What did you do to your GE fit today?
Here is the thread I created for making the rear trunk valence. Template is included in 4 parts so anyone can print it at their home on standard 8.5 x11 paper.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1368765
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1368765
Here is the thread I created for making the rear trunk valence. Template is included in 4 parts so anyone can print it at their home on standard 8.5 x11 paper.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1368765
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1368765
Got some nice drone shots of the Fit today (my friend has a Phantom 3), be on the lookout for those
Haha I try
Now I just gotta wait for my protectors before replacing the fog light. Hope the protector will help for future rocks!
Here is the thread I created for making the rear trunk valence. Template is included in 4 parts so anyone can print it at their home on standard 8.5 x11 paper.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1368765
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1368765
I installed my BC-racing coilovers Friday! Created a thread in the suspension forum but here are the important pics.
Pretty straight forward and nice improvement over Swifts/OEM Struts. Only thing is when the car is stationary...SOMETIMES...when I turn the wheel...the passenger front top rubber bushing will squeal. Like its rotating/rubbing on the chassis. Not sure if I was supposed to put a lubricant there...or what but thats the only concern at the moment besides needing to lift the rear a hair (like .25-.5") to avoid rubbing on sudden dips.
These are CRZ aluminum control arms, right? I've thought about getting them, let me know what you think!
So I raised it to where it sits now. With the swifts (1.2" drop from stock) the front fender was at 24.5"...with the extreme drop it was at 22.75 (2.95" drop from stock)...now its at about 24" (~1.75" drop from stock) and no rubbing...that I've heard. Haven't been on my usual "fast" on-ramps/corners to find out. SO I may go a little more in the front.
The rear...I may raise a hair. it was 23.5 with swifts (1" drop from stock), now its just around 22.5. Rear may actually benefit from a roll/pull to tuck the wheels perfectly.
Based on the measurements I am lower in the back than the front but its really hard to tell since the rear fender sits lower than the front to begin with. Time will tell. Alignment will tell if I need to change wheels. They are practically lined up with the fender now. poke is nearly gone. A slight pull may help or even going to a 7.5" wide wheel like the konig hypergrams would be awesome. Love the dial-ins...but "someone" has them already and not sure how I feel about copying haha.
Post #162 of DE36's build he shows off his custom flywheel.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1297091
Diffuser and tails look great!
can someone enlighten me on teamkitty's control arm and front brake upgrades?
Shinjari, get to a good ride height, then drive the car for a few hundred miles to let the springs settle in before readjusting. Also you may want to see if you can tighten the front mounting nuts to get rid of that rubber turning sound.
Shinjari, get to a good ride height, then drive the car for a few hundred miles to let the springs settle in before readjusting. Also you may want to see if you can tighten the front mounting nuts to get rid of that rubber turning sound.
So far with 100ish miles on my BC racings they are a definite improvement over the swifts. Gotta find the "sweet spot" for height and dampening but even right now its nice. Not jarring like it used to be.
can someone enlighten me on teamkitty's control arm and front brake upgrades?
Shinjari, get to a good ride height, then drive the car for a few hundred miles to let the springs settle in before readjusting. Also you may want to see if you can tighten the front mounting nuts to get rid of that rubber turning sound.
Shinjari, get to a good ride height, then drive the car for a few hundred miles to let the springs settle in before readjusting. Also you may want to see if you can tighten the front mounting nuts to get rid of that rubber turning sound.
Pretty sure those brake rotors are EBC USR850 rotors. Not sure whats with the new arms though. Lighter?
The aluminum arms are from a 2012+ Insight. CRZ arms are NOT a direct fit. After riding around lowered on eibach sportlines for the past 80k miles, I figured it was time for a ball joint replacement anyway, so I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade the entire assembly.
The Bilsteins are second hand from a fitfreak member. Should greatly improve the ride over the lowering springs I’ve had for the past 7 years.
For brakes, I’ve been running Hawk HP+ pads on Centric cryo-treated solid rotors for the past 80k miles. Pads are shot but the discs still look great (which is interesting because everything I’ve read about HP+ pads is that they eat rotors). I’m tired of the dust, so went with Hawk Ceramic pads and some gimmicky EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, because, why not.
Hope that helps!
Sure thing. Here are some deets on everything pictured:
The aluminum arms are from a 2012+ Insight. CRZ arms are NOT a direct fit. After riding around lowered on eibach sportlines for the past 80k miles, I figured it was time for a ball joint replacement anyway, so I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade the entire assembly.
The Bilsteins are second hand from a fitfreak member. Should greatly improve the ride over the lowering springs I’ve had for the past 7 years.
For brakes, I’ve been running Hawk HP+ pads on Centric cryo-treated solid rotors for the past 80k miles. Pads are shot but the discs still look great (which is interesting because everything I’ve read about HP+ pads is that they eat rotors). I’m tired of the dust, so went with Hawk Ceramic pads and some gimmicky EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, because, why not.
Hope that helps!
The aluminum arms are from a 2012+ Insight. CRZ arms are NOT a direct fit. After riding around lowered on eibach sportlines for the past 80k miles, I figured it was time for a ball joint replacement anyway, so I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade the entire assembly.
The Bilsteins are second hand from a fitfreak member. Should greatly improve the ride over the lowering springs I’ve had for the past 7 years.
For brakes, I’ve been running Hawk HP+ pads on Centric cryo-treated solid rotors for the past 80k miles. Pads are shot but the discs still look great (which is interesting because everything I’ve read about HP+ pads is that they eat rotors). I’m tired of the dust, so went with Hawk Ceramic pads and some gimmicky EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, because, why not.
Hope that helps!
Anyone have issues getting an alignment after getting lowered? Always was a concern since they have to drive it on a lift/ramp. I dont recall how low my civic was in comparison but didnt seem to have any issues getting that car done.
Sure thing. Here are some deets on everything pictured:
The aluminum arms are from a 2012+ Insight. CRZ arms are NOT a direct fit. After riding around lowered on eibach sportlines for the past 80k miles, I figured it was time for a ball joint replacement anyway, so I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade the entire assembly.
For brakes, I’ve been running Hawk HP+ pads on Centric cryo-treated solid rotors for the past 80k miles. Pads are shot but the discs still look great (which is interesting because everything I’ve read about HP+ pads is that they eat rotors). I’m tired of the dust, so went with Hawk Ceramic pads and some gimmicky EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, because, why not.
Hope that helps!
The aluminum arms are from a 2012+ Insight. CRZ arms are NOT a direct fit. After riding around lowered on eibach sportlines for the past 80k miles, I figured it was time for a ball joint replacement anyway, so I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade the entire assembly.
For brakes, I’ve been running Hawk HP+ pads on Centric cryo-treated solid rotors for the past 80k miles. Pads are shot but the discs still look great (which is interesting because everything I’ve read about HP+ pads is that they eat rotors). I’m tired of the dust, so went with Hawk Ceramic pads and some gimmicky EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, because, why not.
Hope that helps!
Heard good things from Alpina and others about the bilsteins. Lack of dampening and strut length adjustment is what deterred me from getting them. They cost about the same. Bilsteins do have a lifetime warranty though so thats nice.
So far with 100ish miles on my BC racings they are a definite improvement over the swifts. Gotta find the "sweet spot" for height and dampening but even right now its nice. Not jarring like it used to be.
So far with 100ish miles on my BC racings they are a definite improvement over the swifts. Gotta find the "sweet spot" for height and dampening but even right now its nice. Not jarring like it used to be.
I don't need crazy adjust-ability or damping settings. My AP1 is low & had like 30 clicks in its soft-stiff range....that I've set to dead center all around & will never touch lol. I just want the Fit to be a bit more stable on the highway, more than anything else. The S2000 is probably 3" from the ground at the frame rails & is MAD stable.
Thanks in advance!