What did you do to your GE fit today?
Hi Burzpaw,
On my car,
Previously the rub were at the fender near the 3 o'clock position.
about 2 to 3in above where the fender meet the side skirt.
Currently I had a JDM Mugen Side Skirt and the side skirt part where it mount to the fender were intrude into the inside fender and the upper edge of it have rubbing mark. It rub there when I have my older wheel size 18x7et42 with 225/40ZR18 tires.
But now I use 18x7.5et 48 with 215/40ZR18 and it do not rub there...
the 18x7et42 and 18x7.5et48 outer side
actually happened to be right at the same position to the fender,...
it is just that the 18x7.5et48 inner side is 12mm more inside
then the 18x7et42...
that mean the smaller 215/40ZR18 tire that I use now combine with wider 7.5in wheel stretch it more toward inside and that is why no more rubbing the JDM Mugen Side Skirt...
Still if I you can install 3mm spacer and make yours et33,
then after cut/grind the edge of my JDM Mugen Side Skirt mounting,
I should not rub since as you had point out I am not as lower as you and my rear spring at 4k rate should be hard enough to not let my car go too low...
The reason I really need to know whether et33 is doable for you
is because I need to decide whether to buy a 15mm spacer or 12mm spacer for the rear,
then decide how many mm I need to grind my ARP stud...
because I want to grind/cut the ARP stud as minimal as possible.
If I don't grind/cut the ARP stud that I had to use open style lug nut and
I prefer to use my BBS lug nut...
This afternoon I grind the ARP stud right before the thread start
and I can use my BBS wheel lock/nut with 15mm spacer combo
for the front axle and it is fine for the front axle.
but if I need to use 12mm spacer (for the rear axle),
then I need to grind 3mm more into the threaded area of the ARP stud...
and I don't like to grind threaded area because I worry I might destroy the thread...
plus once you grind/cut the stud, you can not go back...
so I better make sure...
I also want to grind the ARP stud before I install my RS rear axle on my car, so those fire sparks from my electric grinder while cutting the ARP stud will not fly around and hit the paint/body...
I mean to be safe I can always get just 10mm or 12mm spacer,
but just like you,
I want to be at maximum stance without rubbing
So looking forward to your experiment with another 3mm spacer,
I certainly hope you will not rub, so I can follow your footstep soon
On my car,
Previously the rub were at the fender near the 3 o'clock position.
about 2 to 3in above where the fender meet the side skirt.
Currently I had a JDM Mugen Side Skirt and the side skirt part where it mount to the fender were intrude into the inside fender and the upper edge of it have rubbing mark. It rub there when I have my older wheel size 18x7et42 with 225/40ZR18 tires.
But now I use 18x7.5et 48 with 215/40ZR18 and it do not rub there...
the 18x7et42 and 18x7.5et48 outer side
actually happened to be right at the same position to the fender,...
it is just that the 18x7.5et48 inner side is 12mm more inside
then the 18x7et42...
that mean the smaller 215/40ZR18 tire that I use now combine with wider 7.5in wheel stretch it more toward inside and that is why no more rubbing the JDM Mugen Side Skirt...
Still if I you can install 3mm spacer and make yours et33,
then after cut/grind the edge of my JDM Mugen Side Skirt mounting,
I should not rub since as you had point out I am not as lower as you and my rear spring at 4k rate should be hard enough to not let my car go too low...
The reason I really need to know whether et33 is doable for you
is because I need to decide whether to buy a 15mm spacer or 12mm spacer for the rear,
then decide how many mm I need to grind my ARP stud...
because I want to grind/cut the ARP stud as minimal as possible.
If I don't grind/cut the ARP stud that I had to use open style lug nut and
I prefer to use my BBS lug nut...
This afternoon I grind the ARP stud right before the thread start
and I can use my BBS wheel lock/nut with 15mm spacer combo
for the front axle and it is fine for the front axle.
but if I need to use 12mm spacer (for the rear axle),
then I need to grind 3mm more into the threaded area of the ARP stud...
and I don't like to grind threaded area because I worry I might destroy the thread...
plus once you grind/cut the stud, you can not go back...
so I better make sure...
I also want to grind the ARP stud before I install my RS rear axle on my car, so those fire sparks from my electric grinder while cutting the ARP stud will not fly around and hit the paint/body...
I mean to be safe I can always get just 10mm or 12mm spacer,
but just like you,
I want to be at maximum stance without rubbing

So looking forward to your experiment with another 3mm spacer,
I certainly hope you will not rub, so I can follow your footstep soon
With the jdm rear axle you could just throw in a little bit of camber and you'd be fine! That's what I would do if I swapped my axle-- matching camber front and back;
I can not because the JDM RS rear axle had the same design as USDM,...
it just have the mounting point for rear disk brake caliper,... and slightly different hub design due to one for drum and one for rotor that is the only differences,
but it is still a welded design so can not do any camber...
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; Dec 17, 2015 at 03:18 AM.
Oh, no,
I can not because the JDM RS rear axle had the same design as USDM,...
it just have the mounting point for rear disk brake caliper,... and slightly different hub design due to one for drum and one for rotor that is the only differences,
but it is still a welded design so can not do any camber...
I can not because the JDM RS rear axle had the same design as USDM,...
it just have the mounting point for rear disk brake caliper,... and slightly different hub design due to one for drum and one for rotor that is the only differences,
but it is still a welded design so can not do any camber...
Hi, all Fit/Jazz GE in Japan/Asia/Europe, they all have welded design whether it is RS or regular model... so all of them have non adjustable camber...
the only one with different rear suspension is the EV which have independent rear suspension, but I don't think it can be retrofit to non EV since EV have different chassis due to the battery...
by the way, the pictures of your car above is very Artistic, Gorgeous
Thanks for the pictures,
but your configuration with 15in wheel allow you to have much more offset
then mine since your total diameter (including tire) is about 1.7in smaller then mine or radius of 0.85in smaller...
Yeah I want to go up to a 205/55/15 (24") next time I get tires to match the stock 195/55/16 (24"). These 205/50/15 are only 23.1"
I'm actually surprised how close to flush these wheels are to the fender. glad I don't have to use any spacers.
I'm actually surprised how close to flush these wheels are to the fender. glad I don't have to use any spacers.
Thanks!
Hi, all Fit/Jazz GE in Japan/Asia/Europe, they all have welded design whether it is RS or regular model... so all of them have non adjustable camber...
the only one with different rear suspension is the EV which have independent rear suspension, but I don't think it can be retrofit to non EV since EV have different chassis due to the battery...
by the way, the pictures of your car above is very Artistic, Gorgeous
the only one with different rear suspension is the EV which have independent rear suspension, but I don't think it can be retrofit to non EV since EV have different chassis due to the battery...
by the way, the pictures of your car above is very Artistic, Gorgeous

And thanks!
Just recently bro haha, did it after finals
it's vinyl-- still up in the air if I'm going to make more to sell or possibly do something with fiberglass because it was somewhat challenging to install but I have a few people interested in a set.
it's vinyl-- still up in the air if I'm going to make more to sell or possibly do something with fiberglass because it was somewhat challenging to install but I have a few people interested in a set.
REALLY liking those eyelids bro, I love how they match the rest of your car... If you start making them lmk.
Got 35% tint all around, waiting a few days for it to dry/cure and then I'm gonna install the OEM window visors. Currently trying to source an FA5 leather steering wheel to swap for the OEM one. Mugen floor mats on the way also.

I'm the total opposite and liked the sleepy eye look that flat designed headlights from other cars could have so I did this lol.


