High Mileage Fits
#303
2007 Fit Sport Vivid Blue Pearl
I purchased brand new and I am currently at approximately 150k.
Things are starting to appear.
First I purchased this car in FL, and moved it to OH. Ive had a few ~500 mile road trips here and there, no problems while out on the road.
Issues to date?
-Water collection in spare tire area
-Brake maintenance, its time i think soon
-on my 3rd set of tires including original (sumitomo 70k rating)
-small crack in radiator (found a cheap replacement online for $83 , has anyone used it?
-driver window issues
-thermostat needs replacing
-passenger rear view mirror cracked
-driver sun visor lost its "stick"
-driver door rust bubbling
-front end paint cracking
-ac control panel stopped working
-found out today that my ac compressor/clutch need replacing. So not looking forward to this. supposed to be saving money as I am soon to be moving from Ohio to California, can you say oh fuck!
despite all of this, i am overall pleased with the vehicle. it hurts to think that its going to start to cost alot of money to keep up. Especially with a move to california looming!
timing sucks!
I purchased brand new and I am currently at approximately 150k.
Things are starting to appear.
First I purchased this car in FL, and moved it to OH. Ive had a few ~500 mile road trips here and there, no problems while out on the road.
Issues to date?
-Water collection in spare tire area
-Brake maintenance, its time i think soon
-on my 3rd set of tires including original (sumitomo 70k rating)
-small crack in radiator (found a cheap replacement online for $83 , has anyone used it?
-driver window issues
-thermostat needs replacing
-passenger rear view mirror cracked
-driver sun visor lost its "stick"
-driver door rust bubbling
-front end paint cracking
-ac control panel stopped working
-found out today that my ac compressor/clutch need replacing. So not looking forward to this. supposed to be saving money as I am soon to be moving from Ohio to California, can you say oh fuck!
despite all of this, i am overall pleased with the vehicle. it hurts to think that its going to start to cost alot of money to keep up. Especially with a move to california looming!
timing sucks!
#304
2007 Fit Sport Vivid Blue Pearl
-Water collection in spare tire area
-Brake maintenance, its time i think soon
-driver window issues
-thermostat needs replacing
-passenger rear view mirror cracked
-driver sun visor lost its "stick"
-driver door rust bubbling
-front end paint cracking
-ac control panel stopped working
-found out today that my ac compressor/clutch need replacing. So not looking forward to this. supposed to be saving money as I am soon to be moving from Ohio to California, can you say oh fuck!
despite all of this, i am overall pleased with the vehicle. it hurts to think that its going to start to cost alot of money to keep up. Especially with a move to california looming!
timing sucks!
-Water collection in spare tire area
-Brake maintenance, its time i think soon
-driver window issues
-thermostat needs replacing
-passenger rear view mirror cracked
-driver sun visor lost its "stick"
-driver door rust bubbling
-front end paint cracking
-ac control panel stopped working
-found out today that my ac compressor/clutch need replacing. So not looking forward to this. supposed to be saving money as I am soon to be moving from Ohio to California, can you say oh fuck!
despite all of this, i am overall pleased with the vehicle. it hurts to think that its going to start to cost alot of money to keep up. Especially with a move to california looming!
timing sucks!
Brake maintenance - get the cheap brake vacuum bleeder or pneumatic bleeder (requires a compressor) from Harbor Freight. Will take you 1-2 hours depending on how quickly you can jack the vehicle and remove/reinstall the tires.
Driver window issues - you didn't way what was wrong - easy stuff is to check the wiring and fuzes and see if anything's amiss.
Thermostat - buy a new part from bernardihonda (good source for other new parts) and replace. You'll probably need some Honda coolant to refill the system and perhaps a new gasket.
Passenger rear mirror - replace with new - the new one I got came from the parts place already painted VBP for $175. Install takes a little time because you have to pull the door panel. Once the door panel is off, the rest is easy.
Driver visor - get new, it's three screws for a new visor.
Body work - I avoid body work like the plague
AC controls - did everything stop working? Sounds like a fuze problem, fuzes go bad - replace.
AC compressors are expensive and replacement requires specialized equipment and know-how to do it right (mostly purging air from the repaired system to make sure there's only refrigerant in the system). I'm sure there are videos on youtube that can give you some idea for what the DIY would entail. I'd wait on this one until your finances are better.
Did I mention bernardihonda is a good place for parts? Shipping on the East Coast is quick. You might be able to find a similar place closer to Ohio or California.
#305
Thanks Rob
those are just the issues i had. most of them fixed.
biggest things right now
o2 sensors (forgot to mention yesterda, engine light on)
radiator crack (ordering soon)
a/c- it works intermittently. i took it in yesterday for a "check up" i was advised that the clutch is intermittingly disengagng and the compressor needs replaced. $1k!!!
i will be posting about this but i cant seem to find a gd/1st gen / ac thread.
this site is huge!
thanks for the site reference!
those are just the issues i had. most of them fixed.
biggest things right now
o2 sensors (forgot to mention yesterda, engine light on)
radiator crack (ordering soon)
a/c- it works intermittently. i took it in yesterday for a "check up" i was advised that the clutch is intermittingly disengagng and the compressor needs replaced. $1k!!!
i will be posting about this but i cant seem to find a gd/1st gen / ac thread.
this site is huge!
thanks for the site reference!
#306
Purchased 5/2006
134k miles
Major repair & replace
121k - replace vetch oil pressure switch
111k - replace front brakes
95k - replace water pump & idler pulley
Plus 3 sets of tires, 3 batteries & 4 windshields (gotta love Arizona roads)
Overall, a very inexpensive & reliable ride . Also, a nice 40mpg as a highway commuter car.
134k miles
Major repair & replace
121k - replace vetch oil pressure switch
111k - replace front brakes
95k - replace water pump & idler pulley
Plus 3 sets of tires, 3 batteries & 4 windshields (gotta love Arizona roads)
Overall, a very inexpensive & reliable ride . Also, a nice 40mpg as a highway commuter car.
#308
My 2001 GD is on around 150k; only mileage I have done was driving it home from purchase, but it's suffering from bad bodywork, a leaky shock and a suspect knocking bottom end!
Hope to rectify all this in my ownership!
Hope to rectify all this in my ownership!
#310
2008 Honda fit base 160,000 miles.
Ive suffered just a few problems
1: the ignition key and door keys will fail if anyone sticks anything other than the OEM key in the hole. Half awake the MRS stuck a GM key in the ignition and fouled the entire system taking the dealer hours to repair and about 600 cash.
2: The headlight switch...I did this one myself after being rebutted by the dealer who had already replaced the recalled wire.
2008 honda fit base headlight switch removal process
remove 3 Phillips under column shield
undo tilt lock and take shields off
remove 2 screws in the headlight switch (very tiny skinny)
Now dive completely to the floor shield on the left side is a twist (undo) tug slowly on the bottom shield working toward the right side a small square grab is holding the right side it will pop off...if you go slow.
Next load a 12mm on a 10 inch 3/8th extension and remove ALL 4 (2 nuts 2 bolts) holding the steering wheel ....(you should also use 2 inch protective tape where the column will fall onto base of the hole on the lower dash)...
wallah now you have something like a metal snake with rigger-mortise in hand
now move upward (this is where protective tape comes in handy) tug the wheel to the right Yes it will indent the soft section of the dash a bit, hold right with knees
now look in the center top of the headlight switch for a tiny 1/8th inch plastic retainer button unhook this and your switch is about to come out...but wait on the back is a wire pac and plug...I found a little Sharpe awl was able to wiggle out the plug from behind. Now with the wires free and retainer unhooked your headlight switch will slide out to the left or drivers side and be free to dispose of. Reverse install your new switch now....entire process should take just 15-30 mins.
As always you should have removed power to your battery whenever working around airbags. so you may have to re-code your radio when you power up.
3: uneven tire wear...I believe most of the wear us user born the front tires crank over like a road grader in a full turn and it tends to rub the edges raw to the cords and leaves the tops like new.
I think the back tires wear due to the torsion tube suspension is to flexible leaving your rear tires to doing the Old VW knockknee or bagger car spread.
You might be able to help your fit by adding air shocks (lord help you) the ride was already like rock crawler from the factory...and take a nice big turn around instead of rolling your wheels tight and doing a quick turn round take your time.
if your able to get 40k out of tires be happy.
all for now....My fit has been a godsend thru 4.60 per gallon gas and overall the most used car of 5 at this household.
it saves gas but eats tires (but this can be corrected thru driving).
Ive suffered just a few problems
1: the ignition key and door keys will fail if anyone sticks anything other than the OEM key in the hole. Half awake the MRS stuck a GM key in the ignition and fouled the entire system taking the dealer hours to repair and about 600 cash.
2: The headlight switch...I did this one myself after being rebutted by the dealer who had already replaced the recalled wire.
2008 honda fit base headlight switch removal process
remove 3 Phillips under column shield
undo tilt lock and take shields off
remove 2 screws in the headlight switch (very tiny skinny)
Now dive completely to the floor shield on the left side is a twist (undo) tug slowly on the bottom shield working toward the right side a small square grab is holding the right side it will pop off...if you go slow.
Next load a 12mm on a 10 inch 3/8th extension and remove ALL 4 (2 nuts 2 bolts) holding the steering wheel ....(you should also use 2 inch protective tape where the column will fall onto base of the hole on the lower dash)...
wallah now you have something like a metal snake with rigger-mortise in hand
now move upward (this is where protective tape comes in handy) tug the wheel to the right Yes it will indent the soft section of the dash a bit, hold right with knees
now look in the center top of the headlight switch for a tiny 1/8th inch plastic retainer button unhook this and your switch is about to come out...but wait on the back is a wire pac and plug...I found a little Sharpe awl was able to wiggle out the plug from behind. Now with the wires free and retainer unhooked your headlight switch will slide out to the left or drivers side and be free to dispose of. Reverse install your new switch now....entire process should take just 15-30 mins.
As always you should have removed power to your battery whenever working around airbags. so you may have to re-code your radio when you power up.
3: uneven tire wear...I believe most of the wear us user born the front tires crank over like a road grader in a full turn and it tends to rub the edges raw to the cords and leaves the tops like new.
I think the back tires wear due to the torsion tube suspension is to flexible leaving your rear tires to doing the Old VW knockknee or bagger car spread.
You might be able to help your fit by adding air shocks (lord help you) the ride was already like rock crawler from the factory...and take a nice big turn around instead of rolling your wheels tight and doing a quick turn round take your time.
if your able to get 40k out of tires be happy.
all for now....My fit has been a godsend thru 4.60 per gallon gas and overall the most used car of 5 at this household.
it saves gas but eats tires (but this can be corrected thru driving).
Last edited by Brian Rolshoven; 10-09-2015 at 03:59 PM.
#311
I have an 08 with 120,000. Problems have been with the ignition coils - replaced all of them twice so far. The transmission had to be replaced, otherwise mostly routine stuff - brakes, batteries minor electrical issues.
#312
Intermittent ac compressor is most likely low charge in system, there is a pressure switch that disables the unit on low pressure. Most systems need a top off about 1 or 2 times in the life of the system. You can buy a can form most auto suppliers with the R134 + a small dye charge (UV) and a bit of lube and seal conditioner that will usually bring the system up to operating spec. About 15 bucks... Do not over charge use the can that comes with a gauge. Mid point in the green zone. (Read the instructions!)
#313
215000 miles on 07 Honda Fit Sport
Runs like the day I bought it. Stock transmission. Only issue I've had is motor mounts constantly going bad and my sway bar links need to be replaced. Had to take the wafers out of the ignition lock to get it to work...it wouldnt take the key. Just minor annoyances but the engine and tranny are going great.
Last edited by jimbola; 10-23-2015 at 03:28 AM.
#315
Have you had to have your valve/timing adjusted? I'm at 111,000 on my 07 sport 5 speed and I'm looking to see what I may have to get done.
#316
I did my first valve lash adjust around 130K. Wish I would have done it much sooner. Noticeable difference; felt like I gained an extra gear (5MT), ran smoother, no hesitation that seemed ever-present before.
#317
189,800 on my '09 fit that we bought brand-new in July 09. I've always just done regular maintenance as dictated by the maintenance minder. We are starting to have our first problem - starter is going out. It grinds after starting on cold mornings. I'm replacing it this weekend and it appears from my research on this forum that it will be a huge PITA. Other than that - no problems whatsoever. The only thing I've never done is adjust valves or idle speed, which is required in the maintenance manual. The valves are just a little above my paygrade, so I'll probably have the dealer do it. It will be the first time that I've ever taken the car to the dealer since we bought it
#319
Heck I can probably do it...I replaced the starter this weekend without destroying anything. But any jon in which I have to remove the valve covers makes me nervous