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High Mileage Fits

  #421  
Old 07-10-2018, 10:07 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Rockford
Posts: 1
good to know. my 08 AT Sport is knocking the door on 260,000 - was hoping to get over 300k sounds possible!
replaced stabilizer links at 70K, one trany solenoid at 103K on coil pack around 180k, then all 4 at 235K.
battery after 8 years.
Have some N Illinois rust now and the rear hatch latch doesn't always unlock. otherwise running strong. I commute 48 miles one way mostly 70 MPH posted freeway/toll-road. I stay in the 'slow' lane at 72 and average 32 mpg.
 
  #422  
Old 07-10-2018, 02:49 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 186
Originally Posted by gutsi View Post
My Silver 2007 Fit Sport Manual just turned 400K. Been running great and still getting 33 to 35 MPG on mostly highway driving at 77 mph. Just need to get my AC fixed again (3rd time). Other than that very inexpensive to drive and maintain.

Man, I was getting ready to celebrate getting to 200K. Now I'm going to get laughed at! Back to getting to 300K
Oh, congrats too!
 
  #423  
Old 12-04-2018, 03:26 PM
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5 Year Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3
I now have 222,000 miles on my 09 Fit Sport and have run into my first possible major problem. Along the way, I've had the usual replacement of the high voltage ignition coils - all four at around 80K, and then individually since then; the switch on my dash to turn on the air conditioning jammed and then later the air conditioning stopped coming on - replaced the switch; oil (every 5k), filters, tires and brakes. This week, as I was heading off on a trip from NC to PA, the car jerked and the paddleshifters stopped working, the gear indicator on the dash stopped indicating which gear I was in, and oddly enough, the cigarrette plug disconnected my bluetooth sender for my phone that was plugged into it. I was able to make it home and we left in a second vehicle. I've read that it may be a fault associated with the cable reel assembly. I didn't check the horn or cruise control. If it is the cable reel assembly, could it have been caused when my car went in for the Takata airbag recall and they pulled the steering wheel?
 
  #424  
Old 12-10-2018, 02:55 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 2
I have a 2008 Sport M/T that is about to cross 174k miles. IIRC, I've had it since around 133k for a little over 4 years.

Failures that I've had:

Around 135-140k:
-Car started to misfire. I didn't really do too much troubleshooting and just ordered a new set of coils and plugs. When I went to install them, I found the existing plugs barely finger tight...
-Front passenger caliper seized up. RockAuto sent the wrong side, so I ordered the right one and replaced both.
-During the rainy season in MI (April-May), the inside of the car started to become a swimming pool. Ended up being the common rear door leak. Fix has been holding up for 3+ years.
-Got a CEL around this time for the primary O2 sensor. I ordered it and never got around to changing for probably around 3 years. Over a year after the code came up, during the winter the car started to do this weird hesitation and bucking when accelerating in 1st gear. I got sick of it last winter (probably around 168kish), changed the O2 and it stopped doing the bucking/hesitation.

Around 145k-ish:
-Battery died. Replaced it.

More recently (like the last 3 weeks):
-Drivers rear wheel started making noise on the highway about 5 hours into a road trip. Before I could find a good spot to pull off, I felt a big "shift" like a wheel came loose. Sure enough, somehow 2 studs and their corresponding nuts had snapped off. Due to a stripped out stud, the wheel was already down to only 3 nuts, so it had one hanging on. Located a rear hub/bearing and changed it in a parking lot in about 20 minutes.
-Wiper linkage bushing broke and main arm ended up wedged under the rest of the "wiper transmission". Pulled out entire assembly and replaced the broken bushing with one from a "Dorman Help!" packet of random wiper bushings at AutoZone.
-Since it's gotten cold here in MI this year, I've noticed that when the rear defrost, heat, headlights and radio are going the car started losing power for a quick second (easily noticed when the radio flashes on and off). While addressing the above mentioned wiper issue, I noticed my negative battery terminal and cable looked pretty bad. Waiting on a new cable/terminal assembly from Honda, but in the meantime put a parts store terminal on the original cable temporarily so I can get to work. Haven't noticed any cutouts since.
-Starting to get clunky in the front. Probably struts/sway bar links. I ordered them, just haven't installed them yet.

Other stuff:
-Have a decent sized rust spot under the gas door
-For probably the past 2 years my hatch handle will get stuck in the open position when opened. Then it either doesn't shut, or it makes you think it's shut, until you start driving and notice the door ajar light blinking. I spray it down every few months with WD40 and got in the habit or pushing the handle back in place after closing it.
-On the very first cold start, or after it's been sitting in the cold for an entire work day, it makes the common grinding sound like you're trying to start a car that is already running.
-Sometimes when cold, the car will die the first time you press the clutch after it's been up to speed. Once you fire it back up, it never does it again.
-The car loves to "cup" rear tires. However, it's probably needed rear shocks for around 3 years. I've had a new set for a long time, just haven't gotten around to it since the lower bolts are rusted to the bushing sleeves and need to be cut out.
-I've had a pretty good amount of bulb failures in various places (fogs, signals, brake, head/tail at various points). One of the fogs is basically open to the elements and a new bulb doesn't make it past it's first rain, so I stopped using them a long time ago.
-Snow tires have made the car a whole new animal. I have a super steep driveway and on all seasons the car wouldn't make it up with anything more than a light dusting. On snows it needs to be more than 6" to not make it up.
-Other than the fog that always burns out, everything on the car works, including the AC.
-I've never touched the valves, although I did order a VC gasket and the tools to do the job probably around 3 years ago... I notice some clatter when I'm idling next to a wall in a drive-thru, but that's it.
-The interior is in immaculate condition. Especially when you consider I barely ever clean it, and it regularly gets used to haul two dogs and a whole lot of heavy and dirty car parts.
-I beat the snot out of it daily and change the oil when the reminder tells me to.

I'll probably end up driving it till it starts to get ugly, and even then, it'll probably still be around as a back up vehicle...
 
  #425  
Old 12-10-2018, 04:17 PM
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5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Northeast GA
Posts: 530
Roof leak fix?

@shelbyz

What fixed the roof leak for you? Mine hardly ever leaks so it’s hard to diagnose, but my brother in law’s Fit leaks constantly.
 
  #426  
Old 12-10-2018, 04:21 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Waterford, MI
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Originally Posted by Scratch&Dent View Post
@shelbyz

What fixed the roof leak for you? Mine hardly ever leaks so it’s hard to diagnose, but my brother in law’s Fit leaks constantly.
My leak wasn't coming through the roof, it was rain water breaching the vapor barrier behind the rear door panels.

The only other leak I had was at the passenger A-pillar, but I didn't mention it because it was due too a poorly installed windshield prior to me owning the car.
 

Last edited by shelbyz; 12-10-2018 at 04:23 PM.
  #427  
Old 12-10-2018, 04:37 PM
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Location: Cleveland, GA
Posts: 3,653
Originally Posted by shelbyz View Post
My leak wasn't coming through the roof, it was rain water breaching the vapor barrier behind the rear door panels.
This seems to be where most leaks are traced to in Fit's. The front or rear vapor barrier.

Still surprising to me that they would rely on that thin sheet of plastic for sealing. My cars from the 80's had that plastic sheet, but my more modern cars have had a full molded inner panel to block water and work as sound deadening. Guess there's a reason that Fit's are cheap, loud, and lightweight. Not complaining...just stating facts.
 
  #428  
Old 12-17-2018, 02:43 PM
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: ontario
Posts: 28
My 07 m/t has 290 000 km / 180 000 mi. New to me 10K ago but was told it was hassle free aside from coil packs.

On purchase I noticed the water under the spare tire. Seller said he had seen it before but conveniently forgot to mention it! A little silicone around some of the seams above the tailgate hinges and up under the black plastic trim along the roofline has fixed that.

It also had a very poorly performing rear gate latch which I disassembled and cleaned. It works flawlessly now:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...-tech-fix.html

Misfire issue #1 - new Denso coil packs and Denso Double Platinum plugs

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...o2-sensor.html

Misfire issue #2 - valve lash adjustment (didn't help), remanufactured fuel injector and used computer:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...fire-help.html

So far I've had a lot of headaches from this car but I really do enjoy it. Great fuel economy, and lots of room.
 
  #429  
Old 12-17-2018, 03:45 PM
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Location: Cleveland, GA
Posts: 3,653
Originally Posted by benjhind View Post
Denso Double Platinum plugs
Ignition system was designed for and car came with iridium plugs. I highly recommend switching to iridiums by Denso or NGK. You'll see a noticeable improvement in fuel economy and performance.

Here's a short write up that ends with the statement that poor performance can result from switching from iridium to platinum...
https://www.championautoparts.com/Pa...Materials.html
 

Last edited by GAFIT; 12-17-2018 at 03:59 PM.
  #430  
Old 12-17-2018, 04:02 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: ontario
Posts: 28
Originally Posted by GAFIT View Post
Ignition system was designed for and car came with iridium plugs. I highly recommend switching to iridiums by Denso or NGK. You'll see a noticeable improvement in fuel economy and performance.

Here's a short write up that ends with the statement that poor performance can result from switching from iridium to platinum...
https://www.championautoparts.com/Pa...Materials.html
Thanks. If you click the link in my previous post you'll see where you already told me this
 
  #431  
Old 12-17-2018, 04:08 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Cleveland, GA
Posts: 3,653
Originally Posted by benjhind View Post
Thanks. If you click the link in my previous post you'll see where you already told me this
Sorry...senior moment's happen often here
 
  #432  
Old 12-19-2018, 01:55 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Canada
Posts: 1
I'm in Canada 🇨🇦 175000km on mine

Honda fit is a great car I got a BlackBerry purple one with a 5-speed and it's so good. Has an air intake on heavier springs and a set of falken tires on it on some pretty sweet five spoke wheels
 
  #433  
Old 12-23-2018, 10:26 PM
Jer
Jer is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 2
2007 Sport. 201,425 miles

Just noticed an oil leak. Motor oil but collecting under the transmission. Dipstick doesn’t read low. Last change was this month last year and MM shows 20% life remaining. I don’t think oil has been added since change. Wife’s car or I would have noticed sooner. She took mine on a trip so I’ve been bothering with it. (BTW, figured out Trico brand 26” and 15” wipers are a very good fit, especially the 15”. Their 26” fit better [bigger] than the Bosch 26” it repladed...if only Trico made a 27”...suppose could try Bosch 28”??...had to order the rear Trico 14-B online...will see next week.)
 
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