I found a nice site for buying turbos. Forced Performance Turbochargers

 

As I mentioned in my other thread... tried to up load a bunch of shots of both cars and the progress from the past couple months, but T-Mobile decided tonight was inconvenient so I only got two sent through. Anyways the 1G has Slotted and Cryo'd Brembo rotors at all 4 corners and Hawk HPS up front and some nice and quiet ProACTs in the back, SS lines all around and Motul DOT4.

 

More progress pics are trickling in.. Modded oil sump with baffling/windage and a -10AN turbo oil return fitting welded on:


Modified/baffled valve cover with Evo oil cap and -10AN breather fittings for the oil catch can coated 'ferrari' wrinkle black:



Fidanza Adjustable Cam gears:

 

More Teasers.. car is on the trailer to go back in for more fab work. Only have a few shitty cell pics but I havent updated in a while..

Out with the old cams:


New custom grind cams in and new valvecover with -10AN fittings for catchcan


Picked up another HX52, standard 67/99 compressor with an 84/71 turbine wheel.




Sat for a bit, so I needed to clean up a bit of rust:


After a little love with a super high grit diamond bar:


There is a good bit of funk on the comp wheel, but this will be used to get up and running while Diesel USA customizes my other HX52 with the billet 71mm wheel.

More stuff for this and my Fit build thread tomorrow.

 

Hey Chris, Do you think that there is much to be gained by having the throttle body bored 4mm before putting it on the Weapon R manifold?? I've been told the expect a decrease in power to 4500 RPM with the manifold by people that have used it NA and FI but not with the reflash though one guy that had it on the no2 research car said his car screamed with one on his car.. I'm also concerned about the effect it may have on AF/R but not so much that I'm going to blow off doing it unless some body has had a devastating experience by doing so... Everything I am doing has been a breeze because I have resigned myself to work slow, be thorough and takes breaks when I start hurting... I'm going to try to pull the engine mounts and hit them with Dura Mix which Koi says sets up in a few hours... I had to get a new header to head gasket and some Permatex ultra copper silicone sealer to liberally coat both sides of it to fix the exhaust leak if I don't find a hole in the header under the blanket and wrap.. If it leaks I'm getting a Weapon R racing header and will probably have to figure out how to tune via AEM AF/IC if dumping water and methanol into the intake doesn't help.. If Hondata says there is a device to tune it with that is easy to use and doesn't let the ECU take over and need to be messed with all of the time I'll start putting away more money... I had some Denso IK24 plugs come in a couple of days ago and and think I could use an ignition booster with them like I did with My Safari van when using 2 step colder platinum plugs after melting the electrodes on some only 1 step colder..HKS is all I can find that will work on the Fit.....I was big time surprised by how much better the van ran with the Mallory HiFire box and high dollar MSD plug wires... Anyway I'm still around from time to time and hope to be able to do all I can to it for power and at the same time kind of civilize it at the same time....

 

As far as boring out the T-Body, I would just port/gasket match everything. Same goes for whatever header you end up sticking with on the exhaust side.

Do you have a wideband oxygen sensor plumbed in to your downpipe? I would do that and mount the gauge on the dash before putting on the new intake manifold.

Otherwise you only have O2 voltage from the stock narrowband
and in open loop up top you will be running off the reflash maps and they may not be able to account for the amount of fuel you would need with a substantial change in VE that may result from a new intake, bigger t-body and a better flowing header (whether its because you change headers or port/gasket match the one you have now)

The water injection will also provide a change in mass flow because of how much denser it will make the charge. This too can skew your AFRs arguably dangerously lean under WOT-Open Loop operation in the event the ECU is not pouring enough fuel in.

This is where the FIC will have to come in.

Fortunately its a piggyback so really you should be able to just plug it in, leave everything zero'd out as the reflash already did most of the work you would have had to.. and then just see where you need to add fuel or pull timing.

Based on what you see there, i would contemplate throwing some methanol in the mix.

Are you using 1 or 2 nozzles? I would consider a single tiny 1GPH nozzle @ 150psi or greater about 4-5 inches infront of the Rotrex compressor wheel.

 

The MSD DIS-2 and other ignition boxes may not be needed but you wont really know till some symptoms that your getting "blowout" show up.

The motor mounts will help cutdown on that wheel hop thats probably been trying to make your diff commit sepuku.

 

Thanks Chris... I'll try and locate a bung for the down pipe then the Boom Slang harness and A/F gauge... I have figured the AF/IC would be up to doing what I will need it for.. So you think that a light shot of w/m into the blower intake will work and not cause problems? Wouldn't it also need a larger squirt between the I/C and T Body or perhaps into the manifold itself? Maybe 4 teensie little squirters for the runners?.. I'm thinking of using the under hood I/C behind the FMIC since I have a cooling fan to put in under it... I may send my manifold along with the T/B to be matched to the T/B bore but I think I can do it myself with a die cutter and dremel.... Oscar Jr. told me that the AEM was what they planned to use with the high boost kit but AEM and KW threw their hands into the air and gave up saying it wouldn't work... That worries me, but I mentioned that I thought it would be a good way to tune for W/M injection but he didn't respond one way or the other whether it would or not...If I put all of this stuff together and can't get it to work correctly you may hear a very obnoxiously loud little car pulling into your driveway... Maybe not though. I have been doing a little better lately from being outside with the dog getting exercise and more oxygen enriched blood circulating through what is left of my brain.

 

Wont he need bigger injectors too? A fuel regulator would help and I still think his ecu can be tuned but not sure on that but his Piggy back would work too.

 

Well Guys I can see that I am going to be doing the changes recommended and will soon order what I need to go with the F/IC I've had hidden behind some motorcycle luggage in my closet since late 2009.. It's going to have behind schedule on having things together, up and running but I have already been looking for the best deals I can get on this stuff... I'm thinking that with w/m injection I could do ok with the under the hood intercooler , since the Rotrex isn't super heating the intake system as much as would a turbo and I do have a fan the I can mount under the I/C... I will have enough room for a front mount I/C if it is needed.... It's just a few more hand fulls of hundred dollar bills that I won't have for purchasing other foolish things that are either bad for my health or would take up room that is already taken up by other crap I lost interest in.... At least the prices for old electric guitars and firearms are holding their value or appreciating somewhat in value, but they'd have to surge in price before I could say bye to them...

 

Parts still continue to trickle in.. SFI/NHRA Approved Flywheel Scattershield showed up last night:

 

Right now I'm waiting calls or emails on some old Northstar Cadillacs I am interested in... I drove about 1300 miles in the Forester between Friday arriving home at 3AM yesterday.. The thing was great in the mountains of Oklahoma, Arkansas and Missouri but the seat lacked the adjustment to different positions that I need to lessen back pain... The Caddy will be in the barn to use when I'm not able to drive that Fit because of the never ending constant arrival of performance parts I'm hoping to install when the weather is cooler and my worn out body and dwindling attention span... As the Fit was before this extended tear down it was becoming quite a challenge to drive with the throttle pedal pushed to the floor on challenging roads... I will be using one of Panson's throttle controllers set on one of the slower opening modes a lot of the time I'm driving it to avoid ending up as part of the landscape... A few years back a woman ended up disappearing for over a year when driving to Tyler to do some shopping.. Her car and decomposed body was found less than 100 feet from the busy 2 lane highway after the leaves had fallen and a truck driver decided to pull over and check to see if anyone was in the car.

 

Small Update - The race car is almost done and ready to run:









Hoping to make some low-boost pulls while the weather allows it and possibly dyno time.

Still need to pull together some of the small stuff.. like proper wheels and slicks.

Currently on a set of borrowed snow tires on some really ghetto wheels a friend has loaned me.

 

And one more:

 

Looks good, and see its at the shop so turning is not that far behind. What oil are you going to use? My sons car we are going to use Rotella T5 10w30.

Found this but you probably already know about it. It explains the problems with the high end cars with bearings spinning. http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

 

What the most impressive thing about this beast is how anyone could stuff so much stuff under the hood of a small Japanese car... I'm overwhelmed with how to make room under the hood of my Fit for what in comparison is small and that is locating the water/methanol tank where the spare tire goes....Doing one part at a time can end up needing to be relocated a few times as more parts are installed... I don't even want to think about the FMIC...

 

That shot of the turbo on the table looks uncannily like a bull. Or a satanic goat. Whichever pleases you.

 

I knew there was something evil going on here.

 

Usually I use Rotella T6 10w40.. this time probably VR1 or Brad Penn 20w50.

Motor is somewhat loose, and its mostly going to come down to what pressure readings I get at the turbo oil inlet and the cylinder head port off of the HLA rails.


It's going to get real crowded as everything gets put back in thats for sure. I've spent months designing and redesigning everything. Almost everything ahead of the shock towers has been modified. I would've front-halved the car if my class allowed it (P/SC - G Engine)

Hahaha I didn't see that till you pointed it out.

Hoping this thing will be up and running here in the next few weeks, but every time we find something that has to change we get set back a bit.

Unfortunately all the tracks up here will be closed, I may actually get to do my shakedowns on the dyno. Going to be on low boost for now, and then get put away till spring.

Then over the winter I have a monster set of custom cams going in.

 

I was doing some research because I thought they were waiting too long to do oil changes on my truck. I am now more comfortable after reading this. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/TDR57_Oil.pdf
This surprised me but good to know what the best oils are and that Shell 5w40 is one of them. Redline surprised me too. We use Valvoline Premium Blue.