Manual steering rack, new clutch/pressure plate, new intake manifold, new exhaust manifold, new wastegates, new transmission, LSD and engine installed.


Installed a bigger meth nozzle in the new throttle body elbow. More pics coming over the next few weeks, as the car is being dropped off for some fabrication (4.75" fender exit exhaust, hood dumped wastegates. FMIC mounts, 5" intake pipe, solid steering rack bushings etc.)










Also finally a new update for this thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...r-meth-20.html

 

Getting closer to start up. Do you think it will be running this year?

 

It should be running this year, but I likely won't be driving it. This chassis saw no salt or snow for the last decade and I don't want it to see any salt till I'm at Bonneville!

I'll have to wait for the spring to do anything fun besides post a few videos of the new exhaust and wastegate dump tubes during an anti-lag session ;-D

 

Getting ready for the catch can setup:

 

You have mentioned crankcase vacuum pumps in the past... The picture leads me to wonder if you will be using one on your project car... I hope I am in decent shape so I can head off for Utah when you are ready to run that monster..

 

I am going to attempt to use one of the fittings on the catch can and run it to the intake pipe pre-turbo, but since the intake pipe is going to be ~4.5" ID, there may be little or no vacuum there since it shouldn't be very restrictive.

So if that doesn't work, I will be using a large vac pump.

My Fabricator's wife just had a baby, so neither the race car or the Fit will be seeing much progress for the next couple weeks.

I also re-did some of my math and it looks like I need some bigger wastegates than originally planned. Those cost a pretty penny.

The funny thing is the primary wastegate of the manifold will be 60mm! Which is bigger than most other boosted Fit's exhaust pipe lol

But just the one 60mm will run almost $560 + shipping! And I still need a 44mm and those are expensive as hell too!

 

Sorry to hear about the setback but its winter and you cant drive it anyways. I cant wait to see it when its done.

 

This is true.

I am hoping to have some video of the new exhaust setup by late december early january.

I do have some of those blizzak performance winter tires on the car, but I doubt they'll get much use.

 

I think I may have to find a Kiggly Racing hydraulic lash adjustment regulator to keep as much oil in the pan as possible. Contemplating on routing a line from the base of the head down to the rear-balance shaft hump (OE balance shafts were deleted), so it's literally just a hump in the crank case to let oil just dump back over the exhaust side of the valvetrain on its way back to the pan under hard acceleration.

May have to modify the pick up tube as well to avoid cavitation.

 

Throw them on the FIT. Just kidding. I need to get my sons working on their cars. The turbo runs good now but because of the oil burning problem which is probably the oil return line in the oil pan, the car cant be tuned. No Boost yet. The engine was sitting to long and in the weather so it might not be fixable. The other car the motor is done but needs to put in if my son did not sell it. Its still at the speed shop.

 

Eh, I've run junkyard motors that sat for a couple years before just for giggles. Have you ever heard of the budget/junkyard races like "24 Hours of Lemons"

You'd be surprised how robust these things can be lol

If you guys decide to get back to work on it, or need a hand i'd be happy to help.

 

I will let you know, The tuner fixed the MAP problem but did not want to fix the oil problem.

My old avatar was a junk B20 motor with over 130000 miles supercharged and is still running. He built it to tune superchargers and the motor was clean. The green motor B16 has unknown miles and was beat to death by 2 different owners and won the import wars up north and I drove that car it would pin you to the seat and rev to 9000 rpm. It was sold running and rebuilt for a turbo application. He wanted a clean slate. Old Honda motors held up really good if it was tuned right. The jury is still out on the L series. The K motors are built really strong too. I am a little disappointed with the R motor but it has a lot of the K motor tech.

 

Well I opened up the HX52 and found it was in need of rebuild and a new comp wheel. There was some light FOD.

Bad news is this means Fit progress is delayed as this is the upgrade Billet 71mm inlet wheel, which is not a standard part (OEM wheels are 65 and 67)... so that's going to run me $645 plus another $250 for rebuild and balancing.

But the race car comes first when it comes to mods unfortunately.

At least the girlfriend was nice enough to buy me one of the TiAl 44's for my bday, so now I just need to get the 60mm gate, and take the car back in for another attempt at fabbing up the compound turbo manifold.

Ordinarily I could just leave the car there but some drunk guy hit my mom while he was driving with no lights on at night and totalled her car, so she is DD'ing my RAV4.

So now I only have the Fit and the new DSM which is currently in for exhaust fab and not running, and the old DSM was sold a couple months ago. So I won't be putting the Fit down for surgery since it is the only car I can use to commute 17 miles each way to work lol The shop I have do my exhaust fab work is 40 miles south of where I live, so whenever I take a car there, it has to stay for a few days at least.

But the show must go on!

 

Hey TEX, I found this site and I almost understand map compressor maps now. Compressor Maps | www.TurboneticsInc.com - Boosting Since 1978 | turbochargers, intercoolers, wastegates, blow-off valves, controls, boosting systems, turbo kits, forced induction parts & accessories I thought you might want to see this, they have a lot of info on Turbos and Coolers..

 

Thanks Glenn, I bookmarked the website.

 

Do you guys have any specific questions about reading compressor/turbine maps? I'd be happy to help and make some visual aids where possible.

 

I am sure I will but have to understand it enough to ask?

 

Not necessarily, you probably understand more than you think.

Turbine maps while they look simpler, are more involved for initial understanding to my way of thinking.

The compressor maps are pretty straight forward, though. Where the "islands" determine how much the turbo heats the air in those regions. The solid line furthest to the left is the surge line, off the map to the right is both where it will start to choke, and become exceedingly inefficient and IATs go through the roof.

The biggest challenge is figuring out what parts the engine will actually use.

This is where it comes in handy to have either a full VE table, or a best dyno run of the engine in question when NA. Preferably with calculated VE for every 500 or 1000rpm increment.

The torque curve is going to be the best representative of VE or airflow through the motor when NA and it is what I use (where available) when I start to do a rough layout for VE mods and turbo choices.

I have some illustrations tailored to our 1.5L and the VE I calculated for them in my big thread on the FI sub-forum here, to give you guys an idea.

Fortunately Dee, the Rotrex you have is a centrifugal compressor so the maps will be easily comparable for you.

The only difference is going to be the way the efficiency of the compressor changes with different turbine housings and wheels on on a turbo. The different turbine side combinations also affect what parts of the map are used, which is where the turbine maps come in handy.

We can save the turbine maps for later though.

So either of you should feel free to ask questions, or even pick a turbo/SC's compressor map and post it here and we can work through the example.

 

Nice project there dsm. I had a 1999gs with a 16g Turbo using the àem fic to tune.

 

I have been looking at getting into a 1G DSM for about a year now. Waiting for the right one. Do you still have the one you were looking to sell? If so can you PM me some details?