it was orginally mounted to the fan shroud, you have to use other fans so how did you mount yours to the fan shroud that is no longer there?

 

Has never built a cool car, needs to attempt to fill out his resume.

>_>
<_<

 

Well the gentleman in question, if any of you remember his past forays into this forum, is not even building this car. He is taking it to a shop that has no experience with the platform and aims to throw money at the car till it cooperates.

No way that could fail.

Sigs are for something witty, actual mods (not JDM RAD CAP YO), times slips, dyno #s or in the case of econobox forums.. mileage figures.

Giant pics of stock cars and a list of mad tyte meets are just .. sad.

Back on topic.. so how do you check your overflow MNFit?

 

yeah i my body shop did some custom work where it would stay the same place as before... i think i might some pictures of it

 

It was zip tied to about the origanel area, but I really dint like how that looked so I moved it out of sight

I have to remove my bumper, which with no splash guards and and the side screws stripped out really doesn't take long, lol

 

DMS: Sorry you never been to any "tyte" car meets, and I'm the illiterate one. Good job ebay special you earned another sticker. There goes another tick for your profile! Yay! Go get your BF to suck you off, your getting a little tense cause no ones buying your crap.

Mike: Sorry but the Sig stays, don't like it don't look at it.

And neither of your replies refer to a K swap so like the thread title says, NO BS. Thank you.

So yes I am getting a shop to do it for me DSM, I don't have any other means of transpo and don't want to spend 5 months swapping out the engine like these guys have done. And for someone that has no idea of what they are talking about trying to dog on a professional performance shop, your really looking stupid right now. So go on keep talking that "Mad s**t" since your so dope now from last time. Look up RTR in Texas, yea I know its hard to look but I'm sure your mom wont mind you being on the computer just a little bit longer at dinner time. have a nice day son.
Back to topic, I have a few questions (no answers needed from d**k lips (DSM))
Will the hasport drive shafts work with the GE for the K Swap? Some say nay but just checking.
What headers have you guys come up with to solve the space problem from the front beam?
What mounts have you guys used?
And why would it be harder for the AT to swap to MT? All you would have to do is fab the spot where the shift box is going to be right? Not only that but get the center console for MT as well but still I don't see how it would be hard. Both swaps MT and AT your getting different trannys anyways. Idk maybe something I'm missing.

 

So you don't understand it when someones being facetious, as well as struggling with being lliterate, racist and homophobic?

Well done.

Even in the event I were gay, I don't think your grade-school level insults would bug me much.

Once again its pretty clear that between the two of us, I'm not the one that "doesn't know what they are talking about."

 

Will the hasport drive shafts work with the GE for the K Swap? Some say nay but just checking.

No idea all of us have GDs no one has done a swap on a GE, at least in the US

What headers have you guys come up with to solve the space problem from the front beam?

..... um no comment

What mounts have you guys used?

hasport is the only company I know of that makes mounts, but as far as I know they dont make mounts for the GE

And why would it be harder for the AT to swap to MT? All you would have to do is fab the spot where the shift box is going to be right? Not only that but get the center console for MT as well but still I don't see how it would be hard. Both swaps MT and AT your getting different trannys anyways. Idk maybe something

Cluth pedal, clutch master cylinder, brake pedal, ECU for a manual, Gauge cluster for a manual. Thrans mount is most likely diffrent between the MT and AT. that is jsut a few things off the top of my head that are diffrent from a MT and AT

From ready your post im guess you have not done very much research in a swap like this. I had a shop do my swap and it took 3-4 months, this is not a weekend swap it takes time and money. You really need to sit back and spend some time doing research as for what your getting into. I cant speak for the other guys but I spent about 2+ months of researching and planing about all that was going to have to be done. I made a budget, even planned for unexpected BS that I might have over looked and I still went over budget a bit.

Now im just going to sit back and because this shit just might get good

 

He's making fun of my stock Fit that I have no parts for and my lack of steady income. If only I had parts and had just hit 5 years at the same employer.

Oh wait.

 

Same dude wanted to rear mount a 40lb/min turbo with a large turbine on a 1.5l.

Through the stock cats.

'Nuff said.

I'm not gonna blow up the thread any further, he showed his colors in the last thread he took a dump on and was summarily deleted post haste by the modmins.

He is his own worst enemy as far as I am concerned.


I did genuinely try and help him the first time out when he quoted me on someone elses rear-mount build.. but didn't absorb/understand any of what I was telling the other gentleman.

It's cool though, between his stunning and prolific aptitude for research, a dime/dozen performance shop, his friend that "knows" turbos and a healthy 5 figure budget he claims he has to throw at a car that hardly cost that much to begin with... I'm sure hes got this.

Chillax brah.

 

lol oh alright... but you not having any issues with cooling ?

 

no, car runs rock solid at 190F ish

 

I got my temp down to 188F running solid. I know this swap cooling system like the back of my hand now.


speaking of research and swap time, I researched for 6 months. I swapped and installed in 2 days. two very long days lol. but I got it going. then I had to fix a few things (specific to my application.) after the actual swap, I took about 2 weeks to do fab work (shifter, and exhaust). then started to actually drive it.


Side Question! Need answer asap please!
What and how did you guys hook up your clutch line? Anyone use the Hybrid Racing swap clutch line? I think it will work. Reason I ask, last night I noticed a small brake fluid leak where I connected the itr tranny line to my honda fit line. It was loose... Ill post below what 2 parts I connected together. they seem to fit so I just did it. lol. does anyone know if our clutch master is -3 an comming out? thats what HR's kit fits.

this is how I connected my clutch line. I have circled the 2 ends below that I screwed together.




So it was kind of loose between those 2 points, I tightened it. but im still kind of weary.. lol so I wanted to replace the whole damn thing with the HR cable.


anyone know what size this hole is? needs to be -3an for HR line to work and Im SET!




some info and a pic on the HR line

Product Description


When Hybrid Racing did their first K-swap over 5 years ago there were no off the shelf products to make the swap clean and easy. One of the first products they developed was an easy to install hydraulic line kit. These lines are pressure tested and pre-assembled utilizing a -3 teflon hose encased in a braided stainless steel line.

Why do I need the clutch line?

When performing a K series swap you need to connect your clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder together. The stock clutch line on most k-swapped cars will not mate up to the slave cylinder on the k-series' transmission.The Hybrid Racing K-series Clutch Line Conversion allows the motion from the clutch pedal to be transferred to the clutch fork.

Can I use my OEM line?

The OEM lines are not designed to work with your engine swap. This line is the only full length K series clutch line available on the market.

Hybrid Racing has K-series Clutch Line Kits for the following applications: 92-95 Honda Civic, 96-00 Honda Civic, and 94-01 Acura Integra.

 

The master is going to be a flare fitting, I cant think of any Hondas that have -AN fittings from factory and unfortunately I forgot what I used for the CDV delete.

Thats probably why its leaking.

I want to say you are going to need a 10mmx1.0 flare to -3AN adapter.
Russell Performance 641431 - Russell Brake Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Just hope your threads arent fubar'd from the -AN fitting and need to be re-tapped, hope that helps J!

 

haha! success! tim at HR figured it out for me! they have a specific clutch line for all honda's and then one for the EM honda with a K swap. and guess what, the honda fit's clutch master calendar's fitting is the EXACT same part as the EM civic.

46941-S5A-A01 010 001 CONNECTOR, CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER

so if you get the Hybrid Racing clutch line cable for EM K swaps, this line will plug directly to the fit's master cylinder and the other end goes directly to the K series tranny. HELL YEAH!

 

Well for future reference can you ask Tim for the thread size?

 

I asked Hybrid Racing to get up in hurrr and post. I am only a tester/ researcher haha. They can really add a lot of positivity to many mysteries here.

 

That is awesome JCrim! Very helpful info for future K-swapers and current ones. Im going to have to take a look at how my clutch lines are know, maybe down the road I will switch them.

 

+1

10char

 

SO looking at my engine I have this long ass hard line that runs from the clutch master to the front of the engine, then a short rubber line, then another decent long hard line to the trans. That HR kit would replace all that right? I know now my next project.