I can confirm over the winter my mpg was 30 over 3 tanks of gas for my comute which is mixed city and highway.

Also concur with heat and shortram type intake sucks way to much heat in summer. I have my filter now sitting in front of my radiator for summer and it eliminates most of the heatsoak issues in city driving.
Biggest issue I had with short ram intake was turbulence in the maf causing limp mode after I removed restrictor. The maf reading would spike to 5 volts at a couple of rpm points. I installed an air straitener before the maf which smoothed out the readings significantly.

Water injection is amazing in summer. I completely forgot how much it helps until I removed it for competition last year. This year I was to lazy to put it in and can tell the difference. I have a digital readout on my dash of the blowers output air temp and it tends to stick at 150F consistently on hot days during normal driving. Last year with injection (only triggered under boost and high rpm) it was a steady 135F consistantly. On track without injection I would see 175F or more depending on weather. Though with 110 octane it made up for it .

On 93 octane heat will rape you pretty good, can't imagine what it does with 91 octane.

 

I must be enjoying mine way too much. I'm still tuning with turbogixxer and since starting ive gone through 4 tanks of gas. Mpgs were 16-20-20-21.

 

My MPG's are also similar to yours!
I calculate using how many mileage I drive vs. how many gallons I filled up,
I don't rely on the speedometer mpg calculation (which show 29mpg) because it is not longer accurate.

I think my AFR is too rich anyway which contribute to low mpg and not much power differences at open loop, but at least for now my engine is safe.
Will try to learn more about tuning when I have time...

 

The air straightener is a very good idea. Where did you source the honeycomb? I am too cheap to spend $92 on the one from eBay.

 

Solved my pulsation problem (at vacuum hose that connect to MAP sensor of AEM F/IC-6), full DIY at the link below:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1350642

with Industrial Pneumatic Flow Control Needle Valve:

 

Since I install Sprintex, it always took 2 crank before I can start the car...
Do you guys had this problem?

Anyway, today the problem become a bit worse and now take 3 or 4 crank befor I can start the car, so I change my spark plug back to IK-22 from IK-24.

Here is what the IK-24 looks, look like it is too cold for my application or too rich...

What do you guys think?

 

Could be both really. Maybe check the ik22s in a couple days?

 

Yeah I'm way too cheap myself.
I made my own. I took thinwall small diameter steel tube (cheap curtain rod), sliced it into short sections on chop saw. Threw them in some acetone to get the coating off. Stuffed them carefully into a scrap exhaust pipe of the same diameter until I got a honeycomb like pattern.
Hit them with propane torch and soldered together. Popped them out of pipe clean ed with solvent and hit them with couple light coats of paint.

Good bit of time was spent fitting the peices in tightly with needlenose pliers.

 

Might be worth a junkyard crawl, some cars come with them stock, might be able to pull the honeycomb bit out of another one?

 

Eh, around here the all the u-pull-it junk yards are cheap and then they rape you anyways. Ebay is cheaper usually, to many customers and too few junk yards around here.

Think it's just the cost of real estate and fact that many towns don't want junk yards around them here. Also the guys at the counter all seem to be major asses and I'm to old and short tempered to deal with beligerance like that.

 

Happy to report the IK-22 solve the problem of hard start,
it still need a longer crank than non sprintex era, but no problem at all.

I just order 8 piece of Denso IK-22 brand new from Amazon (4 for spares),
once they arrive, I will remove this old IK-22 and see how they look like (too rich or not).

 

Black used to mean too rich, and white too lean... my two cents.

 

True, but too cold of a plug will look the same as too rich.

 

Long cranking times can be a crank or cam position sensor thats just at the weak end of the spectrum. I've swapped them out on a couple cars with over 100K and they immediately started firing quicker. It can also indicate a bad check valve in the fuel pump so when the car shuts down the fuel runs back to the tank. So your waiting for the pump to get things back up to pressure to fire the injectors correctly..

 

Hi Chris, yes, I think my IK-24 is too cold plus it retract too much so it don't burn well, the IK-22 protrude a bit less than the IK-20 which is ideal.
My new Denso IK-22 is on it's way (buy cheap at Amazon), and as soon as I had it, I will took out this old IK-22 that I had to see how it is doing...
I do also feel my top end is a bit rich, Church must tune it that way since my supercharger was having heat soak while being tune due to no 5th injector and no water/meth injection.
I had decided that I will install water injection in the future, Steven Hung inspire me with his plan for Aquamist system... hopefully next year
after JDP ventilated hood, Setrab Oil Cooler, and Recaro Seat...

Hi,
I don't think my crank/cam position sensor is week since I only have about 45,000 miles...
plus after I change the plug to IK-22, (even it is an old one),
I can started it right away (took about 1.5 to 2 times longer than it take while stock, but I just hold on to the start key position and it will start normally)...

I also check the fuel pressure while the ignition on, and ignition off,
and then wait for few minutes, and the fuel pressure gauge show no leak (the pressure stay at 40 psi with ignition off and 50 psi with ignition on and 58psi with engine running) so no problem with the return valve/check valve function.

most likely this is purely spark plug combine with slightly higher AFR at Open Loop, close loop is good.
Again will see soon in few days when I replace the plug again.

 

I adjust the Fuel Map on the AEM F/IC-6 today.
Every table above the 22.1psi Absolute Pressure (MAP) were adjusted 1 step leaner (less fuel).
The Effect is significant, the hesitation at top end is gone now!
The car now accelerate smoothly and eagerly from 4,200rpm where the VTEC activated to redline!

Open Loop AFR now change from 10.3-10.5 to 11.3-11.5.

I also notice my intake air temperature after idling at Mc Donalds drive through shoot to 50 Celcius (122 Fahrenheit), while the ambient temperature tonight is at 79 Fahrenheit.

I really need to get JDP Carbon Ventilated Hood soon plus Setrab Oil Cooler...

 

New toys. Sprintex 70mm and 65 mm pulleys good for ~11 psi and ~12 psi respectively I believe. Pulley puller from Track Dog Racing. I don't have the pulley installer yet. Don't know when I will be installing the 70 mm because the pulley will likely blow out the stock muffler per Sprintex caution. My exhaust system is being sorted in the next couples of weeks.

 

Nice! I've been searching high and low for pulleys that fit.

If you want, I will test one of those for you and I would even cover your shipping charges because I'm such a nice guy like that!

EDIT: I dont see the pulleys listed on thier website can you link where youy got it from?

 

Hi Steven,

Congratulations on the pulley, i hope i can get mine soon...
Have you order the Aquamist HSF-3?

 

Does the Sprintex have the blower bypass valve? (Eaton style?) Just curious..