finished my Hybrid Racing to Honda fit adapter

 

all u made was 198whp with bolt ons on a 240hp rated motor? ive seen people break 220-230 with just bolt ons, no cams. just seems a bit low for a tsx motor.

 

sorry just read the past few pages. congrats on the 2.4....

 

^^ ok so then you saw how the stock TSX intake cam is holding the engine back and that I did get a Type-S an will be installing it next spring and get a retune?

 

so last night bros, I was trying to fab up an EP3 accel pedal bracket... lol fail. it was getting late so we were getting sloppy.. haha kind of hard to put it in the oem location. anyone have some good detailed pics they would like to share with me PLEASE!! going to attempt round 2 after work today. go snap me some pics! I LOVE YOU!

 

thought this would be useful for the swap doods.



Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,039


Checklist before starting your K series for the 1st / first time?!?
What are some things to check before cranking your motor swap for the first time. I see checklists for parts needed, but nothing covering this. If there is a link post it. If not, let's talk.....

Thanks in advance

Engine Bay:
-- Check continuity with grounds using a multimeter - blue92da
-- Verify all fluids have been added (oil, tranny, coolant)
-- All bolts are not only tight, but torqued (engine mounts, radiator bolts, reservoirs, battery tray, battery tie down, etc...)
-- Upper and Lower Radioator hoses are tightened. - 1320WhtRex Don't forget about about Hasport Radiator hose adapter. Tighten down w/ a clamp on each side (if being used)
-- Spark plugs gapped, torqued, and anti seize applied to threads - xtrafastcrx
-- Fuel lines are tight and sealed - xtrafastcrx
-- Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) comes preset with only 20 psi from the factory by default and the pressure must be adjusted before or shortly after starting your car. The best way is to prime your fuel pump by turning the key over to "II or Accessories" a few times. You should hear the fuel pump work for about 2-3 seconds each time the key is turned to the "II" position. Have someone monitor the fuel lines as well as the fuel pressure on the fuel pressure gauge. Loosen the hex nut on top of the FPR, and use an allen key and start screwing in the adjuster bolt clockwise while you have another person thats keeps priming the car, until you get your pressure at 50 psi or whatever you want it to be at. Then crank the car. - blue92da
-- A common thing at startup is a bouncy idle. Since you have the motor out or things out of the car, just take off your Intake Air Control Valve (IACV) and clean it real good. Clean it with carb cleaner, scrape the gunk away with a flat head screw driver, spray again, over and over until when you spin it, it rotates freely a few times by itself. Close and reinstall. - blue92da
-- If you have a new radiator, make sure you flush it first before putting coolant in it to wash away any metal shavings or debris left over from its construction. Top off the radiator with coolant & distilled water (50/50) with the radiator cap off. Once the car is warm and you no longer see bubbles rising at the fill up install the radiator cap. - blue92da
-- Primary Oxygen sensor is installed in the header. If the OEM harness is not used, all 4 wires should be soldered and heat shrunk. - blue92da
-- While verifying the O2 sensor is installed in the header, verify that the wiring is not in contact with the header and is routed without being crimped at the crossmember, firewall, etc...
-- Shifter cables are not in contact with the exhaust or header.
-- Double check your throttle wire tension by having a person sit in the car and press the gas pedal to the floor (100% throttle). With the gas pedal to the floor and the throttle opened try and open the throttle further. If it opens further by hand adjust until the throttle is opened 100% when pedal is pressed to the floor. - blue92da


Interior:
-- Motor is in neutral
-- Prime fuel pump a few times to get fuel flowing through the new system. Have someone monitor the fuel lines for leaks as you prime the fuel pump.
-- All connections at ECU and under dash harnesses are tight and snug

Exterior:
-- Make sure ALL tools are away from car and surrounding area is clean
-- Good gas in tank (93 octane or better) - 1320WhtRex


SOURCE:
Checklist before starting your K series for the 1st / first time?!? - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum

 

Has anyone done an AT GE8 with K20? Keeping the paddle shifters... I was thinking of going that route with mine.
Not sure if it can be done or what..

 

swap a auto K20 into a car? IF your talking hooking up the paddles to the K I dont think it can be done or it would be one hell of a wiring nightmare

 

i think maybe he just meant swapping a k20 into what used to be an auto ge8... so far the only K20's ive seen in ge8's are using "Jazz's" which have slightly different engine bay dimensions and component layouts... so im not sure.

 

Yes K swap, but keep the ability to paddle shift since my car is AT..

 

what is this??? i have no clue. emissions crap? can i remote this? did you guys? HELPS!

 

i left mine in the car, and plus it will be out the way of the motor... just in case you decide to go back to the l15a one day that will be helpfull

 

Checked my car this morning and I did not see what was circled in red in my engine bay.

 

sorry i dont have that either

 

I was wanting to wire my 2 fans together to act as 1. normally 1 is ac, but I want them both to act together sense I no longer have ac. any words of wisdom? helps?

 

can someone do me a favor.

I have completely removed my oem gauge cluster, something might have got unplugged but my hazzards and turn signals do not flash. does the dash have to be plugged up for them to work??? can you unplug your oem dash and see if yours work. maybe I removed the "body" ecu on accident... where is it located? was it the thing mounted on top of the engine ecu?..

 

i know i havent posted in awhile, been saving up and doing alot of research, over the next 2-3 months will be turboing the fit, ill start a build thread as soon as parts start rolling in, a small teaser, the turbo will be a borg warner

 

Ok which frame at least? S200sx? S300sx?

You should've bought my S200 (59-74) I sold it for cheap!

And whether you go T3 or T4.. it better be using the twinscroll housings!

 

its between a 6758 and a 7670