RECARO Blog@|@‰¡•lŽs’†‹æ‚`‚r‚l@ƒŒƒJƒƒV[ƒgê–å“X@|@
I had been wanting them for the past few years...
this picture posted by ASM on their blog today,
make me want them (a pair) even more...
so gorgeous...
How is your front JDM conversion progress?
I wasn't planing to spent anything for my car until next year
but somehow I manage to get a new "slightly" better paying job few weeks ago so I decide to celebrate it
plus I worry that Noblesse no longer make this part for our GE,
so I decide to buy it while they are still available... plus the Yen to USD exhange rate is improving...
the other thing that I really really worry might not be in production soon is the Recaro SR-7 ASM Limited Ruby...
but I don't have enough money to buy them now...
hopefully I can buy them before they no longer produced...
I watch ASM blog each day,
and today they just post this article:
RECARO Blog@|@‰¡•lŽs’†‹æ‚`‚r‚l@ƒŒƒJƒƒV[ƒgê–å“X@|@
I had been wanting them for the past few years...
this picture posted by ASM on their blog today,
make me want them (a pair) even more...
so gorgeous...
Noblesse should be 50mm.
Just received a message from Kaz and the low mount stays for the wing are being shipped this afternoon. From J's data, on Fuji's main straight they saw a 10km/h improvement with the lower mount compared to stock without a loss of down force in the corners. Win and win.
Just received a message from Kaz and the low mount stays for the wing are being shipped this afternoon. From J's data, on Fuji's main straight they saw a 10km/h improvement with the lower mount compared to stock without a loss of down force in the corners. Win and win.
Hi Connor,
How is your front JDM conversion progress?
I wasn't planing to spent anything for my car until next year
but somehow I manage to get a new "slightly" better paying job few weeks ago so I decide to celebrate it
plus I worry that Noblesse no longer make this part for our GE,
so I decide to buy it while they are still available... plus the Yen to USD exhange rate is improving...
the other thing that I really really worry might not be in production soon is the Recaro SR-7 ASM Limited Ruby...
but I don't have enough money to buy them now...
hopefully I can buy them before they no longer produced...
I watch ASM blog each day,
and today they just post this article:
RECARO Blog@|@‰¡•lŽs’†‹æ‚`‚r‚l@ƒŒƒJƒƒV[ƒgê–å“X@|@
I had been wanting them for the past few years...
this picture posted by ASM on their blog today,
make me want them (a pair) even more...
so gorgeous...
How is your front JDM conversion progress?
I wasn't planing to spent anything for my car until next year
but somehow I manage to get a new "slightly" better paying job few weeks ago so I decide to celebrate it
plus I worry that Noblesse no longer make this part for our GE,
so I decide to buy it while they are still available... plus the Yen to USD exhange rate is improving...
the other thing that I really really worry might not be in production soon is the Recaro SR-7 ASM Limited Ruby...
but I don't have enough money to buy them now...
hopefully I can buy them before they no longer produced...
I watch ASM blog each day,
and today they just post this article:
RECARO Blog@|@‰¡•lŽs’†‹æ‚`‚r‚l@ƒŒƒJƒƒV[ƒgê–å“X@|@
I had been wanting them for the past few years...
this picture posted by ASM on their blog today,
make me want them (a pair) even more...
so gorgeous...
My toyota bB is almost arriving in vancouver, so it will be ready to go in time to fill in for the fit while it gets a 1 month make over
Haha excuses, i hope you like the parts though!
My next plan after jdm front is already in place! Gotta keep the ball rolling lol.
I've never really wanted new seats, until I saw this picture. Wow, those are nice.
EDIT: After discovering that these cost $2200 EACH, I am no longer interested
EDIT: After discovering that these cost $2200 EACH, I am no longer interested
Last edited by counterFIT; 11-29-2016 at 01:25 PM.
it you like the SR-7 model,
Recaro had several NON ASM version,
and they start at much more manageable $846.47 per seat for the SR-7 KK100 version at Nengun
before shipping cost which will be around $300 to $400 per seat.
which mean total cost of approximately $1,200 shipped to US per seat.
here is the link:
https://www.nengun.com/recaro/sr-7-series
The SR-7 KK100 looks like this:
Hi counterFIT,
it you like the SR-7 model,
Recaro had several NON ASM version,
and they start at much more manageable $846.47 per seat for the SR-7 KK100 version at Nengun
before shipping cost which will be around $300 to $400 per seat.
which mean total cost of approximately $1,200 shipped to US per seat.
here is the link:
https://www.nengun.com/recaro/sr-7-series
The SR-7 KK100 looks like this:
it you like the SR-7 model,
Recaro had several NON ASM version,
and they start at much more manageable $846.47 per seat for the SR-7 KK100 version at Nengun
before shipping cost which will be around $300 to $400 per seat.
which mean total cost of approximately $1,200 shipped to US per seat.
here is the link:
https://www.nengun.com/recaro/sr-7-series
The SR-7 KK100 looks like this:
Someone on Trufitcrew posted
One of my best friends is building a 96-00 Civic coupe for rally. Gutted, cage, tall suspension and an ITR B18C/LSD trans. Should FLY.
There is always garbage on the road, its not surprising.
Any tips on how to remove it? Cleaner and elbow grease? Wire brush? Green Brillo pad?
Thanks!
I'd imagine at some point it'd wear off.
Might smell bad for a couple of days/weeks, then the smell will go away. Happened to me a couple of years ago.