d2 lowering springs, truhart struts and shocks, 16" sport wheels, and a progress rsb. car feels so much better

 

Hello Malubawla,
If I am not mistaken, from your post above, my understanding is your current car is not the "sport" model? if my assumption is correct, you can benefit from replacing your current rear axle with a rear axle from a Honda Fit GE Sport model,
because the Sport model came with an internal rear sway bar inside the rear axle. You might be able to find a low mileage SPORT rear axle on a junk yard (that totaled due to front end collision) and it should not be expensive.

 

 

Before I change to my current Ohlins coilover due to the need of higher spring rate from my brake setup, I use Bilstein coilover and they are very very good in term of road comfort and handling and of course Height Adjustable.
I bought the Bilstein coilover kit at TireRack, I think slightly below $900. They had gone up a bit to $962 now at Tirerack, but I assure you that you will not be disappointed. They have lifetime warranty and still MADE in GERMANY
Here is the link to tirerack:
https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...oModClar=Sport

Video of Bilstein testing and developing the coilover kit using the Honda Fit GE on the test track:


and here is my review after I install the Bilstein on my car (you will also find my review of Spoon Front Sway Bar and Progress Rear Sway Bar on this thread):
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1185733

Pictures of the Bilstein Coil Over and picture of my car at that time right after I install Bilstein:

 

Well i got the supercharger all bolted up. I Could not get the broken screw that secures the MAP sensor on the supercharger manifold out. Might have to get a machine shop to help. Grade 12.9 screws are hard to drill.I just test drove it with the sensor plugged in but not screwed down. I dont know if that could cause any problems.

Any way, I'm having some problems with it stalling out. It seems to be kinda random but sometimes it happens after being on the throttle and then getting off of it. When i go to push the gas again it sputters and stalls and i get a misfire code for most cylinders. I checked the O2 sensor ( the AF ratio sensor NOT the post cat sensor) And it seems to be running super rich. ( the current is -1 to -2 milliamps ) The Short term fuel trim is over 40 and the long term between 2-7 ish. Anyone know what i could try to fix it? The car is idling around 680-715 RPM The weird thing is the Equivalence ratio on my scanner is showing the car LEAN. 1.3-1.999) I don't think the car is lean because all the o2 sensors are telling me its rich and I can smell fuel in the exhaust IM just confused now..

 

I just read something about how honda AF sensors will read a positive current when rich and a negative when lean? Im confused which one to believe. My post cat o2 sensor is at about 800-950 mV whitch seems to be running rich. why would one sensor be saying lean and one rich?

 

Maybe it IS related to the MAP sensor not being screwed down? I mean, since that thing is a pressure sensor and you're not fully bolting down the sensor, it's not creating a proper seal. That makes the sensor think it's getting a TON of air and dumping a bunch of fuel to "match." But then most of that air is ESCAPING out around the MAP sensor, meaning the engine is actually getting far less air but still a lot of fuel.

Considering where the MAP sensor is mounted (on the manifold between the supercharger and engine) and the pressure the manifold will come under, I'm surprised it hasn't popped off since it's not bolted down.

 

I'm going to see if unplugging the piggyback and starting does anything to the fuel. If so then I'm probably going to go back to stock for a while and send the supercharger to a shop to get the screw out . And then I'll probably ditch the piggy back and go ktuner.

 

 

Yeah I used kroil and tried the vice grips. It just digs in and wants to break the screw more.. I don't know how it got so stuck

 

 

Yeah maybe. I hope not. I don't want to pay to get it re tapped..

 

Goobers, what do you think of my scanner telling me the current for the air fuel ratio sensor is negative. From what I have researched this would indicate the AFR is rich. The post cat o2 sensor seems to confirm that being around .800-.950 mV. However the lambda on the scanner is saying its lean. ( 1.999 at idle to 1.3 under a little boost. I know it could be caused by the MAP sensor being loose but why would that cause the computer to put so much fuel in? Is it just confused that the air isn't there and it ends up being to rich? why would the lambda be wrong when its based on the o2 sensors? Ill include the pics of the scanner.

First pic is the Post cat o2 sensor and the 2nd has the air fuel sensor and lambda

Pictures of scan tool data

 

I think you need to ignore all that and focus on fixing the MAP sensor mounting first... because no matter what you do, if the ECM (or the piggyback) isn't getting the right air intake reading, it'll just be a mess anyway.

Once that's sorted out, it's possible the rest will clear up with it. At worse, you'll have one less variable to deal with.

 

Okay. Should I just call a machine shop and see if they will try to get the screw out of there. I don't think I'll be able to do it myself.

 

I gave up and went back to (new) EBC BSD850 rotors (similar to their USR series) and new Wilwood pads. Man, the previous pads were barely used... such a waste. The centric rotors still had the manufacturing marks on them as I pulled them off... but I hate them, so I don't care. It was a waste to buy them in the first place. Also changed the brake fluid and engine oil and of course, since the wheels were off, rotated them.

The goal is to have a "reset" and not have to worry about issues leftover.

And finally, though it doesn't seem to look any different, I bent the brass bracket that Wilwood uses to hold the pads in place. My goal is to have the pads sit oh-so-slightly closer to the hub as they wear down, as they sit just past the edge of OEM sized rotors. The issue is that bit that doesn't get chewed away makes it look like it has a lot of life left. Hopefully the bending works.

 

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For long distance road trips! Saves costs on a hotel for the night. Will be even more useful on multiple day drives.