pretty interesting indeed...

 

MNFit
If it were me, I would simply use a pre-assembled braided SS patch between the hardlines from a group like RPS and call it a day. Two fittings and the hose would do it. NAPA stores, at least around here can make one on the spot for you.

Stainless Braided Lines, -4 P.T.F.E. Hose Assemblies, FRA410 | RacePartSolutions.com

Hard lines are better (IMHO) where available. At least in terms of, durability, consistency in pressure and pedal feel.

 

correct! it replaces the entire line from the clutch master all the way to the slave on your tranny.

 

yea this confirms one of my questions as well!

 

Right so why not be the first? Instead of ppl saying don't waste your time (DSM) do something else, why not try it? Yea there will be a pretty penny for it but don't you think it will be well worth it? Hell Lyon's post was like hey I am the first boosted GE, well what about the first K swapped GE?


So the CR-Z mounts would not work? They are saying the CR-Z K swap mounts will work in the GE....but like everyone knows, no one has done the swap in the U.S. But couldn't someone make custom mounts? I mean I'm sure the shop is well prepared to make them but don't mean the swap can't be done.

Question, and not to be a smart a$$ or anything, but how exactly do you research a swap that has never been done to your specific vehicle? That's like telling the rain to fall upwards.


So did you get laughed at for wanting to take your vehicle to a shop to get is swapped??? I mean really if you don't have the tools, the proper area to do the swap how the hell are you going to do it? Can't close your eyes and say "K swap now!" and open them and there it is magically in the car. It don't happen that way. So whats the deal? You laugh at someone who wants a professional to work on your car for you? Get over yourself (Not aimed at you in any means)
&
Roger I am well aware that its not a doosie, seeing you guys struggling with your swaps trying to find different headers that will fit and give good HP gains. I know that its not going to be a week or two that it will be done. Even though I do engine swaps in humvees all day long, I know it takes a while to do.
RTR looked at the car and specifically quoted $7 - 8k. I was told to go to this shop and I did and they have nothing else but Hondas and Integis being worked on. They are the number one Honda performance shop in central Tx, so I think I made a good idea on going to these guys for my needs.
But anyways like I posted on my first post here I am saving $9k and a extra 2k incase the labor goes over what they quoted. I know exactly what your saying MN and trust me I am saving and doing as much searching as possible even though they don't make didly squat for the GE. I'm only on here to get some info from you guys that have done it and maybe would like to share some of it. Trust me if I could figure out this search on here I would be on the second gen forums looking but when I type in K swap it just shows you guys and other posts not irrelevant to what I am looking for.

 

So guys,

I've got $50 sitting on my parts pile, so my K-Swap is now under savings. Can you walk me through everything I"ll need to do?

I'm not going to do any research, just list it in my sig as under savings, along with the mega cheap JDP lip, and to showcase how capable of saving for quality car parts, I'll hook that sig up with a pic of my mad tyte cheap rimz y0.

Now please hold my hand as I embark on this journey.

 

for a header contact ASP here in seattle.

jpax told me that he was running the eg kswap axles so you might want to start there.

the K crz mounts are said to possibly work but its not sure yet since no one has tried. Everyone overseas has been doing customs mounts.

I wonder if the gd wiring harness with piggyback kpro will work on the ge chassis?

 

Ok ok, I'm writing this down for them.
Shiz ill buy the k crz mounts if it helps mythbust it.
The guy thats going to do the swap said he had a boosted GD but got bored with it and got a truck for towing purposes, so he might know what to do with the harness and piggyback system. He says he's not sure what system he is going to use though. I thought there was only one system to use on a K swap and thats the kpro... can you use other systems??? I mean im just asking, seeing if anyone might have a clue.
Yea I know its not really much advice from the GD group but I got the GE and there really isn't any GD's around here. Honda might sell one every now and then but they are AT. Nice colors for the GD but they were AT. :/
But thanks guys for your input, ill be checking back every now and then to see if anyone has any more ideas. I will definitely be back when I start the swap and if any problems come up I will post them.

 

you use k pro for the k20 but in order to keep the stock gauge display you need to keep the fit ecu.

for a little interesting read look at this article. this was Jpax's fit when he sent it down to arizona for hasport to do the swap.
2007 Honda Fit - K20 Install - Sport Compact Car Magazine

 

There is absolutely nothing wrong with being the first, the thing is your taking all the risks to be the first one to do it, your the one that has to figure everything out.



Who are "they" Honda, Hasport, some random dude on the net? I think a lot of people are guessing they will work because the engines are so close. Comstom mounts are very possible it just means more $$$

Being the first one there is a lot of research you need and can do. Unforchantly that research is not as easy as asking some questions on the internet or reading through threads looking for fast answers. Your going to have to look through service manuals, wire diagrams, check and compare part numbers. You will have to figure out how to get every thing to work together.

When I went to my shop, Full Blown Motorsport's, I already had a very solid Idea of what needed to be done and what was involved in a swap like this. The shop was vary capable of doing the swap but I dint just bring my car to them and say "put a k in there". I talked with them I told them about the hurdles I discovered while I did my research. I told them about the Custom mount needing to be made, That I was not going to be able to use my stock ECU or gauge cluster, the fact there was no swap header for the car.

Now when you say you where quoted $7-$8K, is that turn key kswap or is that just labor cost?

 

Considering I helped Lyon design his setup and pointed him toward the materials he would need to complete the rest of it, I think you (CFO) entirely misunderstand what I was trying to tell you.

Lyon is also a prolific researcher, like myself, as I would discover while working with him. He didnt ask anyone to hold his hand. Only asking questions here and there when he was truly stumped.

But as much work as he put in, adding a turbo to an otherwise stock car is no where near as involved as what you are contemplating. I and as voiced by others here, just dont see that sort of research being done on your end.

Lyon went from PMing me at the end of november about a potential build and my thoughts on it to DDing a boosted GE in less than 5 weeks. In fact he fired it up on New Years Eve/Day.

Even in our initial encounter re: a rear mounted turbo.

I would like for you to become a mature, reasonable and contributing member of the community.. and I would sure as shit be excited for you to bring us the first USDM GE8 K swap.

But its going to require a more open mind on your end. I'm not entirely certain that you have the full scope of what this is going to entail. It will be a long hard slog of many months which will be tough as a student. All my builds while I was in school were the same way. You need someway to get to class and work, lifes obligations need to come first.

Do not put yourself in a tough spot if you can avoid it. Buy a shitbox you can DD in an emergency if need be. Thats what I had to do.

The Fit was bought to DD while I build my race cars, and once this next one is running I will DD the race car after it gets some shakedown passes in and the Fit goes under the knife.

Life has held me up so I won't really get any good passes in on the 1G till next season anyways

Things of that sort NEED to be in your budget.

There will be inconveniences, especially if you just go to a shop and ask them to do it. They will nickel and dime you to death. You need to know enough to be assertive and authoritative.. because no one else will be.

Bust out a tape measure and get it in your head what sort of mounts you'll need fabbed, figure out the dimensions you'll need for the CV shafts, where they will be in relationship to the diff and the wheel hubs when mounted up.. etc.

You will likely need a group like DSS to make you some custom shafts, as the way a K sits in the GE will almost assuredly not work with the GD Kswap shafts. Simply because the two chassis are different.

Exchanging Humvee motors while certainly a technical undertaking is not the nearly on the same leve; as retrofitting an entirely different motor into the chassis. Especially with MT/AT bit you have going on.

And if you can drop the attitude, I would be more than happy to help you out.

For starters, have the shop, if they are capable, make you some custom mounts.

Have them use an 85A polyurethane if not solid mount it, if you really intend to make power and/or boost that K.

This sort of project is my bread and butter. I dont make things up nor would I lead you astray.

You can ask anyone here.

I may be abrasive at times, but I wont give anyone bad advice. I like to see things done properly and want them to satisfy the end user while being reliable.

It would be a real shock if you got this thing turn key for only $9k, or even less than $12k honestly.

Thats just being real, our previous BS aside.

 

No thats parts and labor, they said they can get parts for cheap the engine itself will cost $1k. They believe they can do it but they really wont know until they drop the L series out and look at the mounts for them to decide if it will be possible or worth the time. if anything I will be paying them to yank the engine to see if its a go or no go. Like I said these guys are good at what they do and they do it in a very good timely manner. They have two mechs that can pull a engine out and put the new one in in a day by themselves. (If only I could do that to a military engine grrr)

Like I said, saving at least $9k+ incase sh** gets real. But I have a good 9 to 10 months of saving to do and I don't think me asking a few of you of your opinions is going to fill that whole 10 month period, I will be going out to talk to other people but I just figured I'd start with FF to see who thinks of what. More that I click on threads the more I see people with GE's running around like headless chickens trying to ask Hasport, HR, Honda, Hondata, etc. etc. for parts that they will only sell or manufacture for racing companies that WILL buy their product and not flake out.
But pretty much if this can't go down with the GE then I will just see how much they bill me for the work and see what I can find with the rest of the money I have, maybe find something with a big enough bay to do it and something that has been out for a while now.

Yea I thought so, I don't know what he means then, maybe he was talking to someone else when I asked him.

 

not bashing, real advice here.

You seem in doubt or indecisive. You cannot be like that. Even if they say no, you have got to be 1 step ahead of the game and have solutions or ideas readily available, never take no for an answer. Don't let simple things like mounts and axles stop you from doing this. Where there is a wallet, there is a way. The motor CAN and WILL fit in your GE, now its all about how bad you want it.

And how F N nice would it be to know that you were the 1st in the states or even first with the USDM chassis to do this? That you have done something that no one else has. Priceless.

PS: By a beater = 1st priority. It doesn't matter what it looks like. screw it. just grab something so you don't have that worry. some 2k car max.

No one was ever recognized or honored in human existence for doing something normal or common.

But then again, don't do it for the fame, do it for you, because YOU want it.

 

It sits under the bonnet very nicely. looks cleaner than in a gd IMO.

 

Sorry, its just I am constanly looking for ways to contact the other side of the world to find out stuff, I get leads but then get shot down because people don't know how or where to contact the people. (Rolls eyes) so yea I am sorry if i seem that way its just in reality Its stressing me out even though I don't need to be. I am a I want to know now type of person, I like to soak up as much info as I can at once and do it. The whole waiting game bugs the crap out of me.


It would be bad A, I mean looking at what kylerwho put up makes me wanna cry cause on the other side of the world they got everything and we don't. lol


Trust me I want to do it for me and my group, I want to be able to keep up with all these expensive cars. I am not a fame type of person, I was never the cool kid in school, I moved around a lot so I didn't get to know a group of people for long. So doing this would make me proud of myself that I have got the first. Its not about the fame or who has what, its the feeling that you have it.

 

it is... but when you doing oil change thats going to be a bitch...

 

im suprised oil changes on my Fit is actually not that bad

 

the whole front windsheild wiper cover has to be removed for oil changes.

CFO if you can speak mandrin chinese I know a shop that you can call and they might be able to help you out.
Welcome to CK Performance Website

here was their fit swap:

 

sorry i disappeared guys. once i sent in my harnesses to Hasports its been pretty much just sit and wait. i cant wait anymore.

Got a call from Brian at hasport and we are not doing duel ecu's. he has a different idea and i am on board with it more on that as i get updated by him.

I just have a few questions. im going to start ordering parts for the motor i.e. FPR, fuel rail, (DSM) your input is always appreciated. Btw, it might take a little longer for me to get that s series turbo you recommended.

1. Who is running a K24a4 block?
a. what oil pump are you running? is it safe to keep the stock pump if i
am planning on boosting?

2. I need to know what parts you guys are using that are working for your builds i.e. hybrid racing/ktuned, what working for you guys.

3. last thing what alternator are you guys running crv,accord,tsx.

actually last thing who is running a return fuel system. for those that are did you happen to keep a parts list of custom fuel lines and measurements. either i missed this on the build threads or its just not there with specific info. the only thing i found on line was a civic forum but i dont want to assume its the same for our GD and F anything up.

Lets Get this thread back on topic! ill have more pics up on my build thread soon and will add as many as i can when im done to this thread

 

Gaaaahhh! No I wish I knew Mandrin lol!!! But yea I guess we should get back to topic. :/ when I get closer to getting my swap done I will talk to yall again. I have been e mailing a bunch of companies, performance shops, and talking to RTR for a few days bugging the hell out of them seeing if they are stressing other sources as much as I am stressing them. But I will be back with you guys next year. I will post comments here and there.