Bigger pump is like insurance, it just lets you rest easy that you won't be leaning out due to lack of fuel pressure. I'm not convinced that you need it either, but for $50 for an Evo one it wasn't worth the risk to me.

I'm seeing the same injector duty cycle as you... around 50-55%.

I have an E85 pump down the block, I'm wondering if there's enough headroom in the pump and injectors to give it a whirl w/ a new map.

I think my tune is pretty much done except for the P2227... from what I've read about it, that's an internal ECU thing, hopefully gets resolved but hasn't affected driving at all.

1st gear is kind of "jerky" slightly hard to drive in rush hour traffic but nothing like driving a 6 puck.

I bought the Hikeren ODB2 bluetooth adapter (it has an on and off switch). I've used it like twice just to see boost levels.

And yes, its hard to to stay off of the rev limiter in 1st gear

 

Google returns a couple of results that mention replacing the MAP sensor.

Maybe the ECU is still expecting less than 1-bar of pressure from the MAP and throwing that code when it sees more than 1-bar.

Have you tried plugging the MAP sensor wires back to the one in the elbow, then clear the code and see if that's related?

But then again, jibberjabbs doesn't have the code now...

 

I still am getting the p2227. Seems to occasionally trigger with a sharp jab to the throttle. I believe this issue has come up with Flashpro and they have a disable feature. Ktuner is working on it.

E85 ....... Surprisingly there has not been much talk on this subject. We should explore these options though!

I have been contemplating raising the redline a bit. It comes so fast in first gear. I wonder how it would effect 0-60?

First gear has always been touchy on this car. I believe the aggressive DBW curve and low gearing attribute to this, more power just makes it worse.

 

I seem to be okay with 1st gear most of the time (if you ignore my habit of burning off my tires)... the gears I have a tendency to trigger the rev limiter are 2nd/3rd when I'm entering the highway.

Way too often I find myself suddenly leaning forward and realizing I should shift gears. The car just doesn't want to let go of the gear... it just wants to keep accelerating. >.<

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Finally decided to take a look at the OBDLink MX you were talking about and put an order in through Amazon ( $100 =.=" ). I might stick to the software it comes with, instead of Torque (lite or pro). I know Torque used to have an add-on plugin for knock detection (pro only?), but it's no longer on Google play and I can't figure out if the developer integrated it into the app or left it as a user add-able sensor.

In any case, what sold me was the ability to read the freeze frame (something the UG doesn't do, at least for now).

Hum, the thing is, I really like the fact the UG is setup (nestled in the corner window) and I don't have to mess with it to see data (aside from changing pages if I want to see different data). I'm not looking forward to having to constantly switch my phone to the app all the time to use. Oh well, something to decide on when it arrives.

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E85? Well, I don't know much, if anything about using E85. But regardless of what little I think I know, the fact is there's no convenient gas station with E85 around. All of them are quite out of the way.

 

Goobers, I picked up a spare phone ($20 at Target on clearance). If you set it up correctly it will turn on and off with the ignition, and it charges enough while driving to keep it running. I have not missed my UG.

Here is how I mounted it:

 

Well, I'm thinking of getting a new phone, so my current phone could be a spare. However, I haven't seen anything that indicates I can set it up for powering on and off with the car. The most likely set up would be to just leave it on.

As a side note, I can't put my phone there, unless I use some sort of adhesive mount. I've knocked things off from there.

But like I said, something to decide on.

 

I use this. I don't even have a CD burner in any of my computers, and I just stream stuff via bluetooth anyway. Should work well to mount any kind of phone.

 

Howdy. I've been through the entire thread, I'm considering ordering this kit at the end of the month for my '10 Sport Auto. What additional items do you guys recommend I pickup to get the kit running as hiccup free as possible (from going through all 47 pages I see that a 100% perfect running setup is sort of a pipe dream)

I drive my car about 40 miles a day and just want some extra power to get it moving. Engine is currently stock save for a Spoon Air Filter. 88k miles.

 

^You should definitely consider getting only the SC hardware from Sprintex and going with Ktuner for engine management. Just wait a bit until we get this P2227 CEL figured out. If you go with the Ktuner you will need bigger injectors. Also a tune from Turbogixxer would be a great idea. The SMT8L piggy back that comes with the kit is difficult to install, tune, and is unreliable.

 

If you get just the SC Hardware, does it come with the Blocking Plate to plug the fifth injector holes?

and if I plan to use AEM F/IC, is there any parts from the Full SC kit (including smt8) that I might need that is not available when I get the SC hardware only?

 

Awesome, this is what I needed to hear! Are there links available to purchase the KTuner/Turbogixxer tune? Didn't see any through navigating through the 40+ pages of this thread (or I missed it)

Also seems to be the norm that RDX injectors are good for upgrading the injectors?

 

Ktuner:
Turbogixxer Tuning :: Ktuner :: Ktuner Flash cable :: 2009-2010 2012-2013 Fit Ktuner End user cable

Ktuner etune service:
Turbogixxer Tuning :: Tuning Services :: E Tuning Service

TurboGixxer (Kenny) has gone above and beyond to get this setup working for us. The eTune is an awesome value!

The RDX injectors seem to be the way to go, just need to make sure you get the connectors figured out, I was not 100% satisfied with swapping the connector housing, the pins did not click into place. I would suggest using the adapters, but be mindful of how tight the space is in there! I also believe there are 310cc accord v6 injectors that would plug right in and give you plenty of capacity, but I went with the RDX because others had used them.

BMWAlpina, Better confirm with Gary at Sprintex, if they can do the hardware only kit still and what the kit would include. They may have a better solution to plug the 5th injector?

 

These are the RDX injectors I got (w/ adapters). You can find them on ebay.

 

Jibberjabbs & portron,

I take it, neither of you guys have tried using the MAP in the factory location to see if the P2227 code stays away?

 

I believe Portron used it in the stock location for a bit. But we are now using the MAP to determine Open loop so I don't think we can do that anymore.

 

Yep, can't see boost in the stock location because its pre-blower.

 

Yes, I know, but that's not the issue. Does it still trigger the P2227 code?

If it doesn't, then something needs to be done. Most likely some sort of signal suppressor or a change in the MAP sensor to something with a large enough range that the signal going to the ECU is LOW (and stays within the ECU's expected range)... then whatever tuning map is adjusted for it.

Since the MAP sensor can see boost, it's most likely not a 1-bar sensor. If it's a 2-bar sensor with a 0-5v range (and the ECU expects only 0v-2.5v out of that range), then maybe replacing it with a 3 bar (or 4?!?) sensor can drop the boosted signal down into that 0v-2.5v range. Then again, maybe it is only a 1-bar sensor and it literally blowing out the range.

Cause I'm guessing the boost signal is triggering an "out of range" fail on the ECU's tests... and I don't think what the ECU tests gets modified by the tune.

BUT, if it does trigger, then at least its one less item for KTuner to check.

~~~~~

Looking through the service manual, one of the first things it says to check when dealing with a P2227 code, is if P0107, P0108, P1128 and/or P1129 codes set. So, you would think those codes would show up. But even after that, the diagnostic process includes inspecting the air intake system for clogs and other stuff. That means it's still tied to the intake system in some way.

 

^ Its not a sensor voltage range issue, there are separate codes for those. P2227 seems to be a correlation test between measured pressure sensors and calculated pressure. The conditions of the fault are proving hard to find. I have looked at the SAE J1979 and J2012, EPA, and CARB standards, no helpful details there. The most info I found was in some Ford document:






Something like this, but Honda specific might be useful.

Also Sprintex is having a 10% off black Friday sale

 

You did read the end part of my post, right? Where I said I have the service manual for the Fit and it specifies that you check for P0107, P0108, P1128 and/or P1129 codes?

Those ARE definite MAP sensor codes.

The point of it, is that these codes, when cleared, can ALSO clear a P2227 code in some cases, according to the service manual.

~~~~~

Here's a post from some 5 years ago, where the car tripped the same P2227 code, with no mention of even the four codes I mentioned... and it was because of a damaged MAP sensor. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tml#post863645

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I get that the ECU is tuned with the MAP sensor in the post-blower location and you guys are afraid of blowing the engine or what have you if you put the sensor in the pre-blower (factory) location to test. In addition, it cost time/money to have to even temporarily tuned to a safe map in an effort to test a pre-blower MAP location.

But you guys do realize that of the few people I've seen with P2227 codes, 1 had a damaged MAP sensor, and two (you guys) MOVED the MAP sensor.

~~~~

That said... I won't be continuing this topic. You guys test or don't test, up to you.

 

Ooh really. To sprintex I go. Thanks!