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This upgrade made a huge difference!! I have ~ 5,500 miles since I changed these brakes, including a round-trip from AL to CA. I've pushed the brakes pretty hard on occasion, particularly on the long winding (and fun!!) road leading to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, and CA Hwy 9 from Saratoga to Santa Cruz (one of my all-time favorites from my motorcycle days) and not a hint of fade, no warping and holy crap do they slow this little car down in a big hurry!! MUCH better than the stock pieces. About the only downside is that they are a little noisy when cold, but only a little.
Hard to beat for the price. In fact, I can't think of any reason to use the stock parts when replacing front brakes on a Fit.
A search found these - Z26. Do they look like what you got?
today at lunch i racked the car and did an oil change, first time under the car, it looks like a hot wheels car, all belly pans and an exhaust. 300 ish miles on the fit, i like to dump the factory fill by 500 miles, but i have an 800 mile weekend coming up. used an A01 filter, and honda genuine full synthetic (5.70/quart thru one of my suppliers)
also popped in some 90's civic center caps into the steel wheels.
installed some factory honda carpet floor mats.
did a driver seat mod, raised the front of the seat 1.25" with an aluminum spacer i turned down on the lathe.
today at lunch i racked the car and did an oil change, first time under the car, it looks like a hot wheels car, all belly pans and an exhaust. 300 ish miles on the fit, i like to dump the factory fill by 500 miles, but i have an 800 mile weekend coming up. used an A01 filter, and honda genuine full synthetic (5.70/quart thru one of my suppliers)
also popped in some 90's civic center caps into the steel wheels.
installed some factory honda carpet floor mats.
did a driver seat mod, raised the front of the seat 1.25" with an aluminum spacer i turned down on the lathe.
I've been getting Mobil 1 in 5 quart jugs from Amazon for a little less than that when it's on sale.
I've been getting Mobil 1 in 5 quart jugs from Amazon for a little less than that when it's on sale.
five quart jugs are a pain in the butt. I prefer quarts, I stock Mobil 1 at the shop, but not in 0w20. Its not about the $, it’s about easy to get, I can have the Honda oil delivered with the click of a mouse thru a parts program at work.
five quart jugs are a pain in the butt. I prefer quarts, I stock Mobil 1 at the shop, but not in 0w20. Its not about the $, it’s about easy to get, I can have the Honda oil delivered with the click of a mouse thru a parts program at work.
Pain n the butt? How about this? Using a collection of empty 5-qt containers, fill each one to the 3.5 qt mark so I have just the right amount for each oil changes. We have two Fits in the family, so I change oil more often than most people. Yes, it can be a bit of a nuisance doing that, but I prefer to keep one large container on the shelf, rather than four small ones. The larger containers are good for bringing old oil to the recycling center.
That’s all well and good when you’re at home in a garage. I have 7 lifts, 5 55 gallon waste oil barrels, and a whole shop at my disposal. Mill, lathe, bandsaw, welders, etc etc.
Tonight I decided to replace the (broken again) rear garnish on my LX, but got side-tracked by a little experiment on the old one with some red electrical tape. My son says +5 whp so I will get a piece of red vinyl film and do the new one before I install it.
There's one thing I will never get used-to - rubber-banding in first gear and when shifting to second. It's caused by a group of design decisions which favor vibration isolation and easy launches over good driving dynamics (too much flywheel inertia). The ultimate cure is a lightened flywheel but that has to wait until I do the clutch. I thought about an aftermarket torque mount or modding the stock one with urethane, but those solutions seemed likely to be too stiff and make the car vibrate like crazy. Plus I'm cheap and have no time, so I cooked up something that my son and I could do in an hour for free and remove if we didn't like it. I cut up a heavy-duty dirt-bike inner tube (that I wrecked in another fit of d-i-y ambition) and made some inserts to fill the open spaces in the torque mount. The idea was to get rid of as much as possible of the slop in the mount without making it stiffer. These inserts are strips cut from the tube, with a hole in the middle, which are inserted in the top of the mount like an upside-down U with the hole fitting over the vertical bushing to keep it in place. It works pretty darned well. I took some photos up to a point, but then we got into it, and got dish soap all over our hands putting it together, so I didn't document the entire job sorry. If I take it apart to add another layer of rubber, I'll post more photos. Here's what I got:
I went with 80A hardness, and filled an aftermarket torque rod (I couldnt afford the down time of taking off the oem one, filling it, and letting it cure). if youre concerned about nvh, you can always go with the 60a
Stiffer torque mount completely eliminates the rubber band effect. The flywheel is actually not heavy, that sluggish rev hang is caused by software that purposely delays on/off throttle response.
Stiffer torque mount completely eliminates the rubber band effect. The flywheel is actually not heavy, that sluggish rev hang is caused by software that purposely delays on/off throttle response.
Software running a car has its good and bad points. Being able to mess with the programming is one of the good points.
Raced Sat and Sunday at Spring Mountain with Porsche Club of America. Nice to run with the lambos, Z06s, and GT3s. Clearly I did not beat any of them. I installed my Ktuner tune on Sunday morning and shaved 5 seconds of Saturday's times. PB of 3:08 on a 3.4 mile course with 15 turns. Good times!!! I posted a more thorough write-up in the generic racing section from the home page: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/car-...-upcoming.html
Cheers, d
